Guest
I have a 4' fiberglass ramrod that I want to shorten . Can someone please tell me the best type of saw to use ? I'm guessing a hacksaw . :hmm: I've never had to cut fiberglass before . ::
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You need to get a very specialized fiberglass cutting tool, otherwise there's a high risk of angering the shop-trolls for not purchasing a new tool for each major (or minor) project.
I think Acme Tool and Supply has them on backorder, will be in maybe about 4 or 8 weeks.
Or just use any fine tooth sawblade and takes yer chances with them angry trolls.
vic
btw- wear a dust mask. Don't want that fiberglass dust in the lungs. Seriously. All kidding aside- It hurts worse than the fires of hell burning in there.
I think Acme Tool and Supply has them on backorder, will be in maybe about 4 or 8 weeks.
Or just use any fine tooth sawblade and takes yer chances with them angry trolls.
vic
btw- wear a dust mask. Don't want that fiberglass dust in the lungs. Seriously. All kidding aside- It hurts worse than the fires of hell burning in there.
If you have to do it often, Harbor Freight has a tiny little chop saw that I used to use for cutting fiberglass and carbon kite spars back when I was building kites. It's reasonably cheap ($20) and works well, and will satisfy even the most discriminating shop troll. See it here.
Of course, if this is a one time thing, a very fine toothed hack saw will do the trick. You'll also need some sandpaper or a file to clean up the edges. When you cut, don't go straight through in one action. Cut a little and rotate, cut a little more, and rotate again. Keep going until you've worked your way through the rod and you'll be less likely to split it.
Of course, if this is a one time thing, a very fine toothed hack saw will do the trick. You'll also need some sandpaper or a file to clean up the edges. When you cut, don't go straight through in one action. Cut a little and rotate, cut a little more, and rotate again. Keep going until you've worked your way through the rod and you'll be less likely to split it.
You can file a ring around it to shorten it. Something you may want to try before you do it though. Take your barrel from your stock, and in some place that it won't be seen, rub the fiberglas rod back and forth a few times, and see what happens. With a little elbow grease, and not too much time, you could cut the barrel in half. It's that abrasive. Then consider, do you REALLY want to put that in your bore?
:agree: Rick I agree 100% with you . Up here where I live there are quite a few boat shops that work exclusivly with fiberglass. That stuff is ABRASIVE, I wouldn't put it anywhere near my rifles. I think he should use the "Super Rod" it made of a poly material and is very barrel friendly. :m2c:
Soggy :front:
Agree with the "abrasive" aspects. Preferr wood myself, or stainless with a guide for range work.
However; to answer your question, mark it about 1/4" inch longer than wanted, cut with a fine tooth hack while rotating the rod into the blade all the way around until it parts in the center. Now grind the end to length by gringing on a slight angle from edge to center while rotating the rod between your fingers (same as cleaning a piece of threaded rod). This will leave a slightly raised section in the middle that you can leave or clean off (I leave it and slightly radius the edges).
I use these on "fish arrows". Be carefull like others have said. It wouldn't take long to wreck a good crown with the abrasiveness on a barrel.
However; to answer your question, mark it about 1/4" inch longer than wanted, cut with a fine tooth hack while rotating the rod into the blade all the way around until it parts in the center. Now grind the end to length by gringing on a slight angle from edge to center while rotating the rod between your fingers (same as cleaning a piece of threaded rod). This will leave a slightly raised section in the middle that you can leave or clean off (I leave it and slightly radius the edges).
I use these on "fish arrows". Be carefull like others have said. It wouldn't take long to wreck a good crown with the abrasiveness on a barrel.
Guest
Thank you all , for your help :master: :front:. I use a nylon bore guide with my fiberglass rods , the rod never touches the bore . I have a synthetic rod I got from TOTW and it is limp as a wet noodle :results: . I couldn't find a suitable range rod for my .32 cal. CVA "Squirrel Rifle" (for under $20) , so I went to Home Depot and was lucky to find a 5/16" straight grained dowel , made of Chinese mystery wood (it must have been the only one because I couldn't find another straight grained dowel in the bin) and it is working well . 
(I've noticed people look at me funny when I'm looking at one dowel after another and putting them back in the bin : :front:
(I've noticed people look at me funny when I'm looking at one dowel after another and putting them back in the bin : :front::crackup:
I hear you about the funny looks!
I've been known to go to 2 of the local hardware stores, set up my spine tester and go through boxes of shafting to pick out what I want for arrows to use with the stickbow.
Fortunately, the store owners are (sorta) friends of mine and don't mind (much). ::
Man's just got to do,, what a man's got to do!
I hear you about the funny looks!
I've been known to go to 2 of the local hardware stores, set up my spine tester and go through boxes of shafting to pick out what I want for arrows to use with the stickbow.
Fortunately, the store owners are (sorta) friends of mine and don't mind (much). ::
Man's just got to do,, what a man's got to do!
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