Cutting lead rings

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Yes, if the chambers are chamfered instead of square on top they will often not shear any lead off.
I have chamfered several of my cap-n-ball cylinders so they don't shave lead and can see no difference in accuracy. I did so because of irregularities on some of the chamber mouths I did not like. All the chambers were done on that particular cylinder to maintain uniformity.
I think I prefer it to cutting lead rings off the balls.
Also, I did not notice any more gas leakage or lead spitting after the chamber chamfers that I had some concern about. MD
 
Hi MD thanks for that :) so I have nothing to worry about then?
I was considering going up to .457 if the lack of ring was going to cause me issues.

Rick
 
Hi I am going to see if any of the guys up my club have any .457 balls I can try and see how the do and if I get the ring of lead from them and if so il sell my mould and get a .457 one instead :)

Rick
 
Hang onto the smaller sized mold until you have a chance to shoot 50 or so rounds of each size. You may prefer the smaller ball.

Many Klatch
 
Hi yes I shall do :)
on a plus side they are easy for me to load and with my weak hands its a plus :) so I may well keep hold of it any way :)

Rick
 
It sort of jars you the first time yo see it but chamfered chamber bores has been popular for a while now. They do serve the same function but in a different way, squeezing the ball to fit rather than shearing off some exterior. I've seen a couple guys who've done this and they get along fine with no chain-fires. They also have reamed out the chamber diameters to match the bore diameter which improves the accuracy. Too many of the replica Colts and Remingtons have chamber diameters as much as .005" to .010" smaller than the barrels's groove diameter...Uberti seems a worse offender at this than Pietta right now. Both methods work and are equally safe.
 
Hi thanks for the info :) my gun is a 1980's so was this done from the factory because the guy I got it from said he's done nothing to it?

Rick
 
I think if the balls are tight enough not to back out under full load recoil than you stand little to no chance of a chain fire that frankly I believe are almost always initiated from the nipple an improperly fitting caps, not the chamber mouth. This is especially true because of either a grease wad under the ball or a smear of grease over the ball that seals the chamber mouth. MD
 
Wes/Tex is spot-on here. The chamfered cylinder actually seals tighter because instead of shaving the excess off (lead ring) it squeezes (deforms) the ball for an extremely tight fit that would preclude most chainfires.This is why many competion shooters uniform ream then chamfer the chamber mouths.
 
I was about to make a post about this i have a couple that have the swagged edge and a few that dont.

I dont see any difference in accuracy but here is what i like. The swagged fit is cleaner IMO i find that when the chamber shaves a ring off i some times have bits of lead loose hanging around on the gun. Sometimes i can clean that ring away sometimes i find it jammed into the ramrod or it works its way down into the chamber. Ide prefer not to fight with this little bit of lead.

I use a 3/4" ball grinder in a drill motor to round the edge on my chambers. Then i clean them up with emry cloth.
 
Ricky, I saw a hint somewhere about making loading easier on a cap and ball pistol. Get a wooden handle meant to hold a file and drill the opening out so it fits over the loading lever. That will increase your leverage significantly while lowering the felt effort.

Many Klatch
 
Many Klatch said:
Ricky, I saw a hint somewhere about making loading easier on a cap and ball pistol. Get a wooden handle meant to hold a file and drill the opening out so it fits over the loading lever. That will increase your leverage significantly while lowering the felt effort.

Many Klatch
I don't like using a "cheater bar". Because you can then use excessive force and bend your rammer. Some of those are actually not very strong(for example a Lematt). Instead spend 15-20 buck for a dismounted loading tool. I like them for a couple of reasons. you can see into each chamber without squinting to see if you have the right stuff in each chamber, before the next step. Some people load all the powder, then the wads them the balls. some load each chamber completly before moving on to the next one. I find you have less of a chance missing a step when you can see the whole cylinder chamber mouths (havn't dry balled yet).
 
Thanks for all the info guys :) I can use the loading lever on the gun but does get painful after a few rounds which is why iv got a cylinder loading jig.
I like you prefer the lack of lead ring for that very reason if I miss some it will get caught in places it shouldn't and be awkward to get out! I did but a multiple set of tweezers for that reason to get any little bits that get taught.

Rick
 
Hi here is a pick of a ball I loaded with my cylinder jig and if you look closely to the top of the ball you can just make out the lead which has been pushed up instead of taking a ring of lead off.
cylinder.jpg
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Rick
 
Dang Ricky that ball is WAY down in there!

Did you ream the chambers on that cylinder?
 
Hi yes its a long way down because I got some 4mm brass rod today to punch out any double or duff loads, iv double loaded before :shocked2:
there was no powder or wad in it just the ball to see how easy it would come out and it was easier than I thought :)
No I didn't ream the chambers and the guy I got it from said he's done nothing to it and he's had it from new apparently.

Rick
 
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