cutting patches at muzzle?

[steelerzzz]

I hear alot about how some hardcore round ball shooters like to trim the patching material after the ball is seated just inside the muzzle..to ensure that the patching material is perfectly even around the ball. Would trimming the patches in a loading block accomplish the same thing?(saving time over trimming the patches in the field)

 

[Roy]

I imagine if you use a loading block that is :haha: :v

 

[2172]

I've done it that way. Don't much use a loading block, but have one of a good hardwood, made by a buddy, that is countersunk deep enough to let me do it...Hank

 

[CoyoteJoe]

I never buy or precut patches so when I fill a loading block I cut the patch the same as at the muzzle of the rifle. My block is not nearly so tight as the rifle muzzle so it takes a very light touch to avoid pulling the ball back out as I trim the cloth but a very sharp knife makes it possible.

 

[BrownBear]

I doubt that I qualify as hard core, but I sure qualify as cheap. I also demand high levels of performance from me and my gear.

Rattle all that in a box and I cut at the muzzle when I'm playing at being a range rat, then "cut at the muzzle" to load my block for hunting. It's so darned easy, works so well and is so cheap I can't convince myself to stop.

Cutting at the muzzle (or loading block) will teach you new meanings for sharp knives. When yours is sharp enough, it will do it easily with a single pass. Even a little dull and you'll get frustrated sawing away at your patch material.

Paste- or grease-type lubes rather than liquids work best for me for hunts when loading from blocks. I have confirmed it at the range, cuzz I always shoot from the block to start each range session. Haven't found a liquid yet that does as well as paste or grease after the balls have sat in a block for a week or two.

Here's a useful tip: Adjust the thickness of your loading block to match the caliber. The blocks work best if you seat the balls so they stick out the bottom a little. That just makes it easier to find the bore with the ball when you're in a hurry. You want the block thick enough so that when the ball is sticking out like that, the top of the ball is just below the top of the block so you can cut the patch in the right spot once the ball is seated. Turns out that if the block is the same thickness as ball diamter, it's just right for deep seating the ball and cutting the patch as I describe. I adjust block thickness using my bench-mount disc sander.

 

[nw_hunter]

I carry a loading block while hunting, but use precut patches in it.I just take the time to make sure they are centered. I would prob. lose a finger trying to cut them in a loading block.
********************************
Never forget that you are unique, like everyone
else :wink: .

 

[Claude Mathis]

Would trimming the patches in a loading block accomplish the same thing?

Yes.

 

[rafterob]

At the muzzle or in a loading block. the key for a loading block in this case is as Hank says,deep enough so the ball does not protrude from the block-inhibiting the ability to cut the fabric above the ball. I have never heard anyone say they were doing it to get the patch perfectly shaped to the ball/muzzle. Usually because it is the cheapest and least time consuming way to do your own patches. Like many, I have discovered I can cut a square patch off of my strip before starting the ball and the square shape doesn't affect shooting accuracy one bit.

 

[silverfox]

I used to use commercial patches. The last 2 years I have cut at the muzzle, works fine and don't get old bad patches.
I use a loading block in the field. My block has a 1/8" muzzle size cut out on one side. I load my ball and patch from the other side which is flat. If I get the block the right thickness the patched ball will stick out into the cut out but not past the edge of the block. Then when I load the cutout centers the muzzle and the ball centers the barrel makes it fast and accurate when loading from the block. It looks backward but it works great. Your block should be thick enough that when you cut your patch the ball is about 1/8" deep.Your block should be 1/8" larger than the diameter of your ball. On .32 and .36 you may have to use 1/16". Hope this helps
Fox :hatsoff:

 

[roundball]

Cutting at the muzzle (or loading block) will teach you new meanings for sharp knives. When yours is sharp enough, it will do it easily with a single pass.

Fingers included if not careful... :wink:

 

[roundball]

"...Like many, I have discovered I can cut a square patch off of my strip before starting the ball and the square shape doesn't affect shooting accuracy one bit..."

Agree...but I take it the last final step...and have hundreds of them precut ahead of time :grin:

 

[tg]

I'll toss in another vote for the square patches I find they work as well a round ones or ones cur at the muzzle.

 

[bajabuc]

Oh gawd...I hate to brag...no I don't. Since I've never taken more than one shot per deer per season and I use a "chew strip" and cut at the muzzle, I'd have to say cut that puppy. I don't know what I'd do if I missed....probably go home.

 

[shmrck1]

Would trimming the patches in a loading block accomplish the same thing?

Done correctly,I can't imagine why not.IMO
snake-eyes :hmm:

 

[Claude Mathis]

I'll toss in another vote for the square patches I find they work as well a round ones or ones cur at the muzzle.

I agree. Besides, patches cut at the muzzle are square (with rounded corners). :wink:

Cut the patch in your loading block, then push it out and look at it.

 

[tg]

"Cut the patch in your loading block, then push it out and look at it"

Most seem to ignore this simple test of geometry, it caught my eye a long time ago when checking muzzle cut pathces for burn out, cuts or bad edges, some things is so simple they is funny.. :redface: