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Cutting patches at the Muzzle

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CraigFl

32 Cal.
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I'm going out to the range solo this morning to do some shooting. A friend of mine showed me the ropes when I first got my rifle. He had a tool that he use with a mallet to seat the patch and ball before cutting. Should I use my short starter or should I use a rubber mallet and seat it flush with the barrel. Cant remember how far down the ball was before cutting.
 
I seat the ball just below the muzzle and cut as close to the muzzle as I can get. You don't need any extra fabric. Hank
 
I seat the ball a smidge below the muzzle - so the knife doesn't contact the ball. I do this with the rounded wooden part of a short starter. There is just enough rounded curve on the starter to get the ball just below the muzzle.
 
usually that is what the "Short Starter" is for. The "usually" have a shaft about 4" long AND a small button on the knob, which is to start the patched ball into the muzzle to just below the crown.
This first step completed, you then cut the patch, then using the longer shaft, get that down your barrel, then use the ram rod or range rod to finish!

Be certain to have some band aids and/or some extra patch material, as I have been witness to more than a handful of folks that dont yet have the technique perfected!
 
One thing you'll learn:

Cutting patches at the muzzle will teach you what "sharp" means. It's best for me if I can cut the patch with a single pass of the knife-- no sawing.

Lots of knives you think are sharp simply aren't sharp enough to do that. And those that are sharp enough for the job at first, may not stay that way long.

Need an excuse for a new knife?

You just found it! :thumbsup:
 
brett sr said:
Be certain to have some band aids and/or some extra patch material, as I have been witness to more than a handful of folks that dont yet have the technique perfected!

You ain't talking about ME, are you Brett? It was only that one time that I sliced my finger open... :grin:

When I cut at the muzzle, I pretty much do what Brett says. Just make sure that you use the small button to seat the ball just below the muzzle and not the longer piece, or you'll have a lot of extra fabric down the barrel. Been there, done that, though I can't remember if that was before or after I sliced my finger... :hmm:

Oh one other thing, a bit of patching material makes a good makeshift bandage when you're out on the trail. :haha:

Scott
 
41Aeronca said:
Oh one other thing, a bit of patching material makes a good makeshift bandage when you're out on the trail. :haha:
True statement there ! ! ! That's why I use unlubed patches and carry at least 1 extra strip in my shooting bag. BTDT
 
41Aeronca said:
brett sr said:
Be certain to have some band aids and/or some extra patch material, as I have been witness to more than a handful of folks that dont yet have the technique perfected!

You ain't talking about ME, are you Brett? It was only that one time that I sliced my finger open... :grin:

When I cut at the muzzle, I pretty much do what Brett says. Just make sure that you use the small button to seat the ball just below the muzzle and not the longer piece, or you'll have a lot of extra fabric down the barrel. Been there, done that, though I can't remember if that was before or after I sliced my finger... :hmm:

Oh one other thing, a bit of patching material makes a good makeshift bandage when you're out on the trail. :haha:

Scott

Scott, Mes think you are chapter 3 or 4 in my book. You know the one...
"Brett is perfect" and the follow up book I wrote..."Ain't dryballed yet" :rotf: :blah:

I've had oil in my bore, left my rods at home, left my guns at home, and a plethora of other things!
Heck, I've even cut my self patching at the muzzle, and that was just getting the knife out of the scabbard!

...Back to the topic,
Have a sharp knife, cut away from yourself and have your other hand and digits well below the line of "slice"!
 
I usually cut just above the muzzle. The extra cloth does no harm, and if the ball isn't seated all the way, if you cut flush you can nick a piece of the ball off and that will affect it's flight.
 
If you cut a piece of the ball off that's large enough to effect the balls flight maybe you shouldn't be allowed out with a knife, you might cut off something important. :shake: :haha:
 
I usually just choke up on the rammer so only an inch or so is below my hand and short-start with that. My L.C.Rice barrel has a "medium radius crown" and I can thumb start the patched balls to flush with a forehead vein-popping push if I hold my tongue just right.
 
Some rifles/loads seem to be sensitive to weave direction, some don't. If the patch material doesn't have a visible pattern then which way you lay the strip across the muzzle gives an indexing reference.
 
Really??? I didn't know that! :idunno:

I believe that we had a discussion some time ago about weave direction, here, and the consensus was that the weave pattern, or direction made NO difference at all.

That doesn't mean that we were right, of course. If you have some before and after targets you might show us, It would be of interest to lots of members here. :hmm: :thumbsup:
 
paulvallandigham said:
Really??? I didn't know that! :idunno:

I believe that we had a discussion some time ago about weave direction, here, and the consensus was that the weave pattern, or direction made NO difference at all.

It doesn't make a difference.

Perhaps we need a "Blinded by Science" category? :haha:

I suppose the amount of stripes on your patch could make a difference too? More stripes = more weight (dye).
 
Actually it does make a difference Carl!

I tried to use an old striped quilt my wife made, and couldn't get the durn thing down the barrel with a shop hammer :shocked2:
 
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