CVA Bore Conditioner and Patch Lube

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78CJ

32 Cal.
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I have a bottle of this that I bought 10 years ago when I bought my Bobcat. Up till now I have used the 385 Great Plains. I now want to get down to using a PRB for hunting. I am going to get some pillow ticking today and have a pile of .490 RB's.

Will this Bore conditioner/patch lube be and adequate start or will I be wasting my time. I am not too interested at this point in cooking a lube so if the CVA stuff is a waste of time what (besides spit) would be the simplest method to start?

Thanks

Ryan
 
Lard, crisco, bear fat, bore butter, balistol, what ever you got handy. That CVA stuff will be fine, long as it hasn't gone rancid (stinky is ok if you can stand it) :grin: . Anything that will promote lubrication to seat the RB and patch on the powder. There will be some weird combinations, but you will find one you like. Oh, one thing, must be organic based.....petroleum products like vaseline don't mix well with BP. :v
 
I use olive oil. works great! put some patches in a sidlock bag sprinkle in some olive oil. thats it... just want the patches damp not soked.
 
You're in cold country. If you hunt when it's really cold you can't do better than Mink Oil. You can get it at TOW. It's great all the time, but really shines in cold weather.

Usually when someone trys it they never switch from it. It's cheap too.

Mink Oil is natural, and can't be duplicating with man made stuff.


Don't let the name fool you. Mink Oil is a paste.
 
Simplest way is to start with olive oil, or use Crisco if OO is too runny for you. To stiffen either up, just add a little beeswax to warm oil, just don't heat it. Haven't tried mink oil yet but from what folks say it must be pretty good. Just understand that there is no point in conditioning or seasoning modern steel, what you have is for lubing the patch only.
 
Crisco, lard, castor oil, olive oil, peanut oil, soy bean oil, sperm whale oil, etc. all work well as a patch lube. The thinner oils and even the lard can be made less fluid by mixing with bees wax. I use a mixture of 20% bewax 80% lard in warm weather pure lard below freezing. :hmm:
 
If the lube is "Oily" to your fingers, when you rub some between your fingers and thumb, it will work. I don't recall now what CVA said about using that stuff to " condition" a barrel, but if you have not shot the gun in a while, FIRST flush whatever is in the barrel out using alcohol. Then, before loading the first powder charge down the barrel, run a LIGHTLY oiled cleaning patch down the barrel to lube the steel a bit. Don't run the patch All the way down the barrel: Stop it at least 1 inch above the "bottom", so that the oil won't foul your powder charge. If you are not sure how much oil you have put down the barrel, run a DRY patch down to soak up any "extra" oil, before pouring the powder down.

The thin coating of oil will make it easier to run your PRB down the barrel, and will insure that the fouling in the barrel after you fire that shot remains soft, no matter the humidity, for easier cleaning.

After you do this process a few dozen times, you will Learn what "Lightly oiled" means, and will be able to skip the step needing to run a dry patch down the barrel to remove "extra" oil.

I found that doing this little technique allowed my first shot to shoot to the same POI as the next shots. :thumbsup:
 
Are you talking about liquid or paste? I bought a tube of the paste a few years back and don't like it at all. I had been using the old style "Leheigh Valley Lube" for years and could shoot all day without cleaning, and when I did clean, my bore was hardly needing it. With the CVA lube, I could hardly seat the ball after 3 shots without cleaning, left a gummy mess.
Now I usually use Hoppes Black Powder solvent for a patch lube, almost as good as the old Leheigh Vally stuff (no longer made).
I stuff 20 or so patches in an old film canister and pour a little lube on top, handy to carry pre-lubed patches that way, and doesn't leak out in my bag.
 
I just got done washing my pillow ticking and I am pretty excited about trying it out, after reading a few threads about reading patches it is now clear to me that any of the patches I have tried in the past have been too thin. I will start with the CVA stuff for now and report back.

Thanks
Ryan
 
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