CVA flint conversion

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mr.flintlock

40 Cal.
Joined
Feb 12, 2010
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I bought this CVA .54 caliber mountain rifle kit in 1980. I put many deer and hogs in the freezer with it over the years. I retired it in 1996 and started hunting with flintlock rifles exclusively. I have toyed with the idea of converting it to flint for a while now. My wife bought me an L&R drop in flintlock for Christmas. Here it is installed and working. Hope the movie clip works. Have had some problems getting it to play.
 
Colorado, It is pretty fast. I am looking forward to hunting with this old friend again. I paid $112. for the kit in 1980 and lucked up and got a curly maple st ock.
 
I have three CVA rifles I built around the same timeframe as yours. One is already a flintlock but I've got a cap lock big bore mountain rifles in .58 cal that I've often thought about converting. I'm assuming the lock lined up with the hole ok? And you must need to drill and tap for the touch hole liner.
Very nice rifle by the way! I wasn't so lucky to get as nice a piece of wood as you did!

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I still maintain that the CVA mountain rifle, even made in Spain, was the best production rifle ever made for round ball hunting.
 
I've not shot mine (percussion 1st year kit) in many years. This thread prompted me to drag it out of the cabinet. It really hangs well, fit me well, and the triggers are a treat. I'm gonna order the L&R replacement lock and convert mine to flint!
 
Would be curious as to how well the lockplate fits in the stock when it arrives. Had gaps between the lockplate and factory cutout with a RPL lock in a GPR stock. Have two TC candidates for a L&R RPL lock but hesitate because of fit concerns.
 
What did you do to convert this gun to flint? I have a 54 cal Mtn rifle that I am toying with this very idea. RIght now, just trying to figure out how I want to refinish the stock and metal parts. I like the color of this stock, but hate the glossy finish on it. Did you have to plug the drum hole? re-drill for another flash channel? Was there any wood that needed to be removed from the lock mortise for the new lock? Details please sir.
 
The drum will be cut or milled off flush with the side of the barrel. A liner will be installed in place of the drum, and lock may or may need a bit of inletting.
 
what about removing the drum and replacing with a metric bolt that is drilled out for the touch hole?
 
fraungie said:
what about removing the drum and replacing with a metric bolt that is drilled out for the touch hole?
The million dollar question would be;
Is the thread size a standard Metric thread?
And, can you remove the drum without causing internal damage........

Most importantly....removing and replacing with a bolt would leave a void in the breech...


CVA1.jpg
 
It could leave a void or not, depending on how far the bolt was screwed into the breech plug.

The problem with just using a metric bolt would be, figuring out where the hole that aligns with the bore should be drilled into the bolt and then drilling it without frinkeling up the external threads on the bolt.
 
fraungie said:
what about removing the drum and replacing with a metric bolt that is drilled out for the touch hole?
Mean like this? It's been done,, 10 x 1.25mm thread.

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But like the guy's warn ya,, it's about finding the right place for the flash hole as it needed for lock/pan position, length of the bolt and position to the breech.
Takes a bit more thought then Bubba uses to hack off a bolt and drill a hole.
All warranty null and void,, are you going to sell the rifle to someone else? Or hand it off to a Grandchild?
 
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