CVA Kentucky.45

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I have one of those. Bought it from JCPenneys in 1976 as a kit gun. I wanted to go pa muzzleloader hunting, only to find out that I couldn't use it because it was percussion and at that time it wasn't considered as a primitive weapon. And look at how things are today. However it is fairly accurate.
 
I am not an expert on these old ML's but that stock (2 piece) reminds me of the old Traditions rifles, lots of them came in a 1:48 in a .45 cal. I have a FIE that is 1:48 .45 cal out of the same Companies over in Spain
 
If you're going to refinish, I'd take the time to do some wood removal and stock shaping, thin down and shape the forend at least. Those things can be great shooters!
 
I am not an expert on these old ML's but that stock (2 piece) reminds me of the old Traditions rifles, lots of them came in a 1:48 in a .45 cal. I have a FIE that is 1:48 .45 cal out of the same Companies over in Spain

The CVAs pre-date the Traditions rifles that look the same. Essentially, when CVA got out of the sidelock market, Traditions took over as the primary importer for these guns.
 
Checked the tang bolt from my traditions Kentucky, when fully seated it actually sticks out about 1/8 inch through the trigger base.
 
That was my first rifle as well! 1972 era. TACK DRIVER FER SURE!

I will agree with the dont mess with the rifle crowd. You have a $150.00 rifle. Spend $50.00 and 20 hours and you have a $150.00 rifle. (assuming its found a permanent home). Put a $4K stereo in yer Ford Pinto and yer cool, still driving a Ford Pinto though?

SHOOT AND REPORT (with pictures). Great deal BTW
 
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100% Tack driver. I was given one a couple year ago and it quickly became my main match gun. After a couple years, I finally took it out of service to clean it up. It was originally slapped together as a quick kit build in the 80s was the story it came to me with. If you can avoid it at all.. do not mess with the bolster... I did, and it works.. but it came at a cost of PITA cleaning after usage due to exposed thread left from the original bolster design.

Final cleanup video reveal below:

 
As long as you have it stripped and taken apart you could shorten the forearm several inches (where the entry pipe goes into the stock and thin and round it full length as well. I don't know why on reproduction guns they make the forearm so long. It can make the rifle so much slimmer and sleeker just by removing a little extra wood.
 
Something with a medium brown and then Minwax Gunstock (thats a color not a specific product) over it will give a brown/reddish tint.
 

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