CVA Kentucky

[Buck Buster]

Just bought a .45 CVA Kentucky thru the internet, rifle barrel does not use wedge pins to remove it. Took the two screws out of side of stock where wedges normally are located, barrel won't budge. Any suggestions on taking it apart?

 

Buck

Kentuckys dont use "wedges"!!

If the barrel aint held in the barrel channel with "pins"___ then check the ramrod channel for "screws" (INCLUDEN THE "END CAP" IF IT HAS ONE) also be sure to unscrew the "tang bolt" at the rear of the barrel!!

If you removed screws from the "side" of yore stock___ they were probly the "lock bolts"_ what holds the "lock" in place!!

Once you have removed the barrel from the stock__ you will know "which screws" to remove next time you wish to dismantle yore rifle!!

 

[musketman]

"Any suggestions on taking it apart?"
A 1/2 pound charge of FFFg down the ramrod hole ought to remove that barrel for good...

Just joking...

I have also seen a barrel screw located from underneath the trigger guard, just in case it still holds fast after all bolts have been removed...

And remember: There is very little difference in apearence between slow and fast burning fuses.

 

[Zonie]

As RollingB mentioned Kentucky style rifles usually have several small pins which pass thru the stock forarm and under the barrel where they pass thru the barrel keys or tabs.
Some Spanish and Italian guns use screws which (as was mentioned) are put in from the bottom of the stock or muzzle cap.
At the rear of the barrel is the tang screw. This passes thru the tang of the barrel, down thru the stock, often screwing into the trigger plate or the trigger guard.
With these removed, the barrel should lift out of the stock fairly easily.
Do not try to pry it out. If it doesn't want to come out, there is probably a pin or screw you didn't notice.

 

[Don]

I have a CVA Kentucky in .50 I built from a kit. In mine the barrel can be removed by removing the screws that are located in the ramrod thimbles under the fore stock. There should be a hole in the thimbles by which you can access the screws. Be careful though, the screws are small and easily lost. When you want to reassemble just line up the thimbles with the screw holes and reattach. Pretty simple but not as convenient as a half stock with barrel wedges. Good luck.

Don

 

Remove the lock,this will free the drum from the lock plate. Remove the tang screw completely.(ya might have to pull the tang screw with a pliers after the threads leave the trigger plate,that beechwood does react with iron) Pull the butt section back and slightly down to seperate the stock halves,(just wiggle and pull,it'll come)
Now that the stock halves are seperated,there are 2 pins holding the barrel to the front section and 2 screws in the nose cap,just find something to use as a "drift punch" and tap out the pins,go slow cause sometimes those pins can bring wood out with'm (hint,those pins are seldom drilled straight!) That's it,,simple..

p.s. to get the trigger out just re-insert the tang screw so it's fully threaded in the trigger(so not to damage the threads) and tap on it to force the trigger down. Carefull with that trigger guard,they like to snap at that center screw! and that'll piss ya right off.