Cva Lock Maslin spring

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George91946

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Does the spring from an L and R Maslin lock fit in a Cva percussion lock? My friend was given a non working gun. After cocking it, and pulling the trigger, it stuck in the half-cock position. I pulled the lock and after heating the epoxy out of the screws, disassembled the lock and found a seriously abused tumbler, and detente and sear. After about 4 hours of honing these parts, I got it to work smoothly. But it seems weak. Spring is not as springy as I'd like. The gun often requires 2 trigger pulls to fire the percussion cap. I filed the circumference of the nipple, and that helped, but did not solve the problem. I'm suspecting a weak mainspring. The owner is not able to get the entire lock replaced. So without purchasing the entire L and R lock would a mainspring from that lock fit the Cva lock?

Thanks

Lisle George
 
Unless the main spring is actually cracked I doubt that it is the problem. I would recomend you keep working on the nipple. It should have a sharp edge like a knife and the cap should fit solid on the nipple. Most guns that require two hammer falls to set off the cap have oversised , or flat toped nipples. :idunno:
 
I can't help you, but the CVAs I have had had terribly weak springs.
 
Hi I will go with Ohioramrod. One of the first things you will hear about CVA is get rid of the factory nipples. I never had your problem until a new old stock rifle I took to the range. It also had the habit of not fireing on the first hammer fall but always on the second. A new nipple is on the way that I hope corrects the problem. The stock nipple looks more like a fence post with a pencil hole in the middle of it. A lot of flat area like Ohio was talking about. The caps fit loosely so it is not a problem of the first strike seating the cap and the second fireing it.
Good luck and work on the nipple.
Fox :hatsoff:
 
not fireing on the first hammer fall but always on the second.

This is often caused but having a nipple and caps which are not compatible. Some of each are straight walled and some are tapered. IIRC, the CVA had a sharp taper and most caps are straight walled. What is happening is that the first strike of the hammer is swaging the cap to fit correctly and the second sets off the charge.

The right answer is to buy components that work together, but an expedient measure is to turn the tip of the nipple (with a drill and file) to accept caps that you can purchase.

Unless there has been a change in design, I do not think that L&R springs will work in the original CVA lock. When I spoke with Bill, he said that their locks were only designed to fit in the CVA mortis and not actual copies. But you can call him - he is a very helpful fellow.

L&R Lock

While on the topic of CVA locks, these often have poorly heat treated parts. The plates are too soft which causes their holes wallow out with use and the springs do not hold up well at all over time. You might try to learn how to heat treat these properly after correcting their shape a bit. (The late Kit Ravenshear put out a book on heat treating springs called Improvised V Springs - saw a copy available from Dixon's a week ago)

If it were my gun, I try the replacement and/or reshaping of the nipple as the simplest and cheapest route. Failing that, I would save up and buy an RPL from L&R at some point.

CS
 
Ampco nipple cured mine from doing that,I beleive Remington caps helped also as I remember,you could also work the nipple down so the cap just bottoms out on it,after I did mine I had no further issues
 
Call Deer Creek Products 765-525-6181 they don't have a website but they are the only ones I know of that carry any CVA parts along with Mowrey and Hopkins & Allen.
 

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