CVA lock problems

[ParsonBart]

Hi, All!

I just received a CVA Mountain Rifle in the mail that I purchased from a member here on the forum.

I took it out this morning to shoot it and maybe test some loads. I found two problems immediately.

1) it only fires the cap about every third pull of the trigger. The trigger is very smooth, by the way, and consistent.

2) the hammer bounces back to half cock every time it does fire.

I know the number one cause is an eroded nipple, but I only have Musket caps, so I put a brand new nipple on it before I took it out.

I also used 50 grains of 2f with a .490 ball to start.

I thought I read somewhere (cannot find the article) that CVA locks have weak springs. What do I need to do to fix this?

 

[springfield art]

There seem to be lots of guys on here with lots of info on them...they seem to be a popular rifle...I'm sure you'll get help!

 

[kyron4]

Sounds like the main spring is weak. Replacements are available for about $10.

 

[JeeeperBillMI]

Hi, All!

I just received a CVA Mountain Rifle in the mail that I purchased from a member here on the forum.

I took it out this morning to shoot it and maybe test some loads. I found two problems immediately.

1) it only fires the cap about every third pull of the trigger. The trigger is very smooth, by the way, and consistent.

2) the hammer bounces back to half cock every time it does fire.

I know the number one cause is an eroded nipple, but I only have Musket caps, so I put a brand new nipple on it before I took it out.

I also used 50 grains of 2f with a .490 ball to start.

I thought I read somewhere (cannot find the article) that CVA locks have weak springs. What do I need to do to fix this?

Check that the lock bolts are not over-torqued pulling the lock plate causing it to bend. I worked on a CVA that was monkeyed with prior to me where someone had removed some wood from the lock mortise area. The lock was pulled so tight by the screws it would bend the whole plate and the main spring was contacting the underside chamfer of the barrel. I used a small washer under the lock plate at the front screw to bring the lock away from the barrel eliminating the main spring being under and constrained by the barrel. That allowed the full spring action to act on the tumbler and hammer. I also didn’t torque the lock screws down like King Kong. It is just something I experienced on a CVA; yours may be different.

 

[ParsonBart]

Sounds like the main spring is weak. Replacements are available for about $10.

I was wondering if that was the best course of action, or if I should find a better quality lock.

 

[ParsonBart]

Check that the lock bolts are not over-torqued pulling the lock plate causing it to bend. I worked on a CVA that was monkeyed with prior to me where someone had removed some wood from the lock mortise area. The lock was pulled so tight by the screws it would bend the whole plate and the main spring was contacting the underside chamfer of the barrel. I used a small washer under the lock plate at the front screw to bring the lock away from the barrel eliminating the main spring being under and constrained by the barrel. That allowed the full spring action to act on the tumbler and hammer. I also didn’t torque the lock screws down like King Kong. It is just something I experienced on a CVA; yours may be different.

Thanks for that info. I was very careful not to overtighten. There does not appear to be any flex in the plate.

 

[akroguy]

If you put on a musket cap nipple, it is important that the hammer face has a good, centered strike onto the nipple. Not all hammer face/nipple alignments are readily suited for going to the larger cap. Some guns line up fine, others not so much. My Lyman GPR has a musket nipple on it and the hammer strikes it nicely centered. The hammer face must cleanly strike the cap without binding or impediment to it's downward motion.