CVA Percussion how expensive to convert to Flintlock?
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dragnetbill
36 Cal.
In my experience it is very hard to sell (easily) a CVA Kentucky for more than $125 no matter how nice it is or which ignition system it has. If by chance you had all the parts you would need at no cost and then valued your time at $0 per hour you could complete the job and say that it is worth it. Otherwise, in my opinion, it would not be worth it.
zimmerstutzen
70 Cal.
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If it is the very early model with the bolster, just for get it, not worth even thinking about. The later ones with the drum and nipple are relatively easy to switch, but require a little bit of metal work. The breech system was designed to be very strong, but trying to remove the parts in the wrong order will destroy the barrel. The drum is cross threaded through the barrel wall into the breech plug. Then an opening from the bore into the drum was drilled with a long drill from the muzzle. For that reason, taking it apart and being able to return everything to it's original position is difficult even for some experienced gun smiths.
The other way, easiest for most, is to cut the drum flush with the barrel and then drill and tap the stub of the drum in the barrel with a touch hole liner. install a flint lock and go shoot. The problem with this method, requires a little finessing to get the touch hole at the proper elevation to the pan. At one time, I bought several of those Spanish Maslin style flint locks for $20 a piece new. Those days are long over. If you can get one from Deer Creek new, that is the way to go. As dragetbill said, the gun will still be worth very little. However, for folks who are required to have flintlock ignition, like Pennsylvania's three week Flint only season after Christmas, it can be the cheapest way to get a flintlock rifle. In any other state, I would see little reason.
The other way, easiest for most, is to cut the drum flush with the barrel and then drill and tap the stub of the drum in the barrel with a touch hole liner. install a flint lock and go shoot. The problem with this method, requires a little finessing to get the touch hole at the proper elevation to the pan. At one time, I bought several of those Spanish Maslin style flint locks for $20 a piece new. Those days are long over. If you can get one from Deer Creek new, that is the way to go. As dragetbill said, the gun will still be worth very little. However, for folks who are required to have flintlock ignition, like Pennsylvania's three week Flint only season after Christmas, it can be the cheapest way to get a flintlock rifle. In any other state, I would see little reason.
zimmerstutzen,
Since I'm a complete newbie to Muzzle loading, and Black powder in general, can you break what you just said down in a bit simpler terms please? I understand the gist, but as to how to tell if it has a bolster or drum and nipple, I have no idea. I can get this for under a hundred, and thought it might make a decent starter into BP, but as a resident of Kaint-tuck-ee, I'd really rather have the flint.
Thanks for your patience.
Since I'm a complete newbie to Muzzle loading, and Black powder in general, can you break what you just said down in a bit simpler terms please? I understand the gist, but as to how to tell if it has a bolster or drum and nipple, I have no idea. I can get this for under a hundred, and thought it might make a decent starter into BP, but as a resident of Kaint-tuck-ee, I'd really rather have the flint.
Thanks for your patience.
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
Go buy yourself a quality flint gun and leave the CVA the way it is.
You can get a barrel from Ebay or Deer Creek and will pay around $105. Then an L&R flintlock is $185. Really you're just recycling your old stock. The "conversion" you mentioned will still require the lock. A CVA lock that may or may not work reliably can be obtained for about $85. The L&R is $100 more. I have seen a newer model with the drum cut off and a touch-hole liner added and the hole lined up nicely. I have also viewed and discussed an older one where the bolster was removed and a threaded insert was fashioned to create a channel and the exposed end of that insert was threaded for a touch hole liner. In both cases the consensus was that it was a lot of work and little return on investment. If you have the time, patience and skill and can afford to lose the barrel if something catastrophic occurs I would encourage giving it a try. If you self-assess and determine you do not have proper tools or skills then getting a new barrel and lock would be more efficient and still a lot less costly than any other used flintlock you could buy. The barrels sell easily on Ebay in the $50 range (and up) and the lock will bring $30 (and up). Look at your cost and subtract what you can get for your current parts and it really isn't that much out-of-pocket. Buying CVA parts from Deer Creek you're spending $190. Selling your percussion parts on Ebay you are making half back - so you have a flintlock for an $80 investment and some computer time.
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