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CVA Philadelphia Derringer

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Joined
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Some time ago, I picked up a CVA Philadelphia Derringer at a yard sale for $20 or $25 -I forget which. The trigger on it proved to be so stiff as to render the pistol unshootable. I set it aside till I could get around to repairing it. That happened yesterday.

What I found was someone had, in the past, added a small washer to the lock workings, which was causing part of the lock to flex, and throwing off the geometry of the lock. I removed the washer, and reassembled the lock. That was all it took. The trigger is still heavy, but much better than it was.

Why the heck would someone add a washer to the lock?

The red circle is the screw the washer was under...

derringer%20lock_zpsbhiwhbjp.jpg




The pistol...


MA3V6044-small_zpsb6d5a409.jpg
 
The Philadelphia Derringer must be the least expensive blackpowder gun of modern time, mine was 35.00..neat thing about these little pistols is that every one i've seen appears to be unfired. Was a darned popular Christmas present in kit form back in the day i guess and seems most were assembled to one extent or another and tossed in a drawer..only signs of use on mine was a flattened nipple from a bunch of dry firing.

I noticed too that all my low end cva\jukar pistols have horrible rifling in them, chatter marks from end to end. Not sure if this is coincidence or not but figured they used rifle barrel 2nds for making their pistol barrels. Since they are not target guns anyways it doesn't matter but just something i noticed.

I know these pistols are considered kinda lowly by some but i really like mine (and yours) :thumbsup: Glad you got it worked out.
 
I still have one of those kits. I bought it in May 1979. Life got in the way and I never put the thing together. I just took the lock out of the kit's box and looked at the back. Mine does not have a washer. I noted that the sear in your lock is slightly thinner than mine. At full cock, the bar on mine hangs down below the bottom of the lock plate slightly.

I held the lock up to the light and noticed some pretty big gaps with light coming through, between the tumbler, sear and lock plate when the lock is not cocked. I slowly cocked the hammer and I could easily see both sear and tumbler flex toward the lock plate. This closed the gaps. When the hammer was in full cock position both of the moving parts were flush against the plate. The plate didn't flex, the moving parts did. The tumbler has scored some deep grooves into the lock plate.

Maybe your lock had the washer installed to eliminate any rocking type motion between the parts. :idunno:
 
I guess mine flexes because it is a cheaper version than yours. The sales slip is still in the box... $19.97. You must have the Cadillac model at $20.00. :rotf:
 
I have had a couple of those pistols. Sold them off after completing/repairing them.

I didn't like the way they felt in hand and during the firing sequence. Just felt like it could leap out of my hand. Never did, but the feeling was all off.
I had to be 15 feet or closer to hit the target. Never hit the x right on mark. Not a pistol I would care to bet my life on.
 
I shot my brother's derringer several years ago. On a dare, I was able to hit a 12-14" dia steel plate at 125 yards with the derringer. It only took me a couple of shots, maybe two or three. But it took the ball almost three days to reach the target. :rotf:
 
I had one, back when they were cheap, now the cost is insane. It was ok, I had some fun but wouldn't buy another unless is was $20-30.00 and in decent shape.
 
I would be happy to find a derringer lock. Just happen to have a piece of .50 barrel long enough to make 2 of them.
 
No doubt. The beauty of the original Philadelphia is that it works and was so inexpensive. At 200.00 for a kit it becomes a turn off.

Kinda neat though they're still out there available after 40 years of production.
 
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