cylinder base pin lube

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CaptainKirk said:
Ted, I once shot my brand-new 5.5" Remmy about 100 rounds without removing and re-lubing the pin. It spun just fine, but on getting it home I had to knock the pin forward with a drift punch (after disassembling and removing the hammer). I learned it is much easier...no matter WHAT pin lube you use....to simply pop the cylinder out, wipe it off, and re-lube before recharging the cylinder every dozen shots or so. It only takes a second, and you can shoot all day without seizing a pin.

What powder were you using? was it a hot day?

What ive found is when its hot everything is thin and seems to work fine but when it cools it gets sticky or it expands or something and binds up.

Ive had that same exact experience though with having to pound the cylinder pin out on the Remington because it just jams up so tight.

What i did for a while when i first started i was scared of embers in the chambers so what i did was to bring more then one gun. Ide shoot one and let it sit and cool so that incase there was any embers in the chambers i was letting them go out as i shot the other guns. I think this gave the one i just shot to much time to cool and bind up.

I found if you keep the cylinder moving and keep working it after you shoot it you can work the stuff out a little.

I started to clean the pin, chambers and barrel after every 6 shots anyway i found my shots were more accurate when the barrel was cleaned out anyway.

I found with a stock pietta before i reamed it the accuracy suffered the more the fouling built up in the chambers. They get smaller and smaller the dirtier they get.
 
BowerR64 said:
What powder were you using? was it a hot day?

Sorry; should have specified. Pyrodex P;30gr loads, lubed wad over powder with a cherry on top (.454RB)This was last June; temps in the mid-'70s by noon.
 
wow pyrodex is what i had the worst luck with.

Im starting to think my powder is old. Ive since bought 4 new pounds of pyrodex, T7 and swiss maybe that is my problem.
 

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