Cylinder problem.....depth of nipples.

[TNHillbilly]

I tried test firing a new pistol with no load, only caps. It was driving me nuts, looking at numerous options, and using candle soot thinking all kinds of potential problems. One cylinder would fire, the rest wouldn't. I finally looked at the 'working' chamber and it became obvious! The nipple was not screwed in as far as the rest! I have to make a wrench small enough to work here but the question is: what if? If I back the others out a bit, will they be too loose? How do I get the right depth......Loctite? Any thoughts on this?

 

[denster]

Most likely the problem relates to caps that don't fit well on the nipples. It would be most unlikely that all six nipple holes would be drilled too deep. I would check that first. Is this a new pistol or just new to you? Whaqt brand and type is it?

 

[Pete Gaimari]

Factory nipples are all over the place in size. I always replace mine with Treso nipples. They're stainless steel, very consistent in size, and have a smaller hole which gives a stronger flame, and doesn't blow the caps off the nipples as bad. (if at all)

Plus Remington #10 caps fit perfect.

What gun do you have?

 

[TNHillbilly]

One of the little Uberti 5 shot Colt 1862 Police. I made a wrench small enough to fit the nipples and found they where mostly loose. Your correct the no 10 Remington caps don't seem to fit properly and blow apart.

 

[brubincam]

-----I used to have a 51 navy by FIE--- nipples had washers under each one----- :idunno:

 

[TNHillbilly]

Aha! Washers....I think that's the solution! If I screw the nipples in snug they're too deep for the hammer to 'anvil' the nipple. I think it's either file down the recoil shield, or add the washers..think I'll try that first. Thanks! Bill :thumbsup:

 

[denster]

The hammer shouldn't "anvil" the nipple. With the hammer full down it should miss striking the nipple by around .005 give or take a thou or two. With a cap that fully seats on the nipple, depending on brand, the cap will be between .030 and .035 taller than the nipple without cap.
With Uberti is would be almost unheard of that the nipples were seated significantly low.
Just a suggestion but I think I would first check for an excessive barrel cylinder gap remember the only thing that stops the cylinder from moving forward is the barrel the second would be to check the actual clearance between the hammer and nipple. I would do this before I started sticking washers under the nipples or grinding on the recoil shield which by the way wouldn't help anything anyway.
If you have a set of dial calipers measure from the flat where the safety pins are located to the top of the nipple and I can tell you if they are in spec or not.

 

[brubincam]

-----MY 51 NAVY BY fie CAME FROM THE FACTORY WITH THE WASHERS UNDER THE NIPPLES--NEVER CAUSED ANY PROBLEMS----- :idunno:

 

[TNHillbilly]

I think you may have hit on part of the problem! I did notice a bit of play from cylinder to barrel. I reversed the wedge from entering from left, to the right side. That drew the cylinder up closer, but still 1 or 2 thousands clearance. It did however fire the cap which had not fired before! As for my term 'anvil', I realize the hammer should not strike the nipple, but am trying to describe that sort of springy snap. I've had similar lack of firing from weak mainspring. I did not mention the gun was used, maybe why it was sold.

 

[denster]

I think I would put the wedge back in from left to right. It is only designed to work that way as there is a corresponding taper in the end of the arbor slot and putting the wedge in from right to left does not allow the wedge to work properly in locking the barrel to the frame. In any case the wedge should never be used to adjust barrel cylinder gap. The barrel should go on no further than when the frame and barrel lug meet. Forcing it further results in undue strain on the arbor and barrel locator pins. It still sounds like you are using undersize caps for the nipples and they are not seating fully and the force of the hammer is being subverted by the improper fit.

 

[TNHillbilly]

Understand your point. I will get some different caps, perhaps both brand and size. Like most things, the solution is finding what/where the problem is. I feel like 'discussing' these problems usually helps someone else too.

 

[denster]

I was just checking my shooting notes. Hate to depend on memory and it's been awhile since I shot my Uberti 1862. My notes show CCI#11 fit without having to pinch them and CCI#10 had to be force seated before they would fire. Might want to try the CCI#11 that is the largest cap readily available. The Winchester by the way is just rebranded CCI if those are available.

 

[TNHillbilly]

Thanks! Went I went into my 'stash', I had a can of CCI.....which was, of course, empty. The Remington #10's didn't seem to fit properly....had to push them on. A trip to the sporting goods shop tomorrow. But, in the final analysis, how should one approach tightening up the barrel to cylinder? What comes first to my mind is shaving the barrel lug.

 

[Eterry]

I was browsing in my old DGW catalog last night and read an article by Kirkland where he says dont run the nipples in all the way the cylinder of C/B revolvers. He says the hammer should have writing paper thickness gap between the resting hammer and the nipple.

Years back I bought a 1860 army colt repro that had been assembled by a hack who took too much metal off the wedge pin. When installed correctly it left a HUGE gap and smoked like a camp fire. He had turned over the wedge, installed it upside down and it tightened up the gap, but always concerned me, so I sold it for parts.

Eterry

 

[denster]

That is the proper way of doing it. However measure your barrel cylinder gap first by holding the cylinder back against the recoil shield and checking the gap with a feeler guage. If it is .012 or less I'd leave it alone. Ideally I like .003 to .006. The problem is that the lug must be kept square and unless you are really really good with files it's a job best done on a mill. When you said you were using #10 Remingtons That is your problem for sure. They are a good cap and will fit best most of the C&B pistols with a firm push just not the pocket Uberti's. You can make them work but it requires a push stick and the sides of the cap will split.