Damaged Screw Head

[Soinkuhndog]

Well, I've done it now. I tried to take out the bolster screw of a 20 year old gun and damaged the head/slot. I have ordered a new one and ready to go if I can somehow get the old one out. Any suggestions? Or should I just plan on leaving it in forever?
Thanks.

 

[Blizzard of '93]

If you have or know some welder that has a tig setup or is really expert with a mig/stick weld a washer to it and fold it up to turn it out.

 

I'm not sure what screw you are refering to but, if you can get it to a drill press, lay the part on the press table and put a screw driver bit in the chuck. Then lower the bit into what's left of the slot and with good down pressure from the press, turn the chck by hand and the screw will either come out or break off.

 

[Jim-Iowa]

Depends on how badly the slot is damaged.
I have taked a screwdrideiver with an oversize bit and pounded it into the slot with a small ball peen hammer (the pounding helps to loosen the siezed threads). If I get int owhat apears to be a difficult screw I often start by tapping it before turning. Sometimes the slot could be opened up to reuse the screw.
I have taken a punch and driven in the directon of thread travel and got them out.
I even took the axle bolts out of a VW Rabbit by turning them with a cold Chisel because the sockets were stripped.
A worst case scenario would call for drilling it out. Sometimes they will screw out in the process.
A rare but useful item for that is left hand drills

 

[TANSTAAFL]

Many is the time these little cheap impact screw drivers have save my butt.

 

[Birddog6]

At times I have taken a small abrasive cut-off wheel on a dremml & cut the slot deeper or wider or whatever & get a new bit on the screw.

I also like the drill press idea, never thought of that one.

:thumbsup:

 

[Soinkuhndog]

That gives me some ideas. Any problem with just leaving it in?

 

[Bill Hall]

I would try all the looseneing tricks known to man, such as heating and then soaking in penetrating oil. Then mount the barrel in a vice and, as Jim-Iowa says, get a slightly oversized screwdriver and pound it into the slot. Then, grab the shank with a pair of vice grips and push the screwdriver into the slot as you turn with the vice grips. Sometimes it works to sharpen the screwdriver end so that it digs into the slot. Just make sure the screwdriver blade isn't too wide. If this doesn't work, start drilling.

 

[ricklandes]

The suggestion to have it remove via the TIG weld is the best. Do make sure you get a welder who really knows what to do, not just some one with a welder...

During the process...The changes of temp are very slight, but generally enough to loosen the threads. If you go the try to force it out with a bit of some type your risk of the snapped screw is much high IMHO.

We do things of this type very often for our customers.

Rick Landes, President
High Tech Welding, Inc.

 

[Jim-Iowa]

I can only think of a couple problems with jst leaving it. So long as the head is not damaged to the point it's holding power is not threatened it will function. Other than that, You will always know it's ugly(which may or may not bother you).
If you ever do need to take it down you will be faced with the same question you posted.
If you leave it in you may be able to touch it up with some judicious filing?

 

[J.D.]

Well, I've done it now. I tried to take out the bolster screw of a 20 year old gun and damaged the head/slot. Or should I just plan on leaving it in forever?
Thanks.

I assume this is the screw that attaches the bolster to the lock plate?

IMHO, leave it alone. There is no reason to remove the bolster/pan from a lockplate, unless you plan to completely rebuild this lock.

If you absolutely need to remove the screw, soak the lock in light oil, or even kerosene for a coupla days, then apply heat to the plate. Soak for a few days and apply more heat. Continue the process until the screw comes loose.

The suggestions mentioned in the other posts will certainly help, but IMHO, soaking in oil and heat will make the process much easier and much less frustrating.

I have had to soak/heat parts for as long as a coupla weeks to remove screws without buggering the heads. Patience is certaily a virtue when it comes to removing uncooperative screws.

J.D.

 

[George F.]

I've had to do this usually on patchbox screws that I've filed off to get the metal to wood fit. I use a graver, and cut a new slot. You'll have to go at it from both edges, and a few passes. Then like Cody suggested, which is a great idea, put it in the drill press where you can exert some real down pressure and you should be successful

 

[Soinkuhndog]

Thanks. I'm thinking I'll wait until after our Rendezvous this weekend as it's the only rifle I have. Then, let the adventure begin.

 

[jr06]

One last tip on the MIG/TIG approach. Lay a nut on the screw head and weld up the hole.

 

IMHO :hmm: If it ain't broke DON"T fix it.

 

[Shelby Skinner]

Like it was said, there is no reason you can't simply leave the screw in place. But if you absolutely MUST get it out try a small drill and an ez-out. That's why they moke those things. Soaking a few days in kerosene or Kroil would help.