Damascus Barrel - Go/No Go

[Fez]

So, I am getting very interested in single and double barrel percussion and flintlock shotguns from the early to mid 1800's.

Can anyone let me know what to look for when checking the bores of Damascus barrels? I tried to find photos online of what would be considered a go or no go when it comes to a barrel that is safe to shoot but not having much luck.

If anyone has any reference photos or advice on what to look for when it comes to condition of the bores, I would appreciate it greatly.

Thanks,
Cory

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

Just like any other bore, you want them as bright and shiny inside as you can find

 

[Fez]

Just like any other bore, you want them as bright and shiny inside as you can find

Where would you draw the line with pitting or roughness in the bore? I am looking for something that I can shoot...not just a wall hanger.

Thanks in advance,
Cory

 

[R Ellis]

Always check with the ring test

 

[Fez]

Always check with the ring test

That is for checking the rib solder on side by sides correct?

 

[R Ellis]

Yes but also the joint in the Damascus weld even a single barrel should ring

 

[Fez]

Yes but also the joint in the Damascus weld even a single barrel should ring

Thanks R Ellis....I did not know of ringing a single barrel.

 

[BoomStick]

If you want to keep the original look, but don't mind a reduction in bore size, having the barrels lined is an option.

 

[Fez]

If you want to keep the original look, but don't mind a reduction in bore size, having the barrels lined is an option.

Hey Boomstick...I did see one that was lined in a smaller gauge. I am hoping for a shooting condition gun, to keep it historically correct and to use in shoots that require original arms.

The one I saw was an unspeakable hammer side by side with Damascus barrels, he was shooting skeet with it...beautiful gun and the guy stated his gunsmith said relining it was the only safe way to shoot it.

I have only checked out a few original 12 gauges and they had pitting or looked rough and grey. I am a novice when looking at these barrels. Who knows maybe those were actually considered good condition.

 

[jlatz]

I have been using the original double and single barrel muzzle loading shotguns since the 1960s. There are variables. Ringing the barrels to check soler joints is a good idea. I have had two re-jointed, resoldered over the years. Even though an original gun might "ring" well initially, in use a rib might come loose. If the barrels are thick enough some roughness/pits could be reamed out. A good quality original can be found through good research and searching. You will pay more for a good one, but in use, generally, it would be worth it. Check with the National Muzzle Loading Rifle Association. They can refer one to muzzle loading shotgun users that could be of help. I have been at their natioanl events in trap for a number of years using original guns. One favorite is a 15 ga. Belgian double that performs well. Oh, another point, British guns were jointed/soldered with soft colder. Most Belgian guns were brazed. And, get a copy of proof marks off the web. Check underneath the barrels for those. Good luck on the search. It may take a while, but being careful is a plus.

 

[andy52]

I generally don't buy SXSs that are heavily pitted, moderate to light pitting can be removed with a bore hone. They don't need to be perfectly smooth to still shoot well.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

I generally don't buy SXSs that are heavily pitted, moderate to light pitting can be removed with a bore hone. They don't need to be perfectly smooth to still shoot well.

Usually the right barrel is the one that's roached. It gets shot the most. I've seen lost of damascus barrel guns with a good left barrel and a very poor right barrel.

LD

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

If you want to keep the original look, but don't mind a reduction in bore size, having the barrels lined is an option.

Too heavy with a liner.

 

[Fez]

Too heavy with a liner.

Comfortably_Numb,

Is it possible for you to pm me? I tried to pm you but I am unable. I have some questions that I am hoping you can help me with and need some direction/advice on a project I am considering.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

OK

 

[jimairwin]

So, I am getting very interested in single and double barrel percussion and flintlock shotguns from the early to mid 1800's.

Can anyone let me know what to look for when checking the bores of Damascus barrels? I tried to find photos online of what would be considered a go or no go when it comes to a barrel that is safe to shoot but not having much luck.

If anyone has any reference photos or advice on what to look for when it comes to condition of the bores, I would appreciate it greatly.

Thanks,
Cory

There's much more to this than just bore condition.

 

[Fez]

There's much more to this than just bore condition.

There's much more to this than just bore condition.

That is why I am asking you guys for advice.

I am barely keeping my head above water on my own.

 

[reddogge]

Not an expert here but my friend had a 12 ga. Parker damascus barrel relined to 20 gauge and it was an abomination to shoot, very muzzle heavy and "dead" feeling. I once bought a percussion shotgun from a dealer who insisted he proof it before selling it to me. It blew up. I'd be very careful with damascus barrels and make sure to shoot very light loads and do a remote shot with it for the first time.

 

[Lorne Johnson]

There's much more to this than just bore condition.

Wall thickness is pretty important, I have an original SxS made by Henry Egg (Joseph's son) that was measured at .033 and .036 minimum, which is pretty stout. There are tools to measure this, but they are not cheap.