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Danger of Grain Runout in Ramrods

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Zonie

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Well, I see we have over 800 new members sense I last got on my Ramrod soap box so here goes:

Many of the wooden ramrods that come with many factory made guns are accidents waiting to happen.

This isn't limited to the inexpensive rifles so regardless of who made your gun you should check your ramrod for grain runout if you haven't already done so.

A good wooden ramrod will be made out of a piece of split wood which is then rounded up to size.
By using split wood, the natural grain of the wood is followed and each small tubular piece of grain will run from one end of the rod to the other.
We say that wood like this has no 'runout'.

A cheaper way to make ramrods is to saw the blank into small blocks which are then rounded and sized.
The problem with this method is the grain that starts out on one end often runs out the side of the ramrod somewhere between the ends.

If your ramrod was made this way you will see the characteristic ends of the grain. They look like this drawing
ramrodgrain1.jpg


If your ramrod has these grain 'runouts' it can very easily split along them while your ramming your load down the bore.
More than one person has ended up with the sharp end sticking thru their hand when this happened to them.

If you examine your ramrod and it has even one of these grain runouts do not use it for ramming the load in your barrel.
Replace it with either a good piece of wood, one of the fancy factory custom made ramrods or even a piece of brass or steel.

I should also mention for you newbees to muzzleloading that one should never grab the ramrod by the distant end and try ramming a load all the way down the bore in one giant shove.
That is a good way to break even the very best of wooden ramrods (or bend a metal one).

To use your ramrod properly grasp it about 8-12 inches above the muzzle and shove it down. Then repeat this until the patched ball/bullet is firmly seated on the powder.

As they used to say on 'Grand Ole' Opree" "Weer thru now." :grin:
 
I'd also like to add that using a knife to mark a line on your ramrod for the full load line is also an accident waiting to happen. I have had several ramrods start a break at that cut. It took awhile but eventually I got smart and now mark the ramrod with a felt tip marker or a pencil.

Many Klatch
 
I was lucky this past Spring when a sliver split out of a replacement ramrod from Pedersoli. It missed my hand, but I almost had to change my pants! :surrender: The sliver was about 7 inches long and looked like the picture of runout. I have since went back to the old ramrod that I retired and it is doing fine.
 
It's true. My first arm was a T/C (good gun!). I was as new as it was and in a short time i broke that wooden RR. Replaced it and learned to choke up on the RR, and havent broken one since.
:v
 
I've looked at lots of mass produced MLs (Lyman, TC and Pedersoli, eg) and every one of them had runout in the ramrod. Firsthand experience in use- The ramrod on my first GPR lasted almost a year. The rod on the second didn't last a month.

Using Zonie's 8-12" grab and push, the cracks were small and didn't result in holes in my hand. Kinda makes my shorts clammy to think what would have happened if I'd been pushing from the end.

Long and short of it, figure on replacing the ramrod sooner rather than later, and if you don't want to chance holey hands, do it right away before the split happens. Cuzz it's gonna happen.
 
If you are buying 100% wooden ramrods on the Internet you may as well figure on buying a half dozen and maybe you will get 50% (if you are lucky) that are serviceable.
 
Its why I split all mine out. Its a bit of a pain and I don't like making them, but its worth it.
 
Given your very well substantiated facts about "safe" wooden ramrods, Zonie, is there anyone out there who can offer a true 'handsplit' no-grain runout ramrod blank at even near reasonable cost? mjw
 
I have gone through boxes of hickory rods at Friendship, visiting several dealers on commercial row. Finding sticks without grain runout is not hard. Finding sticks without grain runout that are straight is harder. Some of the run out is at one end of a rod, where you can cut that portion off and still have a useable rod. It depends on the length of your barrel. I had more trouble finding good wood for my rifle's 39 inch barrel, than for the 30 inch barrel on my 12 gauge.

There are lumber mills all over the East and midwest that process hickory logs. And you can often find a friendly farmer who does not object to you cutting down a hickory sapling in the winter, when the sap is down. If you look at the bark on the tree, it will tell you how straight the grain is, and for how long. Hickory saplings that grow up from the bottom of ravines can often reach 30 feet or more in height before their branches begin to catch the prevailing winds, and begin to twist the grain from there upward.

I don't know if there is enough buyer demand for straight grained hickory shafts to warrant a mill sorting for that on a commercial basis. I suspect not.

You might google Wooden dowel manufacturers and ask one of them. Or call a supplier listed here and ask them where they buy their hickory rods.

When I was sorting rods at Friendship, the dealer asked me, finally, if I had found what I needed.
I told him how surprised I was to see so many crooked, or run-out grain sticks. He said they buy them by the gross, and when the sticks have been picked over, they put the remainder out at a reduced price for people making short barreled rifles, and pistols. He took a good look down the sticks I was buying, smiled, and said nothing more. I did buy half a dozen good sticks that time, and took them back to my club to sell to members who could not make the trip to Friendship.
 
One place you might want to check is at a local Bow Hunter or Archery supply store. Especially one that carries "parts" for people to make their own arrows up. People who shoot bows also don't like that "run out" on grain in the wood. Their "dowel stock" might be of better than average quality. But it also will tend to be a little shorter than some people might need.

Just a thought to share.

Personally, I use a heavy "wiping stick" for cleaning and loading my muzzleloader - instead of the ramrod. It is much closer to bore size, and generally stronger than the ramrod on my guns. Yes, it can be a pain to carry along hunting, and many times I just use it to load initially, then use the ramrod to reload as necessary. (both are marked for correct load height) Just an option to consider.

Mikey - that grumpy ol' German blacksmith out in the Hinterlands
 
I agree. This is a subject that is often overlooked until someone gets a wooden spear through their hand or wrist. MJ, Dixie offers straight grain hickory ram rods. I do the same as Mike. I take my range rod hunting with me. I use it to load my initial load in camp, then use the wooden one in the field as needed. At the end of the day I use the range rod to clean my rifle. I read about long hunters using a whipping stick, so I think Mike is right on track.
 
I don't mind a crooked (within reason) ramrod. The crooks can be straighten by applying heat, moisture, compression or all of the above. Some of the bow building books such as The Traditional Bowyers Bible has a lot of good info on straightening arrows and those techniques directly apply to the straightening of ramrods. At their worst they are a very interesting read.
 
I wish whom ever packed my last order of ramrod blanks had known they were supposed to be straight. I ordered a half dozen and had two that would make a rifle or fowler rod. The rest had some sections that were Ok for a couple of pistol rods.
 
I use a fiberglass rod for cleaning at the range and the aluminum (or steel?) rod that came with my Green Mountain barrel for loading and general field use. Being safe is more important than being PC, IMHO. If I was headed for a rondyvoo, I'd find a substitute.
 
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