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Davis Deerslayer in Lyman GPR

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Joined
Mar 14, 2020
Messages
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Location
Wantage, NJ
Hello, I just received my Davis Deerslayer trigger for my Lyman GPR. Upon installing, it seemed to line up and fit without removing material like the instructions say. However, once installed the lock was acting as if the trigger was being held down all the time. Took it back out, and it appears the sear is about 3/16” higher than stock, this keeping the hammer engaged all the time. Am I doing something incorrectly here? Or does something not look right with the trigger? I was going to call them on Monday. 58C1702F-99C7-447D-8CDA-44DFD9EC5DC0.jpeg58C1702F-99C7-447D-8CDA-44DFD9EC5DC0.jpeg69B700E6-D9FC-4874-9284-8ED58B03E7B8.jpeg60116AD6-A0DD-4BA7-9263-ABCEB682888F.jpeg
 
I just put one in a GPR and did not have that issue. Mine dropped right in without any in letting. The hammer must be cocked to set the set trigger. I don't know if this is normal ?. The factory trigger could be set before cocking. It is a great improvement over the factory trigger.
 
I installed one in my T/C Hawken and the trigger dropped right in. I had to back out the set trigger screw to allow the hammer to fire with the new trigger. This could be your problem.
 
I installed one in my T/C Hawken and the trigger dropped right in. I had to back out the set trigger screw to allow the hammer to fire with the new trigger. This could be your problem.
I know what you mean, and I tried that. But even with the screw backed out all the way, it’s still not right. When I remove the trigger, the hammer functions normally
 
I installed one in a GPR a few years ago. It required just the slightest amount of inletting. I am able to set the rear trigger without cocking the hammer
 
if it sits in the mortised wood where the stock trigger would be, there’s no inletting to be done, correct? It sits flush with the wood, and I’m able to install the screws. I can’t see what else would be an issue
 
I don't know why this trigger would be any different than the factory trigger but, with the set triggers that builders buy from supply companies when they are building a rifle, finding a trigger blade that is too tall is just part of building a rifle or pistol.

In fact, the builder can expect the blade to always be too tall. The places that build the triggers for custom builds have no idea about where a guns trigger and lock sear will be located and by making the blade "too tall" it can always be filed down to the correct height by the builder. (Yes, with your deerslayer trigger they should know where the blade should be.)

In any case, I would call the place I bought it from and ask them if they might have sent the wrong trigger. While on the phone with them, I would tell them that I had posted about this problem on Muzzleloadingforum.com in the General Muzzleloading section and the name of the post is "Davis Deerslayer In Lyman GPR".
That way, they could call up this thread and see your photos.

Don't be surprised if they suggest filing the top of the blade down so it ends up the same as the original factory trigger.
 
I don't know why this trigger would be any different than the factory trigger but, with the set triggers that builders buy from supply companies when they are building a rifle, finding a trigger blade that is too tall is just part of building a rifle or pistol.

In fact, the builder can expect the blade to always be too tall. The places that build the triggers for custom builds have no idea about where a guns trigger and lock sear will be located and by making the blade "too tall" it can always be filed down to the correct height by the builder. (Yes, with your deerslayer trigger they should know where the blade should be.)

In any case, I would call the place I bought it from and ask them if they might have sent the wrong trigger. While on the phone with them, I would tell them that I had posted about this problem on Muzzleloadingforum.com in the General Muzzleloading section and the name of the post is "Davis Deerslayer In Lyman GPR".
That way, they could call up this thread and see your photos.

Don't be surprised if they suggest filing the top of the blade down so it ends up the same as the original factory trigger.
Thanks. I was scratching my head because it seems like so many guys on here are able to drop em right in. I already sent RE Davis an email with the pictures, so hopefully I talk to someone before I start filing away.
 
Jul 31, 2016
Well here is a continuation of this topic. Received the triggers last Wednesday and installed them. Yes, they did just drop right in. Didn't have to remove any wood but did have to do some very minor filing on the front trigger guard foot where it meets the seem on the front portion of the trigger plate. That took only a few strokes with the file and then the front trigger guard foot set flush in it's inlet in the stock. Very easy. Even for me! :haha:

Did notice a vast improvement right off the bat. No more spongy feeling in the front trigger release. It is nice and crisp and breaks clean when the lock is fired. The rear set trigger sets the firing trigger with a nice easy audible pull. " CLICK "

These Davis Triggers are like comparing an Indy Formula Race Car to an old Model T!

This is from a thread about 4 years ago. Might be helpful in your situation my friend?

Respectfully, Cowboy
 
Jul 31, 2016
Well here is a continuation of this topic. Received the triggers last Wednesday and installed them. Yes, they did just drop right in. Didn't have to remove any wood but did have to do some very minor filing on the front trigger guard foot where it meets the seem on the front portion of the trigger plate. That took only a few strokes with the file and then the front trigger guard foot set flush in it's inlet in the stock. Very easy. Even for me! :haha:

Did notice a vast improvement right off the bat. No more spongy feeling in the front trigger release. It is nice and crisp and breaks clean when the lock is fired. The rear set trigger sets the firing trigger with a nice easy audible pull. " CLICK "

These Davis Triggers are like comparing an Indy Formula Race Car to an old Model T!

This is from a thread about 4 years ago. Might be helpful in your situation my friend?

Respectfully, Cowboy
Thanks Cowboy...I think Zonie got it with his reply. The trigger assembly fits nicely in the stock. It sit’s flush, The rear screw lines up and the trigger guard fits on perfectly. But it’s putting pressure on the lock mechanism, as if I’m holding down the front trigger at all times. So the lock cannot set at half/full cock. But once I remove the trigger, the lock functions normally. I can only guess they sent me an “unfinished” trigger...seems like nobody else has had this issue with it being a “drop in” trigger. It’s no big deal if I need to fit it to the lock, I just want to make sure before I do.
 
What I was trying to refer to back then was that the rear portion of the front trigger guard foot was resting on top of trigger plate instead of mating flush within the the trigger plate seam.

Had to file back the rear of the front trigger guard foot just a hair so both trigger guard foot and trigger plate would mate flush with each other.

Also noticed at the time, that the rear trigger plate screw didn’t line up with the existing screw hole in the stock. I filled in hole and re-drilled a new one.

Lastly, if I didn’t file back the rear portion of the front trigger guard foot where it meets the seam of the trigger plate, excess pressure would be applied thus driving the trigger’s to deep in the trigger well of the stock when the trigger guard was tightened down. Hope this makes sense my friend?

Anyway, I also had a second GPR that I installed Davis Deer Slayer triggers into and never had any of the issues that I described? They just set right in with no modifications required.

Here are a couple of pics of the original GPR that I had to make modifications to my friend.

Respectfully, Cowboy 825C1AFD-A770-42A5-A6CB-A39A1BA3949B.jpegA4305F30-7535-4DAD-9B56-2BAFC107B833.jpegD3CD6842-5FE2-44F3-9921-2CBC265952F0.jpeg29CCE0AD-57F7-4686-8644-630D0C4B261B.jpeg
 
Thanks Cowboy...I think Zonie got it with his reply. The trigger assembly fits nicely in the stock. It sit’s flush, The rear screw lines up and the trigger guard fits on perfectly. But it’s putting pressure on the lock mechanism, as if I’m holding down the front trigger at all times. So the lock cannot set at half/full cock. But once I remove the trigger, the lock functions normally. I can only guess they sent me an “unfinished” trigger...seems like nobody else has had this issue with it being a “drop in” trigger. It’s no big deal if I need to fit it to the lock, I just want to make sure before I do.
Your reply beat me with my last posting my friend.

Respectfully, Cowboy
 
Quick test to see if it is too high is to shim the trigger plate out with a business card, remount it, and see if the problem goes away. This should also give you have a rough guide as to how much metal needs removed. Sneak up on it.
 
Just to follow up...I talked to someone at RE Davis, and I did wind up filling it down. Had to take quite a bit off, but I got it just right. Looking forward to shooting it.
 
Resurrecting an old thread.

I picked up a GPR at a pawn shop the other week. In nice shape. Ordered a set of the Davis Deerslayer triggers. Like Lippy, I had to do quite a bit of filing to get mine to work, but they finally do. Going to a club shoot on Saturday, we will see. Overall, I can already tell the difference. It is significantly better.
 
Resurrecting an old thread.

I picked up a GPR at a pawn shop the other week. In nice shape. Ordered a set of the Davis Deerslayer triggers. Like Lippy, I had to do quite a bit of filing to get mine to work, but they finally do. Going to a club shoot on Saturday, we will see. Overall, I can already tell the difference. It is significantly better.
Absolutely. I’m glad I put one in mine. Just need more time to shoot
 
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