Davis Double Trigger, Set Screw ??

[Micah Clark]

OK . kind of a dumb question, that I ought to know. . . rather than assume, could someone explain what the little screw between the front trigger and the set trigger does on my Davis triggers?

 

[JohnN]

Increases or decreases the amount of pressure needed to "pull" the trigger.

 

[Micah Clark]

It changes the pressure on the front trigger I assume.

Thanks!!

 

[Zonie]

The screw between the triggers does not change the weight of the trigger pull at all.

It does change the distance the front trigger needs to be moved to release the rear trigger when that rear trigger is set.

The rear trigger has a small projection sticking out of the front of it that I'll call the latch and the front trigger has a similar projection that will catch and hold the rear trigger in the cocked or set position.

That little screw controls how far the front triggers catch engages the rear triggers latch.

To properly adjust this screw, first make sure the hammer on the lock is in its fully fired position. (Do not put the hammer at half-****).

Now, pull the rear trigger until the front trigger catches it and holds it in the "set" position.

Using a small screw driver, slowly turn the screw clockwise (in) until the rear trigger is suddenly released. (Keep your fingers clear of the rear trigger. It will snap forward with considerable force.)

Once the rear trigger is released, use the screw driver to turn the little adjustment screw counter-clockwise (unscrew it), one full turn.
Your done.

WARNING
Unscrewing the screw less than 1 full turn can cause the set trigger to release if the gun is bumped or jarred.
If this happens with a loaded gun, it can accidentally kill someone so DO NOT use less than the 1 FULL TURN on this screw.

If you like the front trigger to need to be pulled further before the rear trigger releases, unscrew the little screw counterclockwise a bit more.

If you have a Lyman rifle you will find that screwing the adjustment screw in as far as the screw will go does not cause the rear trigger to release.

This is because Lyman decided that allowing the gun owner to possibly set the adjustment screw incorrectly making the gun unsafe was a bad idea.

Several people have removed the little screw from their Lyman guns and taken it to a hardware store and found a longer screw with the same metric threads.
Installing this longer screw allowed them to adjust the set trigger release to their liking.

 

[Micah Clark]

That's very helpful. . . I am very glad I asked . . . I'll set my davis triggers . . . coincidentally my other ML rifle is a Lyman GPR.

Again thank you very much for this info !!!

 

[BrownBear]

Several people have removed the little screw from their Lyman guns and taken it to a hardware store and found a longer screw with the same metric threads.
Installing this longer screw allowed them to adjust the set trigger release to their liking.

Put me on the list of folks that did so with the standard Lyman trigger way back when. Among the screws available in our store, the only one long enough was in fact at least 1/4" too long and had to be shortened.

Academic for me, actually. I strongly disliked the un-set pull on the original Lyman so much I tried the Davis and never looked back. Much of my shooting is done without setting the trigger, and the Lyman just can't come close.

The Davis consistently breaks cleanly at 2.5-3# with no creep and without setting. I'm pretty sure every single Lyman and TC rifle in my rack with double triggers is now wearing a Davis. It's that good. :thumbsup:

 

[Billnpatti]

It has little to no effect on the actual force needed to pull the trigger. Adjusting the screw increases or decreases the front trigger engagement in the trigger assembly. As you decrease the trigger engagement, it takes less length of a pull to fire the gun. The feel is that of having increased or decreased the trigger pull force depending on how much you change the trigger engagement and which direction. As you turn the screw in (clockwise), you decrease the engagement and the sensation is that of having decreased force needed to pull the trigger. As you turn the screw out (counterclockwise) you increase the trigger engagement and the sensation is that of having increased the force necessary to pull the trigger.

In your case, you are dealing with a set trigger but FYI, in the case of a single trigger, the actual force needed to pull the trigger is a function of the location of the trigger in relation to the sear bar and the strength of the sear spring. To actually lighten the trigger pull, you have to make adjustments to the location of the trigger or grind or replace the sear spring to lighten it.

 

[Brokennock]

Does anyone ever read what others have posted before dropping their redundant 1.5 cents in?


Not meaning you. But look at the posts between us.

 

[Billnpatti]

Does anyone ever read what others have posted before dropping their redundant 1.5 cents in?


Not meaning you. But look at the posts between us.

Guilty as charged. :surrender: I just read the question and answer it. :hmm: If I am redundant, it is up to the OP and other readers to dismiss it. :yakyak: Just take my ramblings for what they are worth. Many are probably worth less than you paid for them. I enjoy reading the questions and offering my advice, such as it is. At my age, I'm not likely to change. :idunno: What harm is there in letting an old fart natter. :rotf:

 

[Zonie]

IMO, there's nothing wrong with having some redundant posts.

Different people have different ways of saying the same thing and one persons way of saying things may be clearer to a reader than another persons way of saying the same thing.

There are some other posts that happen now and then where I do sometimes wonder if people who respond to the original post that started the topic took the time to really read it.

When someone posts, "It is impossible for me to buy a dorkenspray where I live", and someone answers by saying, "What you need is to buy a dorkenspray.", it makes me wonder. :shocked2: :grin:

 

[Brokennock]

Don't really mean to offend. And, I guess there's not much harm in, "letting an old fart natter." The issue I have is not with you personally, but, I have noticed this trend becoming more and more prevalent lately and in several cases people not reading what is already posted, and/or actually posted, has resulted not only in a few arguments, but arguments, criticisms, and suggestions to get a "Dorkenspray" when the issue never had anything to do with a "dorkenspray" or anything else the posters were "discussing."

Just like in any conversation, listening (in this case reading) to what is said (written) is as or more important than what one says or writes. Often folks are too quick to jump in.

Be well.

 

[Billnpatti]

I, too, find it interesting and often amusing how we can get off into how one should or should not use Dorkenspray on a waffle sprocket when the OP asked if it was HC to have a sitspringe on an original snaffenschatsel. Oh well, as long as we are having fun and learning something along the way......... :hatsoff:

 

[bpd303]

I learn something along the way just about every day. Today I learned not to discuss politics with my wife. Anyone have an aspirin. :grin: :surrender:

 

[Billnpatti]

I learn something along the way just about every day. Today I learned not to discuss politics with my wife. Anyone have an aspirin. :grin: :surrender:

I found discussing politics with my wife to be a very pleasant experience. She was an enlightened conservative Republican just like me. A brilliant woman! I was extremely proud of her....still am even though she has "gone home".

 

[garra]

Rather just adjusting the screw for feel. I remove the trigger assembly so I can see the hold the set trigger has. I adjust it with it out of the rifle till I like the feel and can see what how much the hold is, then I reinstall it.

 

[B.Habermehl]

Your method is good in a prefect in letting situation, if the trigger plate is stressed due to in letting issues then all bets are off. Trigger adjustments need to be done with the gun completely assembled, then verified after humidity/ environment changes are taken into account. In other words the adjustment is never perfect. It is always a bit of compromise due to environmental changes.. BJH

 

[Micah Clark]

All good posts . .not redundant to me . . . educational for this novice.

Thanks !!!

 

[LRB]

I have never experienced any changes in my set triggers, once adjusted where I want them. With the adjustment in ounces, and no #'s involved. I usually adjust to about 4oz. by my gauge. Possibly less with some, and will not hesitate to use them in hunting unless the range is very close, or time is too critical. I adjust them installed in the gun. I tune and adjust the locks first, so that I have a decent trigger pull off the front trigger, then tune and adjust the set trigger pull to where I like it, and that being very light.

 

[B.Habermehl]

Here in central Pa. We have big seasonal changes in both temperature an humidity. On one gun I own with a super curly maple stock the forend elongates a full sixteenth of a inch each summer and contracts about as much each winter. Thus my experience with having to readjust set triggers periodically. Personally I doubt I will ever build a gun with set triggers for my own use again. I personally prefer a single trigger with 2-3 lb pull, especially for our blue a----cold post Christmas muzzloading season.