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Decarbonization fluid to clean muzzleloader??

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marco

32 Cal.
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Dear sirs.

A question from a friend that does not speak English:

""- may I use decabornizing spray (used to clean engine injector nozzles) to clean my muzzleloader fouling and then use water without soap to remove the decarbonization fluid and then finish the cleaning process?""



I by myself prefer the KISS style and i use only water and soap.

But since it seems to be a legitimate doubt, i
Would like to hear you guys about it.

thank,

ATb
 
If the slag (very hard fouling) is important, it can be cleaned with a product for stripping electric kitchen ovens, I have done it in the past several times.
With this kind of product, there is no risk for the steel (take care for the wood): they are all products without acid and just a base (usually caustic soda) and can be cleaned and neutralized after the work with simply tap water...
 
A cheap bottle of ammonia free glass cleaner you can pick up a a Dollar Store will work really well if your friend wants something to spray on that will break up hard fouling.
 
Here is a true story

Edward Marshall walked in to Andreas Albrecht's shop and Andy said,

Ed, it's great to see you, I have your new rifle done and I have to tell you it is the absolute latest in lead slinging technology, this baby has all the latest innovations. There is only one drawback, you have to use decarbonizing fluid, windshield washer fluid and Barricade or their equivalents in order to keep it working properly.

Ed says, Huumm, I think I will just keep on using water and tallow.

Andy says, If you do it will not last 200 years.

Ed says, wanna bet.
True story:ghostly:
 
The old first quality British gunmakers recommended just cold water. Not hot, not soap. Just cold water. Cleaned and dried with tow ideally.

Admittedly unmentionable, but the British army used to issue two small pieces of selvedge rag to soldiers to clean their Martini Henry rifles. Annually. That was it.
 
Only thing is the question of propelent. If true black powder has been used ... then water in various forms will suffice. And do very well. Water has dissolved fouling from the beginning of powder residue contained in a shooting vessel.

Now if some aftermarket powder has been used, I for one know nothing about what it takes to clean it.
 
For a quick clean I use windshield cleaning fluid. Just pour it in leave for 1 to 2 min. pour out run a patch and your good to go. but when I get to the house then it is HOT soppy water. You also need to run a oil patch down the bore.
 
I have used Berkebile 2+2 "Gum Cutter" to remove machining oils but ONLY from factory new barrels before the first use. It will also remove all finishes from wood so try it at your own peril. Sprayed on a patch - not directly into the bore.

But it is beyond unnecessary for routine cleaning. Way too aggressive. Soapy water - doesn't even need to be hot.
 
I use hot water with a touch of dish detergent. First it works better to get the black powder soot off my hands so it probably works better in a bore also, and second, it heats the barrel a bit which makes me think that the barrel and assorted nooks and crannies probably dry faster and more completely.
I shoot rimfire benchrest matches and I've found Boretech Carbon Remover works well in that context.
 
The caustic soda is not a really chemical stuff...
About the soap and the products it contains. To go quick and short :
Soap - Wikipedia
Base (chemistry) - Wikipedia
Common product for soap and oven cleaner : caustic soda

Soap does not contain lye (caustic soda). Lye is use to make soap. A chemical reaction between the fat and lye produces soap. Both the lye and fat are consumed in the reaction. Lye is extremely caustic and soap is not.

Heads up, lye is very dangerous stuff. A tiny flake in your eye can blind you. IF it gets on your skin it will burn into it yet cause only a slight itch at first. Avoid using lye for anything, it certainly has no place in cleaning guns.
 
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