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Decorative inlaying

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steveh

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Can someone direct me to a tutorial, topic, etc. on the method for inlaying decorative metal (stars, moons....pink clovers :grin:)!
Thanks...
 
Most of the builders books have detailed instructions on how to do this. :thumbsup:
 
SteveH said:
Can someone direct me to a tutorial, topic, etc. on the method for inlaying decorative metal (stars, moons....pink clovers :grin:)!
Thanks...
Practice on a seperate piece of wood. I draw the outline by using the back of a sharp knife like and X-acto. I then darken the marks with a rubber eraser on the wood. If you file ever-so lightly on the back of the brass inlay, You can establish a bevel.
Try to start inlaying the piece with this bevel in mind. I allways draw a second line 1/16" inside the first line and start my cuts. Remove enough wood to establish the depth of the brass into the wood. I use emery boards cut to size to finish sanding. My last step is to gently remove the last 1/16" of wood around the outside. The bevel in the brass should give the appearance of a perfect fit. Most folks finish by drilling a tiny hole in the piece and hammer in a brass nail of sorts to anchor the piece in. This brass nail has no head per say, maybe just a lump. Use epoxy to set the piece and finsh with the brass nail. File off the head of the nail flush with the surface using a very fine toothed file and it will dissapear. Here's one of my inlays, sorry the pictures kind of crappy....
loydsCarvingButstock.jpg
 
Thank you Loyd!...That's exactly what I was looking for. I believe that this will be an enjoyable experience. :hatsoff:
 
Just a thought, be sure to contour the inlay Before you draw the outline on the stock, as if you bend it afterwards you changed the dimension of the inlay & it will be too large or too small for the area ya cut out. :hmm:
 
The inlay should be bent to the contour of the intended area and the edges are filed for a slight back draft. The inlay has to be "held" against the wood....some use a screw, pins, nails, fingers or "super glue". An Exacto knife w/ a new blade is used to cut around the inlay at the base of the drafted edge and then the inlay is removed. The same Exacto knife or a chisel is used to back cut to the "cut in outline" and because the original outline cut is outside the inlay, the inlay has a partial entry as soon as the interior wood is removed. Continue removing wood, both on the edges and depth as indicated by whatever is used for a spotting compound until the inlay is a few thousands of an inch above the wood. The inlay can then be filed flush w/ the wood and remains there for final sanding and finishing, thereby preventing the edges of the inlet to be rounded over. There are a few excellent "how to" books available and at least one should be studied thoroughly...Fred
 
Thanks fellas!...The information you've imparted will be invaluable. :hatsoff:
 
loydsCarvingButstockxxx.jpg


Loyd hope you did not mind I lightened your picture a little bit to see it better .. :hmm:

Davy
 
Over the years, there have been several posts about installing inlays. You might want to check out this link:

INLAYING

You might also want to look this old post over;
tools

If you ever get around to inlaying a large item like a patchbox, you might want to look at this post:

Large Inlay Depths
 
Here is an inlay I put in the cheek piece of my GPR this past weekend.

huntersstar.jpg


I basically used the methods put forward here in this discussion, but not exactly. :redface:
This is my first inlay attempt and I had a little trouble forming it to the shape of the stock, with the result that the German Silver ended up slightly out of true (and I was so careful to cut and file it exact :( ). I also managed to cut a little too deep in places. I was originally just going to pin it into the stock, but ended up using epoxy. I did pin it in four places with brass brads, and put a brass #2 screw in the center, but mostly for show. I then inlay some brass wire around the star. After setting the inlay, I filed and sanded it to the wood.

Scott
 
Thanks for the links Zonie, and that looks pretty dern good for the first go-around, Scott!! :winking:
 
I finally had a chance to read those links Zonie, and they make one hell of a tutorial. Much thanks for the invaluable information. :hatsoff:
 

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