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We're derailing this poor guy's thread so this'll be my last. Had a back and forth with someone on here last year about that started by me being lazy and taking a pic of a can of boot polish sitting in front of me rather than going downstairs to get one of the same stuff in a different tin. Doesn't matter whose brand of mink oil you look up, or what it's sold for, once you find the ingredient list, they're all some mix of the same ingredients. Most are two plant-based derivatives and have just enough actual mink oil in em to skirt any legalities.

Note, in my last sentence I said most. I'm sure someone on here has an actual supply of the real deal.
Like maple syrup from cracker barrel. Read the ingredients 51% maple , 49% corn syrup 😂
 
Used crisco today on .013 pillow ticking it shot well @ 50 yds. Tried .015 patch with crisco couldnt even get the ball started without deforming it badly.
 

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For the burnt patch problem try a pinch of hornet nest material over the powder. I've tried it, it works.
 
I have just shot the pre-lubed and cut patches from Oxyoke. Lubed with 1000+/BoreButter. I get them in .015" or .020" thickness. Leave them in the plastic bag until used and they last a very long time.
To the above comment about sharp rifling... on any new to me gun, I run a bunch of patches down the bore that are loaded with buffing compound or JB Bore Paste. Alternate with a good solvent, and you will see a much shinier bore and remove a lot of buildup. I have yet to find one that didn't shoot better afterwards,
 
LOL! why do people think that they have to use a special system and tricky things to get accuracy? they like to reinvent the wheel. i will say one of the best newest things in ML i have tried in the last few years thanks to mulebrain is the dawn patch lube, if old Daniel Boone had dawn, i know he would have used it, and that is good enough for me,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
Wish I could help more. If you want to stick to the dry patch method, maybe more Ballistol? I think I did one 35mm film canister, to 2 35mm film canisters of distilled water. Kept the strips in a Ziploc bag.
I used the Dutch system for a while but mostly on the range. I got excellent accuracy results. You have to remember that Dutch said to wipe between shots. Otherwise you are wrestling the bear to get the next shot down. I used it one year hunting. Shot an elk that ran so I immediately started to reload. It all my excitement I didn't wipe first. I was battling to get that ball down. Pounded on the rod with sticks and finally got it down to only ten inches to go so I started ramming it into a tree. Finally seated the ball. Elk was not far away and was stone cold dead.


Used crisco today on .013 pillow ticking it shot well @ 50 yds. Tried .015 patch with crisco couldnt even get the ball started without deforming it badly.
All of my 54s have been loaded with 535 and .018 patch or 530 with .020 patch. They weren't hard to load. I feel like you need a smaller ball.
Im one who is convinced that our choice of patch lube is not critical, but good grief, you got to have some kind of lube. I can't imagine not using patch lube.
That's my view also. I've way lost count of the patch lubes I've used. They all worked fine when used properly.
 
I used the Dutch system for a while but mostly on the range. I got excellent accuracy results. You have to remember that Dutch said to wipe between shots. Otherwise you are wrestling the bear to get the next shot down. I used it one year hunting. Shot an elk that ran so I immediately started to reload. It all my excitement I didn't wipe first. I was battling to get that ball down. Pounded on the rod with sticks and finally got it down to only ten inches to go so I started ramming it into a tree. Finally seated the ball. Elk was not far away and was stone cold dead.



All of my 54s have been loaded with 535 and .018 patch or 530 with .020 patch. They weren't hard to load. I feel like you need a smaller ball.

That's my view also. I've way lost count of the patch lubes I've used. They all worked fine when used properly.
I would have loved to have seen that Cruiser. And the colorful language that came with that frenzy🤣
 
I have been using the "dry" patch method following Dutch's method shoot n clean. I have only had one gun that would burn a patch, but not destroy it. I solved that issue by using my finger dipping in water then lightly damp the patch before loading at the muzzle. I use ticking and denim from .018 to .023. It sounds like your patch is to thin, just my opinion.
My suggestion to you would be try a smaller ball with the denim patch you mentioned in you original post. Track sells .526 and .520 round ball. Or like I did to dampen your ticking.
As for your ticking being old, not a chance. I've seen guys pull out ticking from the 70's from their stash.
Oh when you make your dry patch, store it in a air tight container. I hope some of this helps.
 

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