Destroyed patches

[westrayer]

Before the T/C 1000+ came out I used patches in a 35mm film cannister and applied melted Crisco to them. The only downside was that after a while the Crisco molded.

 

[mcguyver]

.54 kibler woodsrunner .80 gr scutzen. .530 ball. Using dutch shultz dry patch recipe. ( my patching material is 3 years old if that matters) .013 pillow ticking. My patches are nothing but an ember after shooting. My groups are 3-4 inches at 50 yds. I tried .018 dennim cant even get ball in barrel. Started using it as over powder buffer. I have never had patches burn like this before. It dousnt appear to be cutting patches at bore. The .013 loads great with a good amount of of resistance. Any thicker would be pounding the patched ball down the barrel. Patches are cut at barrel. Tia for any feedback.

Update. I used crisco lubeon my .012 ticking & am putting a denim over powder patch about 3/4” square then loading the patched ball. Seems to be working. Ticking is .018 uncompressed &.012 compressed. Any thicker patch & i cant get the ball started.

 

[hanshi]

You're finding out what your rifle wants to make it work. That's the only way to do it too. I like well lubed patches and use a lot of canvas material for most of my rifles. I much prefer shooting to swabbing the bore so use a patch and lube that allows me to load & shoot for the afternoon with no bore wiping needed. It is a very rare situation that I ever have to wipe the bore. But if I need to I will do it because I like to keep shooting.

The best lube I've found so far is Hoppes BP Lube. I've been using it for years and do not plan on changing. Spit patch works as well but just dries out too quickly. TOW mink oil is hard to beat for a hunting lube. If the rifle isn't fired it can be put up loaded for the entire season. Hoppes is great but I think a Hoppes lubed load should be fired at the end of the day. It's a liquid lube but I never leave my gun loaded more than a day or two.