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Different lubricant

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Ballistol is mineral oil based. There are other ingredients, potassium oleate, ammonium oleate, benzyl alcohol, amyl alcohol, isobutyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, and anethol (where it gets it's licorice smell that some people hate). In WWI, German soldiers not only cleaned their guns with Ballistol, they used it to treat minor wounds and scratches.
in the us, ballistol is not 'medically approved' but in europe, it is used in doctor's offices and hospitals. I had a friend get a case of road rash over there a few years ago. after scrubbing out the wounds, they used ballistol with the dressings. He healed very quickly. In camp and I get a burn, cut or any break in the skin, I wash as best as I can with what is avaiable and grab the can of ballistol. It seems to really work....and yes though I can't stand the smell either, I actually sell it because it works. ..speaking of smells.. I need to go get some oven cleaner to stain some cherry wood
 
Do NOT want to start a firefight! Can someone explain what causes some petroleum products to be inappropriate for muzzleloaders and others (paraffin based?) to be OK. Thanks
 
From youthful experience, petroleum products turn into a sticky tar-like mess in the barrel. This gunk takes a lot of elbow grease to remove…causing lots of swearing, cussing, foul language and emotional consternation to be expressed during the cleaning process.
Sorry, should have been more specific. Been shooting BP for 20yrs, and know about the tar from experience. Looking for an explanation of the chemical properties involved. It's obvious that there are differences between black powder residue produced by a petroleum grease product and a highly refined mineral oil product.
 
I would forget all of the above as commercial baloney. Some of it will work to a degree but none will match or exceed Mr Flintlock. Available in some gun stores but online for sure.
 
Do NOT want to start a firefight! Can someone explain what causes some petroleum products to be inappropriate for muzzleloaders and others (paraffin based?) to be OK. Thanks
nothing wrong with them. Some folks seem to believe that it creates a tar in the bore.. None of them ever looked up what it takes to actually make tar. I would guess, that these guys also do not remove any oil they put down the bore, prior to loading up and shooting?
 
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I have found that after I clean and lube the barrel if I run a loose patch down the bore then use my air compressor over the nipple or touch hole to blow out the patch, I generally have removed any excess bore lubricant so it doesn't settle in the breech area. I still run a patch thru the bore before loading for the first time as a pre-caution.
 
I just stated what's in Ballistol. There are many other cleaners on the market. I will only use what will not harm the wood on my rifles. Some cleaners are very harmful to wood and I stay away from those.
Ballistic works good on wood. Will not harm it.
 
I understand that well. Have two guns with ruined finishes from 'moosemilk' I will never use a concoction again. I'll use soap and water or something that works on wood, leather and metal such as ballistol. Nothing else.
Ballistol is the main ingredient in my moose milk,along with bear grease and oil soap.
 
I only use moose milk to clean my lock, and as a field cleaner every ten-or-so shots at the range or in a match. For my end of session barrel cleaning, I plug my flash hole and carefully pour a mixture of hot water and Murphy's Oil Soap down the barrel and let it soak for a few minutes. After I drain, scrub and dry it, I swab it with a light coat of Ballistol.

This is what works for me. You may do something different that works equally well. Fortunately, cleaning black powder fouling is not really hard and there are dozens of techniques that work.
 
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Guys, if you reread the OP, he starts out referencing Ballistol but the point of his post, the way I see it, is about CLENZOIL. Although he doesn't come out and ask, I believe he may be looking for opinions and info on that product. You all might be better off ending your pissing match about Ballistol (do we really need another Ballistol discussion?) and discussing your experiences with CLENZOIL. If you dont like Ballistol, move on to another topic.
Thanks N.Y. that's really what I would like. I had never heard of CLENZOIL before, and I've cleaned guns since1952 and spent 40 years as a mechanic. When I first started out the go to product was 3 in1 oil. We soon discovered it would get so thick in the winter here in MT., that 22's wouldn't shoot so we used kerosene for a gun lube instead.
Squint
 
Ballistol was in use by the German army from 1905 ,to 1945 . As I have said before the recipe is on the internet . The Dutch army also use Ballistol ,
Before WW2 the Dutch used to give the recipe to their troops stationed overseas so they could make their own .
I have several litres of the Dutch army made Ballistol and it works just like the German made stuff .
I tried to buy Murphy's oil soap here in New Zealand , the agents don't import it as they have the same thing with a different name , Would they tell me the name ? no ! go figure .
If you are really interested in Ballistol click on The Ballistol Story
They also make a very good stock finishing oil .
 
Food Grade Mineral Oil

I worked in a refinery for 35 years. We had a lube oil unit that made NSF food grade oils. The unit was a 2 stage high pressure unit (3000 psi). At 3000 psi, we totally saturated the aromatics, removed all sulfur and all contaminates. The base oil was then suitable for making Johnson & Johnson’s baby oil, suntan oil, cosmetics, food grade lubricants for water fountains, lubricating water well pumps, used in bakeries and was Kosher. We had a Jewish Rabbi come to the unit each year to bless the unit so we could sell our oil as Kosher. So, under normal circumstances, without sulfur and other contaminates, you should have no rust issues. Heat nor age will breakdown the oil. By itself, it will not harm a gunstock finish. There are many good lubricants that will protect you guns. Use what works for you!🐮
 
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