Different ridge pole?

[TexiKan]

A buddy of mine (aka Dances With Fire) "accidently" cut up my wall tent ridge pole for another project. Since my car cannot transport the 10' ridge pole, and because we usually attended the same Rondys and ML events, he would keep my ridge pole at his house and bring it to the camps. Now it is gone and I need a replacement one.

Because it was one long piece of a 2 x 4, we talked about making some kind of hinge or attaching devise so that it can be transported in two pieces in my vehicle. We examined several styles, variations, and patent pending like methods. We found one we would consider.

Meanwhile, I am wondering if any of you guys who use a wall tent (mine is the small version from Fall Creek) have been successful with a ridge pole that is not a 2 x 4? Let's say, a 2 x 3? Was a round ridge pole ever used? Guess I am trying to determine why a 2 x 4 is preferred. I suspect a smaller pole can sag or break. So, before I make one with a type of super-duper-break-down-hinge devise, I thought I'd see what might be the most preferred option, other than a one piece 2 x 4!

TexiKan

 

[J.D.]

The poles for my 9X9 wedge are 2X2s. A friend does use a 2X4 ridgepole cut on about a 30 degree angle that contains about 4 holes for through bolts. The two ends are about 5-6 feet long, when broken down.
I don't remember how long the assembled ridge is.

A hinged ridge pole, with iron straps, top and bottom, long enough to handle a coupla bolts might work too.

Just kinda thinkn'...typn' out loud, so to speak...type.

 

[lonedave]

How about making one with a center section of steel tubing for a sleeve similar to some two piece longbows? You might have to trim down one end of each 5 foot section so that it slipped into the sleeve and use a bolt or pin through each to hold it in place.

 

[Joe Wolf]

I use 2x4 material for a 12' A-Frame tent. It's a 7' piece and a 5' piece with a pair of splice plates that are 2 1/2" high x 18" long x 1/4" thick with 4 bolt holes for 3/8" bolts. A welding shop made the plates for me for $10.

 

[dlpowell]

If you want to use a smaller diameter ridge pole you'll have to go to a denser wood than doug fir thats usually used for 2 x 4s. White oak is very dense, can't drive a nail into it, and HEAVY. Consult your local woodworkers supply or specialty trim wood shop, not Lowes or Home Depot. They won't have it.

 

[TexiKan]

How about making one with a center section of steel tubing for a sleeve similar to some two piece longbows?

Yes, that is probably one of the most common and practical methods seen and used.

Another post also recommends denser wood if one goes with a 2 x 3 or so. That makes sense, too. Does anybody actually have experience with this?

TexiKan

 

[PaulN/KS]

Hey Chris,
I made mine up as a two piece 2x4 and it works fine. I formed a 3 sided sleeve out of some sheet stock and just drilled and bolted them together.
Paul

 

[Gemoke]

I think Tentsmiths makes SOMETHING THAT CAN BE USED TO CONNECT RIDGE POLES FOR ABOUT $20

 

[ameling]

There are 2 main reasons that people use 2x4's for a ridge pole: availability, and strength. You can get 2x4's most anywhere. And they have more strength than a 2x2 (standard dimensional lumber).

I know a number of people that bevel the top corners on their 2x4 ridge pole. So it has a more rounded profile, and fits the canvas a little better with less worry about "corners".

I have an old wall tent from the 40's or early 50's that was used by a fishing camp on the Mississippi river as a "loaner". It's ridge pole is a 2x3 (ripped down from a 2x4. And it is hinged in the middle. They took an old LONG door hinge and bolted it to the two halves. In use, you fold it out, and have the hinge side facing down. After many decades of use, it is a bit "loose", and sags a little. And the two halves want to twist to the side a little easier. I need to replace it on of these days.

But that single hinge does work well. But a few "tips". Get a hinge with long straps on both sides. Have a welder "tack" each loop on the hing so that they cannot pull/bend open. There will be lots of stress on them. I've also know several people to bolt a extra smaller hinge along each side - with the hinge bolt removable. So when they swing it open, those other hinges line up together, and they can then slip a nail through them to lock it all together. If you make the hinge pin removable on all three hinges, then you can pull the pins and handle both halves separately.

I have a 14x14 wall tent built for a carnival. All the frame pieces are made from 2x4's, and all joints are small hinges with nails used in place of hing pins - so you push the appropriate ends together and "pin" the matching hinge halves together to lock it all up. It makes for a pretty solid free-standing tent, and also makes a good food serving tent for local town/church festivals. The sides are split, so the top half can be set out like an awning, and a counter set all around the sides.

Just one of those "tents" I picked up along the way. But it did take most of a day to figure out their "marking" system on all the pieces, and then how to put it together and up all by myself. 14x14 with a pyramid peak top. We used it as an outside "workshop" over at Big River Forge one summer - so we could work on railings and large signs on the bed of the trailer under that tent. Out of the sun and not having to worry about rain.

One word of caution on two-part ridge poles. Whatever method you use to join the two halves (tubing, hinges, straps), carry along extra nuts/bolts and pins!!!!!!!

And if you ever get worried about that ridge pole sagging, just make up an extra upright to take along. If the ridge starts sagging, just push it up into place. Use a short pin on top of that upright, and drill an extra hole to match in the ridge pole. It takes a lot of worry away. And it also gives you and extra pole inside to hang things on or tie ropes/partitions to.

Just a few rambling thoughts to share. Take them as such.

Mikey - that grumpy ol' German blacksmith out in the Hinterlands

 

[mazo kid]

I purchased the splice tube for the ridge on our new 14' wall tent. It was a bit pricey, but I didn't have much time between the time the tent arrived and when we needed it. The ridge pole for the dining fly is 2 pieces of 2X4 with the mating ends each notched half way in depth about 10" or so. Then there are 2 pieces of 1/8" X 1-1/2" strap iron (top and bottom) with 3 holes drilled through the straps and wood. 3 carriage bolts fasten the 2 pieces of wood securely and only 2 need to be removed to break down the ridge pole. You can split how long you want the individual pieces....2-7', 1-6' and 1-8', etc.

 

[mazo kid]

 

[Captain outwater]

My unit had a large wall tent with a 10 foot 2 X 6 ridge pole. It was too long to carry even in my pick up truck, so I cut it in half, put two metal strips, one each side with 3 bolts on each end that I got from Home Depot. I put extra nuts on them. It only needs two bolts each side, so I have two extra bolts, and several extra nuts that way.
Doesn't look very authentic, but it sure works well.

 

[TexiKan]

If you want to use a smaller diameter ridge pole you'll have to go to a denser wood than doug fir thats usually used for 2 x 4s. White oak is very dense, can't drive a nail into it, and HEAVY.

Well, at work we have a room full of odds and ends of all kinds of wood and I found a 1 1/3 x 1 3/4" long piece of oak. Yes, it is much heavier and I am thinking this just might work! I could try and and have the 2 x 4 as a backup, just in case. Anybody using oak?

TexiKan

 

[Sooty Scot]

The 9' ridge for my wedge is a bit different from than those discussed n this thread.

We laminated four strips into two sections, with the grain reversed for strength, with one layer offset in each set, to create a 16" (center) overlap. Initially, I used four carriage bolts to pin the splice together but, after losing hardware often enough, I changed these to "T" nuts, bedded in one section, and flat head screws, for a low profile that wouldn't be obvious or wear the canvas.

This let us use stock which wasn't long enough for the span.
It also let me fit the frame bundle in my truck's bed (the uprights are also made in two sections).

To reduce point stress on the canvas. I also beveled the top edge to a blunt, inverted "V".

The poles were ripped from an old poplar board, and also made with a half lap joint (with a short and a long section (again, dictated by the length of the stock and to keep the maximum piece length under 6'.)

I'm not where I can measure dimensions now, but will add them asap. From memory, the ridge is about 2"x1 1/2" and the poles are about 1 1/4 x 2". The ridge pole isn't much heavier than a common 2 x 4, but much stronger. Poplar isn't ideal for the support poles; it was what my friend had on hand. It's lighter than pine/fir and a bit stronger but is still softer than I'd like.

This setup has served well for about five years, slowly being modified to work better and set easier. It's held strong through a few storms, but the front upright cracked at the joint in an in-line wind storm a few weeks ago. It held; didn't break , just cracked. I was able to whip the cracked section with copper wire for the rest of the event. I've since glued and re-wrapped it - and wrapped that joint on the other pole, as a precaution, but plan to replace them with a stronger hardwood.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

We have 2 wall tents by Panther Primitives, a 10x10 and 10x12 and use the 'ridge pole sleeves' that PP sells. Works like a charm! One tent was setup for 2-years out deep in the woods and had zero issues anywhere with the tent.