DIY caps

[R Ellis]

Slow down a second. First off are you not saying these DIY caps are too dangerous? That seemed to be what you were saying. If so what do you bring to show us that is this dangerous and should refrain from doing do so? Let’s see it. Why is this so dangerous but using store bought is just dandy?

To respond to your hand being in front of the cylinder while loading maybe you need to read up on that, it’s been tested. And guess what, a ball with a 30 grn charge of 3F had just 7 lbs of energy with no barrel ( I don’t know of anyone who awkwardly loads their guns over the barrel) and isn’t even enough to do more than break the skin and leave a bruise. Again, it’s been tested. So what is it you’re saying exactly? You still are rather vague, be more specific please.

When I load my guns it’s powder then projectile, all seated, and then I affix the caps while it’s pointed down range. I’m not sure how you load yours and why it could be so threatening.

I am saying all caps are dangerous on a cylinder with a load of powder and a ball . Any one should know better than to cap a gun first that is what I am saying also better safe than sorry if you dont understand that I cant say it any better .I stated my belief and you have a different opinion so I will cap last and you can cap anytime you want to over and out

 

[rodwha]

I am saying all caps are dangerous on a cylinder with a load of powder and a ball . Any one should know better than to cap a gun first that is what I am saying also better safe than sorry if you dont understand that I cant say it any better .I stated my belief and you have a different opinion so I will cap last and you can cap anytime you want to over and out

Ok, well, we’ve now established that your issue doesn’t seem to be with the making of these caps as the thread is about, but upon loading practice. Maybe I missed this capping prior to loading, I’ve not heard of anyone doing it in that fashion. I certainly don't, and it’s pointed down range or downward that direction when I cap. Capping is always last.

So it seems we’re on the exact same side of the issue you brought up. I thought you were stating making caps was too dangerous, sorry for the misunderstanding.

 

[rodwha]

I am saying all caps are dangerous on a cylinder with a load of powder and a ball . Any one should know better than to cap a gun first that is what I am saying also better safe than sorry if you dont understand that I cant say it any better .I stated my belief and you have a different opinion so I will cap last and you can cap anytime you want to over and out

I see the original poster mentioned trying this. It’s not something I’d recommend. I’d fix the issue with the size by either getting ones that fit better or turning down a set of nipples to work with these.

It’s still not overly dangerous to load in this fashion, though a bullet might well make enough of a difference to make a descent dent. I’m not saying I’d take that chance. In the meantime, before I made the fix, I’d do as he’s doing if it’s working…

 

[Smokerr]

I am capping an empty chamber. Not sure how a cap is going to ignite when putting powder and ball in.

Its not ideal but I don't see it as a serious risk. That said to each their own take on things. It can get blown (pun) our of proportions. Its dangerous driving to the range. The idiots you see at the range can be dangerous (Range Officer threw out one guy who gave him attidute when it was pointed out he violated one of the cardinal rules after the guy refused to back down, acknowledge he was wrong).

I have seen guys there playing gangsters and I have seen guys who have screws loose that they could just as easily turn and shoot someone as look at them.

I have tried to do myself in or others have in aircraft, cars and walking my dog and a moose charge (twice, once on a bicycle that one came after me).

I rode bike trails 11 miles in the dark never knowing if a moose, a bear or a two legged predator would go after me. And there were the two legged type who were beating up homeless people, ran across them 3 x. That sent a shiver up my spine. I crashed 4 times. Broke ribs on one of them.

I look at it and assess it and then do what I think will work and as safe as I can be.

 

[Terrier]

Nevermind… I think I read it wrong the first go…

 

[Smokerr]

Hey guys: I am at my wits ends here with the DYI not working.

Initially it was pretty good, then it dropped off. I experimented with the glue, hair spray and went back to Acetone that was working and they are now unreliable (maybe one in 10 pops off right) the rest not at all or fizzle.

I am wondering about the Chemicals having lost their mojo. They have been stored in shop, mostly 65 deg or less, no direct sunlight, air squeezed out and sealed at each mixing and only mixing one batch at a time (ie, 2 L, 1L, 1S and 1S.

One other aspect that I can correct but has given me issues is the rim on the Bearded Gunsmith printed cups in my 47 Walker. Just enough excess to cause binding (not that I am shooting it right now as caps don't fire but its a bit of an issue)

Thoughts?

 

[BeardedGunsmith]

Hey guys: I am at my wits ends here with the DYI not working.

Initially it was pretty good, then it dropped off. I experimented with the glue, hair spray and went back to Acetone that was working and they are now unreliable (maybe one in 10 pops off right) the rest not at all or fizzle.

I am wondering about the Chemicals having lost their mojo. They have been stored in shop, mostly 65 deg or less, no direct sunlight, air squeezed out and sealed at each mixing and only mixing one batch at a time (ie, 2 L, 1L, 1S and 1S.

One other aspect that I can correct but has given me issues is the rim on the Bearded Gunsmith printed cups in my 47 Walker. Just enough excess to cause binding (not that I am shooting it right now as caps don't fire but its a bit of an issue)

Thoughts?

A few things here. If you don't weigh the chemicals down to a pretty fine unit of measurement, you can get reliability issues with the ratio of the compound. Also, if you're having the cap protruding enough to cause cylinder binding then you likely are using too much compound in the cap itself. There's also the possibility that your chemicals have absorbed moisture from the air or aren't mixed well enough (that's why I mix them wet.) And are you allowing them to dry for long enough?

 

[Smokerr]

I am using your measure device and cross tested with the Reloader 22 cup, yours looks to be spot on.

How do you go about a wet mix?

The binding on the 47 walker is on the inside of the cylinder (ridge it rides on). So the bit of cap sticks sideways on that. I can trim it off and no binding but not resolved the failure to go pop.

I am also testing in an ROA and no issues with bind on that gun but same failure to go pop.

I am mixing the chemicals thoroughly and making sure no clumps.

 

[AlexB]

I

Hey guys: I am at my wits ends here with the DYI not working.

Initially it was pretty good, then it dropped off. I experimented with the glue, hair spray and went back to Acetone that was working and they are now unreliable (maybe one in 10 pops off right) the rest not at all or fizzle.

I am wondering about the Chemicals having lost their mojo. They have been stored in shop, mostly 65 deg or less, no direct sunlight, air squeezed out and sealed at each mixing and only mixing one batch at a time (ie, 2 L, 1L, 1S and 1S.

One other aspect that I can correct but has given me issues is the rim on the Bearded Gunsmith printed cups in my 47 Walker. Just enough excess to cause binding (not that I am shooting it right now as caps don't fire but its a bit of an issue)

Thoughts?

Is it the height or the width?

 

[springfield art]

It seems the unavailabitlity of percussion caps is a frequent topic in this forum. I've been thinking about making my own and wondering what's involved. Just by pure random happenstance, YouTube served me up this video just this morning, which seems to address that question, and I think I'm going to order one of those kits and give it a try:

I admire the guys that have the patience to do this!

 

[BeardedGunsmith]

I am using your measure device and cross tested with the Reloader 22 cup, yours looks to be spot on.

How do you go about a wet mix?

The binding on the 47 walker is on the inside of the cylinder (ridge it rides on). So the bit of cap sticks sideways on that. I can trim it off and no binding but not resolved the failure to go pop.

I am also testing in an ROA and no issues with bind on that gun but same failure to go pop.

I am mixing the chemicals thoroughly and making sure no clumps.

Wet it with rubbing alcohol until it's just pasty and mix the hell out of it. It becomes inert when wetted so you can be quite aggressive mixing it (by hand, no tools.) You'd be surprised how much of a difference it makes when it's thoroughly mixed, especially when wet. And it'll evaporate quite fast and go back to usable powder.

 

[n.h.schmidt]

You can also use water to wet it down. Evaporates much slower and gives you more time. The water does not change anything and when dry the charge will still go off. I don't bother with weighing anything. I just use the scoop that came with the kit. I did leave out the little off white bag though. A workable binder completes the effort. No misfires in the last several hundred used. Fires off Pyrodex especially well too

 

[Smokerr]

If I am tracking this right, mix with Alcohol or water and then let it dry out?

Is it the height or the width?

Its the width, its not much but enough to touch that raised ring at the face on at least the 47 Walker. I don't know about other open top, just have that one.

I just use the scoop that came with the kit. I did leave out the little off white bag though. A workable binder completes the effort. No misfires in the last several hundred used. Fires off Pyrodex especially well too

Does that mean the L2 bag with the powder vs the L2 that has the granular material?

And binder, is that the Acetone in my case?

 

[1stnamebassist]

There is a smaller bag of off white kinda beige colored powder. That’s the binder you don’t need to mix. The other three bags you mix the same ratio as it says on the bag. For a binder use acetone or even better acetone and duco cement mixed about 8 to 1 acetone to duco. When you mix it wet you also put it into the caps wet and lightly compress it. It will dry in about 12 hours then put in a drop of acetone or acetone/ duco mix and let it dry overnight. You should be good to go then.

 

[BeardedGunsmith]

I also just had a realization. My scooper is calibrated for use of the compound without the binder or crushed glass.

 

[AlexB]

I mix dry minus the tan bag and use acetone and duco at 10-1 one drop and have had excellent results.