DIY Rust Blue Solution?

[SPQR70AD]

I tried mostly everything and a blued finish wears and rusts easily. I did a badly rusted A5 with dura coat spray bluing. much more durable then standard blue and 5 years later it looks like the day I did it. it cant rust

 

[muzzlecap]

I tried mostly everything and a blued finish wears and rusts easily. I did a badly rusted A5 with dura coat spray bluing. much more durable then standard blue and 5 years later it looks like the day I did it. it cant rust

I don't find that at all unless maybe one is using the bluing finishes out of a bottle where you just apply and wipe off. Slow rust bluing is usually one of the most durable types of bluing out there .

 

[SPQR70AD]

I don't find that at all unless maybe one is using the bluing finishes out of a bottle where you just apply and wipe off. Slow rust bluing is usually one of the most durable types of bluing out there .

there is not a gun that was blued that I have seen in 40 years that was used in the field not hung on the wall that was not rusted in places and bluing worn. a blued gun rusts in a closet

 

[Dude]

I wonder what's different about the dura blue? My understanding is the cold blue products are some sort of copper layer sitting on top of the metal that corrodes to look black or blue and nowhere near as durable as rust blue. And yes, bluing doesn't absolutely protect the metal, but is porous, thus able to hold oil which will protect the metal.

Ten or fifteen bucks isn't so bad for some rust solution and I'll possibly go that route. I am curious why special solution is necessary since rust will happen all on its own with no help from chemicals? What exactly do the chemicals do? I get that they speed up the process, but why not just put the metal in a steam cabinet, pull it out in an hour, card it, boil it, then do it over again?

 

[SPQR70AD]

I wonder what's different about the dura blue? My understanding is the cold blue products are some sort of copper layer sitting on top of the metal that corrodes to look black or blue and nowhere near as durable as rust blue. And yes, bluing doesn't absolutely protect the metal, but is porous, thus able to hold oil which will protect the metal.

Ten or fifteen bucks isn't so bad for some rust solution and I'll possibly go that route. I am curious why special solution is necessary since rust will happen all on its own with no help from chemicals? What exactly do the chemicals do? I get that they speed up the process, but why not just put the metal in a steam cabinet, pull it out in an hour, card it, boil it, then do it over again?

I think dura blue is an epoxy solution being when you get the can on the bottom there is a button where you press it and the hardener sprays into the can same as 2 part epoxy if you mix it yourself. the can is only good for 3 days then it hardens. so I got 3 guns ready and I still had enough left to coat the worst one 4 times. this A-5 looked like it was found on the Titanic by the diving bell. the guy left it wet in a case for years. you can see a couple of runs behind the bolt. the guy loved it

 

[Dude]

this A-5 looked like it was found on the Titanic by the diving bell. the guy left it wet in a case for years. you can see a couple of runs behind the bolt. the guy loved it

Sounds like amazing stuff. The gun evidently wasn't pitted, unless the dura blue fixed that too. This wasn't your A-5, but a repair for someone else?

 

[springfield art]

I've been looking into getting some rust bluing solution and wonder about making my own. Have any of you come up with your own formula? When a teensy bottle costs $30 plus shipping, are the components that expensive or difficult to find? These concoctions have been around for at least 160 years so they can't be too mysterious.

I think the more common blueing liquids are not that expensive. Please look around on line for commercial ones, whatever that 30 dollar one is must be a doozy!

 

[springfield art]

Remember the days when we still had a little freedom? As a kid I could, and did, walk into the local hobby shop and buy small bottles of the chemicals to re-supply my chemistry set I got for Christmas. I'm pretty sure that's where I got the charcoal, sulfur, and saltpeter that began my early fascination with black powder.

I actually made BP when a kid about 15. I didn't realize you had to wet it to mix the chemicals properly, but it did work to an extent. Bought saltpeter at the local pharmacy, forget where I'd gotten the sulfur or what charcoal I used. Fun!

 

[SPQR70AD]

Sounds like amazing stuff. The gun evidently wasn't pitted, unless the dura blue fixed that too. This wasn't your A-5, but a repair for someone else?

It had some pitting not deep so I sanded it out. I coated it 4 times. I did it for a friend. you can google dura coat and see examples of it. I also re did the stock

 

[Whitworth]

I actually made BP when a kid about 15. I didn't realize you had to wet it to mix the chemicals properly, but it did work to an extent. Bought saltpeter at the local pharmacy, forget where I'd gotten the sulfur or what charcoal I used. Fun!

I think most of us back then did the same thing. Often wondered if old Doc Zimmerman ever knew why all the neighborhood kids bought sulfur and saltpeter . The charcoal was Kingsford briquettes crushed up fine.

 

[Dude]

I must have lead a sheltered childhood - never knew what chemistry sets were good for and all the fun I was missing. I'm jealous of you guys.