• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Do you grease

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Ol Thing

32 Cal.
Joined
Jan 25, 2008
Messages
24
Reaction score
0
Do you grease both sides of your patch, or just the side that comes in contact with the bore?
Seems the patch would get a better grip on the ball, if the ball side was not lubed and your lube would go nearly twice as far.
But, would it cause burn throughs? Thanks!:hmm:

Ol Thing :hatsoff:
 
Ol Thing said:
Do you grease both sides of your patch, or just the side that comes in contact with the bore?
Seems the patch would get a better grip on the ball, if the ball side was not lubed and your lube would go nearly twice as far.
But, would it cause burn throughs? Thanks!:hmm:

Ol Thing :hatsoff:
I thoroughly grease mine through & through with either Natural Lube 1000 or Hoppes No9 PLUS.
And personally...with that raging inferno expanding behind the patched ball with 8000-9000 PSI I'm pretty sure the ball is jammed against the patch pinching it tight against the rifling, squeezing the grease right out of the patch where it contacts it...
 
I grease both sides since I use a wax based lube that I melt. I roll up the strips of patch material and dip in the melted lube and squeeze out the excess. I have also tried lubing just one side of the patch and can't see any difference in accuracy but the single siders do seem to scorch a little more.
 
I cut my patching into strips and lube as a step in the loading process. I wipe the patch on the lube, rub it in with my thumb, and put the lubed side down. I'm fairly sure the pressure of the ball squeezes the lube completely through the patch. I've never had a patch burn through if it was thick enough in the first place.

Storm
 
Ol Thing: I grease my pre cut patches in stacks, greasing one side liberally, then putting it grease side down on a patch with the " dry " side up. I keep going until I have a stack to big to continue, then begin another stack. I have brass containers to hold the patches I need during a shoot, but carry the extras in zip loc baggies. If someone wanted me to be P/C, I would wrap them in wax paper, and then in oiled leather.

This method gets both sides greased, and enough grease is in between both patches to make sure the lube soaks completely through all the patches.

I have never seen any evidence that the patch does not hold the ball tight in the rifling. In fact, every recovered ball shows evidence of the fabric Weave impressed on the lead ball where the lands squeeze the fabric against the lead ball, or vice versa.

The folks who made this lube originally said that you can't use too much of the stuff, and I believe they are correct. The more lube in the bore, the more soft residue remains. If you have too much, you may see some drips at the muzzle when the gun has fired, but that is the worst of it. I have sensed that bore butter seems to get into the steel and make the bore slicker, in subsequent loading. It takes my gun about 4 or 5 shots to get to this point, but after that, loading the ball down the barrel seems to be easier. The first time I noticed this phenomena, I thought my pre-cut patch had slipped off-center, and that explained the easy seating. But, the ball hit in the group at 50 yards. I picked up the patch, and found nothing to indicate it had been off-center. The Next PRB went down as easy as that one did. It also shot to the group, and I pulled out my micrometer to see if the ball diameter was different, to explain what I was feeling. Nope. Not the patch thickness, either. So, its the lube.
 
I rub deer tallow on one side till it goes tru on other side. Free, you can shoot of one deer for long time. Dilly
 
Natural Lube 1000 is what I normaly use. I have a bottle of that Hoppies #9+ but haven't tried it yet. I'm working on a 1/4# container of Bumblin Bear Grease right now, kind of a hard sticky stuff. Don't know if it'd be all that great in the winter, as i'm sure it'd harden up even more out in the cold. Haven't had a chance to get out lately to try this "new to me grease" Have any of you tried it?
 
The lube you use has a lot to do with where you shoot. I do not think that one lube covers all areas of the country.

In the very dry parts of the west and at very high altitudes you are better off with a very wet patch. The wonder lubes grease lubes are very hard to use.
They will often stick in the bore, and will harden in the barrel.

When I am shooting in Texas or down in the low humid midwest I use the dry Teflon "Texas Patch" works OK. I all so use the Texas Patching with a little H#9 Plus in the Az. desert. This is also what I use in the Rocky Mtns.

It also depends on what type of rifle you have. The round bottom rifles seem to like a much thicker patch. In this case you will need a very good lube. My .54 round bottom Rice likes a .024 Texas Patch and a .530 ball. In dry areas I use a very wet patch of H#9 Plus. In a humid area it will shoot just fine with dry teflon.

I have a flat bottom Getz that likes only wet patches its a .54. This rifle shoots a .018 Blue Duck cloth from Walmart. It does not like dry teflon or grease. It will shoot very good using the orange citrus house hold cleaner with a little alcohol as a lube or #9.

Most any of these lubes can freeze at very low temps. I have never found this to be a problem even here in Wyoming.

Just try a number of things that work well for the areas that you are shooting in. If the gun loads easy the ball slides down the bore and you can shoot repeated shots with out cleaning you are home. :thumbsup:
 
Mostly I use the Ballistol and water system, which soaks the patch thoroughly then dries, leaving only a small amount of Ballistol evenly distributed on the patch. When I lube a patch in the field though, it's with Hoppe's and I apply it to only one side of the patch. It soaks through so it's the same as greasing both sides. I have never found a ball that didn't have a pattern left on it by the patch, so I don't think the ball is slipping inside the greasy patch.

Tinker and see what you come up with. If you find a particularly accurate combo, let us know! :wink:
 
I grease them thoroughly. At the range either Bore Butter that I melt in the microwave to lube the patches the night before or Hoppes 9 Plus with an eyedropper at the range as I shoot. Hunting I use mink-oil from TOTW.

I'm going to give alcohol with Murphy's Oil Soap a try for range use when my supply of Hoppes and Bore Butter gets used up. I can get all the 70% alcohol I need from work and the wife keeps Murphy's in the kitchen.
 
I still have a couple of tubs of GAR black powder lube. I melt some in a plastic container in the microwave and let the patches absorb the lube, then squeeze out the excess. Seems to work good for me. I'll be making up some Moose Snot soon to try that out. Emery
 
greetings,

what seems to me to be more important than how many sides of a patch you lube is, which side of the patch goes to the bore..

a lot of material is two sided. that means one side is smooth and the other side is ruff. i use military cleaning patches for the ball patch.

with the ruff side to the bore, it shoots almost a one hole group at 50yds. with the smooth side to the bore it shoots patterns at 50 yds.

soooo.. check if your material has two sides. if it does, then always shoot with the same side to the bore..

..ttfn..grampa..

ps.. one guy at the range had the wierdest group going i ever saw.. checked his patches and they were mixed.. turned out, when he cut his patches, he folded the material then cut a stack with a punch.. that gave him ruff, smooth ruff etc.. when i stacked them all the same way, his groups shrunk to nothing..
 
I use a needle and thread to string mine into a stack. I then melt my lube, and let them soak in it for 30 seconds or so. I put the stack in the little pocket in the back of my pouch and peel them off the stack one at a time.

My lube is 1/3 each lard, bee's wax, and olive oil. In the winter I use more oilve oil to make it thinner. Straight olive oil works fine too.

I clean with Windex, windshield washer fluid, or tepid water. All work equally well.
 
Back
Top