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Does anyone shoot an 1803 Harpers Ferry reproduction?

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I've always liked the looks of the 1803 Harpers Ferry rifle. Plus, the connection (possibly) to the Lewis and Clark Expedition is also neat. Anyway, I bought a .58 Navy Arms version years ago and stuck it in the safe. I decided to drag it out and see how it shoots. Last Sunday, I loaded it with 45 grains of FFFg Goex under a 345 grain SWC. It shot low, which didn't surprise me. It sparked pretty good, but didn't fire twice. The first time, I hadn't plugged the touch hole. The second time, I had inserted a pipe cleaner to keep the fire channel open, but it still didn't fire the first time.

Any thoughts or suggestions? I was priming with FFFg powder.
 
Its always tough diagnosing an issue from 100s or 1000s of miles but here goes: first thought is that the 45 gns may be too light a load for the .54 and your ball is covering the touch hole. If you are using a slug that's even more likely to be the issue.
 
@Muley Gil, I suspect that you have the Zoli or Navy Arms version of the 1803 Harper's Ferry Rifle. These were not well known for the quality of the hardness of the frizzen. I have an 1803 made from Rifle Shoppe parts so my experience won't be of much help.

What is the quality of spark? Is the pan powder igniting?

How wet are you wiping before loading powder?

You need to tell us more about your loading procedure.
 
I did forget to wipe the bore before loading. It has been stored for about 15 years. It sparks OK and the pan priming ignites.

Most of my muzzleloaders are .577/.58 WBTS era reproductions. I used the same loads & loading procedure in the 1803 Navy Arms repro, a semi wadcutter hollow base over 45 grains of FFFg Goex.
 
The rifling in the .58 repros is exactly the same as in their Civil War guns and is best suited for minies so your load should be good. 3f is fine for priming. Those locks are far from ideal but if yours sets off the powder in the pan every time you should be OK. I suggest a thorough cleaning of the bore using brake/carb cleaner (don't let it get on the stock) or alcohol to get all the oil out. It's possible old oil has gotten gummy and that can be a little more difficult to remove. I like to remove the barrel and stand it in a bucket of hot soapy water when cleaning to be sure the passage is clear but if your cleaning fluid runs out the touchhole you should be good. As I remember the breech plug is flat faced, no patent breech.
 
@Muley Gil, I would like to agree with @hawkeye2. Your problems would seem to be from having the touch hole blocked by the old gummed up oils left in the barrel while in storage. The bore needs a thorough cleaning and serious scrubbing of the touch hole and the face of the breech plug to get the rifle to fire.
 
As I read your post, Muley Gil, your rifle is firing--you just have too many flashes-in-the-pan. If your HF does not have a vent liner (which I doubt), your vent channel length will be the thickness of the barrel. That puts the main charge a long way from the priming charge. Try not plugging the vent during loading and then when priming, tip the barrel sideways to bank powder against the vent. Tap the barrel a few times to assist priming powder to run in the vent. Leave powder banked against the vent when firing the gun. There will be those who say ignition is slowed by the fusing but the HF is not a target rifle and doing as suggested will make ignition more reliable. Check your jag/patch combo--if too tight you will push gunk down the barrel and perhaps block the vent.
 
Thanks for the replies, folks. We're expecting 3"-5" of snow overnight, so I doubt I'll see any range time for a couple of days. I do have the advantage of being able to shoot on my own property, so once I get 'er cleaned up good, I'll try again. :)
 
Hi. I have a HF pistol, and it always helps to stuff a little of the 4f I use for priming into the touch hole. I use one of those dental in-between-the-tooth cleaner things to do it. Works like a charm. Also helps to change the flint so you get a good spark
 

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