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take a rod or anything that will reach from the muzzle to the ****/hammer and that fits inside the bore.
run it down the bore and mark the spot at the muzzle.
pull it out and lay on top of the barrel with the mark even with the muzzle. if the opposite end goes past the vent it is unloaded. if it ends an inch or so +/- from the vent/flash hole it should be treated as loaded.
hope this helps
if yu don't want to mess with the gun and fix it up sell it here as many of us old farts love playing with them
 
take a rod or anything that will reach from the muzzle to the ****/hammer and that fits inside the bore.
run it down the bore and mark the spot at the muzzle.
pull it out and lay on top of the barrel with the mark even with the muzzle. if the opposite end goes past the vent it is unloaded. if it ends an inch or so +/- from the vent/flash hole it should be treated as loaded.
hope this helps
if yu don't want to mess with the gun and fix it up sell it here as many of us old farts love playing with them
Thank you! It goes ⅛ to ¼ past hole.thats a big relief! I went to the classified section but since I am new to this forum it said that I was not allowed to post in the classifieds
 

I love the wood. If nothing else, it would make a great wall hanger over the fireplace but for me, I would see how much it would cost to get it in shootable condition. You can refinish the stock yourself, I just did my Hawken. Brass can be polished. Etc., etc. Great looking rifle with tons of potential or just keep it as is and hang it up. :thumb:
 
I love the wood. If nothing else, it would make a great wall hanger over the fireplace but for me, I would see how much it would cost to get it in shootable condition. You can refinish the stock yourself, I just did my Hawken. Brass can be polished. Etc., etc. Great looking rifle with tons of potential or just keep it as is and hang it up. :thumb:
Would this be an example of curly Maple or is it bird's-eye maple I'm really embarrassed at my lack of knowledge on this subject. Also the brass has numbers on it like lot numbers or something from an auction house is that normal or even relevant ?
 
Would this be an example of curly Maple or is it bird's-eye maple I'm really embarrassed at my lack of knowledge on this subject. Also the brass has numbers on it like lot numbers or something from an auction house is that normal or even relevant ?

I've been active in black for about 8 or 9 months after a 30 year hiatus and I couldn't tell you what the wood is. I just know I really like it. As far as the numbers on the brass, I'm not sure what they would be for. I can't imagine an auction house doing something like that but who knows?
 
don't be embarrassed. no one is born with all knowledge, though some act like they were. that is curly maple.
the worst flaw i see is the crack in the stock in front of the feather/frizzen spring. still repairable but is a factor in value.

Curly Maple.... thanks. Now if I can just remember it.
 
I've been active in black for about 8 or 9 months after a 30 year hiatus and I couldn't tell you what the wood is. I just know I really like it. As far as the numbers on the brass, I'm not sure what they would be for. I can't imagine an auction house doing something like that but who knows?
Yeah I think the wood's nice also and has a lot of potential
 
don't be embarrassed. no one is born with all knowledge, though some act like they were. that is curly maple.
the worst flaw i see is the crack in the stock in front of the feather/frizzen spring. still repairable but is a factor in value.
I wouldn't know how to value it. I'm just glad that it's an actual authentic firearm and not some gaudy wall hanging
 
In all earnestness, no sarcasm intended whatsoever, I am so inexperienced with black powder that I wouldn't even know how to do that
to check for load, put the ramrod down the barrel, mark with your thumbnail or a pencil how far it goes in. Pull it out, lay it along side of the barrel with your mark at the muzzle. If th rod tip is about half an inch above the line where the breech plug meets the barrel, the gun does not have a load in it. (if it were loaded, the end of the rod would be somewhat farther up the barrel). (less reliable method) Drop the ramrod down inside the barrel, If it give a metallic click, it is llikely bouncing off the breech plug, a dull ckick indicates it's bouncing off something else (lead or wad?) You could also just try blowing down the barrel and check for air coming out the flash hole. OR... find someone who knows about such things and ask them to check it out. Looks like a potentially nice gun. Well worth fixing up.
 
One way to check for load is to drop a wooden rod down the bore.
Mark where it stops.
Pull it out and lay it against the barrel If it goes all the way to the end like your mark you are probably OK.
If the mark does not line up with the muzzle-goes past it an inch or so, time to look out. Indicates something is inside.
Back in the old days of my youth, there used to be muzzle loaders, usually shotguns, found behind kitchen doors. Sometimes they were still loaded. Heard that from other folks as well.
 
Looks to be an attempt at assembling an early kit gun with a partially precarved stock. I always liked Douglas barrels but the bore of this on looks mighty ruff. It might clean up, though, enough to be serviceable. One other note on the barrel, Douglas drilled their bores end to end using solid octagonal stock. Most had a small amount of run out so they stamped what should have been the bottom flat mainly so when sights were installed, they would work properly. The lock is a Siler and the triggers look like Davis to me....good stuff. They would clean up nicely I think. Someone wanting a project might be willing to make you a fair offer.
 
Looks to be an attempt at assembling an early kit gun with a partially precarved stock. I always liked Douglas barrels but the bore of this on looks mighty ruff. It might clean up, though, enough to be serviceable. One other note on the barrel, Douglas drilled their bores end to end using solid octagonal stock. Most had a small amount of run out so they stamped what should have been the bottom flat mainly so when sights were installed, they would work properly. The lock is a Siler and the triggers look like Davis to me....good stuff. They would clean up nicely I think. Someone wanting a project might be willing to make you a fair offer.
That's great information thank you
 
In all earnestness, no sarcasm intended whatsoever, I am so inexperienced with black powder that I wouldn't even know how to do that
I am in WV ifnyou ate close. You could bring it to farm and I can tell if it’s loaded and pull the ball if so. You have a great working rifle, with some TLC it will be nice! Happy to help
3 Trees
WV
 
Having only fired smokeless weapons, I wouldn't even know how to inspect, clean,or work on this.
if a smokeless barrel rusts no different then your flint barrel. same cleaners used for restoring SP or BP rifles same procedure
 
In the photos, it looks like the wood has not been finished but the shaping appears done. (Some rasp and rough sandpaper marks.). Know anyone with woodworking experience? They could tell you.
 
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