Draw Filing

[SciAggie]

I'm throwing this question out there because there are a number of very experienced builders here on the forum. I have a "drop in" Rice barrel I'm fitting into a TC Hawken stock. I need to do a small bit of draw filing to make it fit better. Then I will need to simply draw file and prepare the barrel for rust blueing.

What size/cut of file do you like or recommend to leave a good finish?

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

I'm throwing this question out there because there are a number of very experienced builders here on the forum. I have a "drop in" Rice barrel I'm fitting into a TC Hawken stock. I need to do a small bit of draw filing to make it fit better. Then I will need to simply draw file and prepare the barrel for rust blueing.

What size/cut of file do you like or recommend to leave a good finish?

Personally I would not draw file to fit the barrel. I would remove wood! Secondly you draw file to remove the tool marks that are left on the barrel from the manufacturing process. I will let someone else answer your good finish question.
Larry

 

[tenngun]

I draw file, but follow up with sanding, using 220,330, 400,then navy jelly and 0000 steel wool

 

[Old-Duckman]

I am not a builder but have done my share of draw filing steel.

I would suggest a 10" smooth cut mill file. A second cut if you want a more aggressive file.

Very important to keep your file clean using a file card. I prefer the type with wire bristles on one side and bristle type brush on the other side. It helps to run a piece of chalk or soapstone over the file as sort of a "lubricant" (can't think of a better word to describe what the chalk does). It helps keep the file from loading up the teeth which leads to pinning. Sorta like the white stuff on some sandpaper.

Probably the most important thing is that if you do not keep your file very clean it can get loaded with steel shavings and gets what is referred to as pins, or pinning. What happens then is that the steel that forms this pinning actually gouges your steel and you have a deep gouge that will require more filing. I know this from painful experience.

 

[Phil Coffins]

Very good advice from Old-Duckman.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

Agreed. Don't use any old file out of the drawer. Spend the ten bucks and buy a new 10" mill file. Another thing to remember is to use light pressure on the file. If you bear down on it it will load up with chips and scratch the barrel. I have a couple of barrels that I browned with no finish other than draw filing and they look pretty good. I thought that I was duplicating a type of finish a backwoods gunsmith might have done. The Rice barrel I used has a nice finish but I think it was ground so it is a little concave on the flats. A little light filing made the flats actually flat. Jim Kibler has a very good video on draw filing. It's well worth watching.

 

[SciAggie]

Thanks for the advice guys. I will take it to heart. I have a file card to keep the file clean. I’ve experienced the file loading with chips on other projects. This gives me confidence. The barrel doesn’t need much work.

 

[Capt. Jas.]

Thanks for the advice guys. I will take it to heart. I have a file card to keep the file clean. I’ve experienced the file loading with chips on other projects. This gives me confidence. The barrel doesn’t need much work.

Is your file card made of brass?

 

[Vaino]

I chalk the file so carding is eliminated......Fred

 

[SciAggie]

Is your file card made of brass?

No. I have the wooden card with the metal comb teeth on one side and the sinthetic brush on the other side. I'm not sure what a brass card looks like or how it differs. Can you explain further?
This is what I have:

 

[akroguy]

Bahco makes good mill files. I have couple and they are used ONLY for barrel draw filing. They do not touch any other parts. Make smooth, easy passes and clean/card the file and wipe the barrel (just swipe with hand) every few passes. I do nothing more than this for a barrel that is to be browned. For a blued finish, maybe polish it a bit more.

 

[oldwood]

No matter what kind of file card used , some of the steel bits still stick in the file teeth. If chalking the file isn't enough to keep the teeth clean , (which it usually isn't) , Put on your magnifiers , take an ice pick and clean the grooves. It'll pay off , with a better draw filing experience. One more note , all steel wool , has oil on it to keep it from rusting before you get it. Best to degrease the piece you're using w/ acetone , then keep the rest in a paper box or oatmeal container , and it will degrease itself , over time. And another thing , To get 24 hour browning , before application of the browning solution , run the prepped barrel lightly over a super fine mounted wire wheel. This ascoriates all oil from the metal....oldwood

 

[waksupi]

You should be removing wood, not steel. I've built hundreds of firearms, many for exhibition at Safari Club, SHOT, and other shows. I never sand past 320 for either bluing or browning. If you take it too smooth, the metal has no "bite" for the chemicals to work on.

 

[SciAggie]

I'm glad I posted. You guys are throwing lots of great advice.

 

[rafterob]

Rice barrels are ready to go, they need no further filing or polishing. With that in mind I would remove wood from the stock, much easier than draw-filing.

 

[SciAggie]

For those advising removing wood, I need to clarify. This barrel only needs the slightest touching up. There is a bit of offset where the breechpug meets the barrel. I bought this barrel used and there are only very slight blemishes and marks I want to remove before finishing. That's the reason for asking about the file because a few strokes is all that I should need to make and I don"t want to create a problem that then needs fixing - so - just asking for advice. I appreciate the concern to remove wood. The few thousandths that filing will remove will make it all match up well I think.

 

[ZUG]

I use a 8 or 10" mill file -second cut or a lathe file. A new one preferred. Light strokes - clean often with a file card like the one shown by SciAggie. I've NEVER found that chalking a file does anything but make chalk dust. If the file gets a "ping" stuck in it I take an Exato #11 blade and pick it out or a pointy scribe. Clean file - light strokes - wipe off excess during the draw filing OFTEN

​

 

[bang]

I'm with Larry Omaha, work the stock. Prep for finish doesn't remove much at all and IMHO I would never remove metal from a barrel for fit purposes.

 

[Artificer]

Agreed. Don't use any old file out of the drawer. Spend the ten bucks and buy a new 10" mill file. Another thing to remember is to use light pressure on the file. If you bear down on it it will load up with chips and scratch the barrel. I have a couple of barrels that I browned with no finish other than draw filing and they look pretty good. I thought that I was duplicating a type of finish a backwoods gunsmith might have done. The Rice barrel I used has a nice finish but I think it was ground so it is a little concave on the flats. A little light filing made the flats actually flat. Jim Kibler has a very good video on draw filing. It's well worth watching.

That and use the "Art of Zen draw filing." This means you CONCENTRATE on putting more light pressure on the "high spots" or where you need to reduce the surface the most.

Yeah, there really is no such thing as "Zen draw filing," but that's how I got my OJT's (apprentices) and one apprentice at the old Gun Shop in Colonial Williamsburg to remember it.

Gus

 

[user 34300]

I use a large mil file. It is held 90* to the flat and pulled. You should get steel wool looking shavings. Use sharpie marker to tell what you are filing. I used to use wire brush file cards. I learned that the hardened steel wire dulls files. Now I used a smashed brass cartridge case to push the pins out of the file . You should no be getting pining anyway. I do not use chalk. After filing I work the barrel with maroon scotchbrite to blend. There is not need to sand it to a fine finish. The browning process will etch the surface and mostly obliterate the filing marks that may remain.