Hey all, I'm curious if this table drill press from Ryobi should be fine for this? Home Depot has it for $99. Thanks.
http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Tools-Bench...isplay_~reviews
http://www.epinions.com/hmgd-Tools-Bench...isplay_~reviews
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Drill for drilling vent hole
- Thread starter kmeyer
- Start date
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MikeChapin
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I have an Ace Hardware table press that could be made by the same manufacturer. It works fine for all drilling operations I do. I just drilled and tapped a touch hole liner into the barrel of my newest project with it.
the drill press i'm getting is a dewalt table top at lowes fer bout 100.00 bucks....i picked this one over all the ones that were at home depot and lowes fer the same price....it has a longer travel then all the others i looked at and it's a dewalt :thumbsup: .................bob
You can get by fine with the plain vice, but don't buy the cheapest one ya can find as they fall apart & when ya back the jaws up the screw will come out of the jaw on the real cheap ones lil Harbor Frgt has. I think the better one I hve cost about $ 20 but it was worth it as the cheap one aggravated the H out of me every time I used it.
One thing ya should also get is a Vice-Grip clamp to hold the vice with. They make one for the drill press & it has a big wingnut on it & bolt that goes thru the table, makes it real handy to use.
The Drill Press you are looking at looks adequate for small jobs. The 1/4 HP is a lil small & will bog or stop easily on a bind with a 1/2" bit in it, as I have stopped my 1/3 HP several times. However, anything over a 1/2" bit is pushing the lil press also. Mine is slightly larger & a small Delta, tho an import for Delta it is a better import than some brands. 12" & 1/3 HP motor. It came from Lowes but don't know what it cost as it was a gift. I used an old one made in the 40's for ? 30 years & mad this new one was such a relief ! It is a 4 speed press & you change speeds by moving the belts. (easy to do, takes 5 seconds)
I figured if I needed a larger one, I would go to a 1 HO floor model.
:results:
One thing ya should also get is a Vice-Grip clamp to hold the vice with. They make one for the drill press & it has a big wingnut on it & bolt that goes thru the table, makes it real handy to use.
The Drill Press you are looking at looks adequate for small jobs. The 1/4 HP is a lil small & will bog or stop easily on a bind with a 1/2" bit in it, as I have stopped my 1/3 HP several times. However, anything over a 1/2" bit is pushing the lil press also. Mine is slightly larger & a small Delta, tho an import for Delta it is a better import than some brands. 12" & 1/3 HP motor. It came from Lowes but don't know what it cost as it was a gift. I used an old one made in the 40's for ? 30 years & mad this new one was such a relief ! It is a 4 speed press & you change speeds by moving the belts. (easy to do, takes 5 seconds)
I figured if I needed a larger one, I would go to a 1 HO floor model.
:results:
Thanks again for all the info. It will be mostly for drilling vent holes. The cross slide vise allows you to clamp it one time to the table and leave it. Then you can adjust the bit to the desired hole location with turn cranks. Here's a pick.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v719/kmeyer9/2d721138.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v719/kmeyer9/2d721138.jpg
Yes, the cross adjusting vise is a great idea, problem is all of them I have found that are worth buying cost in excess of $100. and for drilling a vent that didn't seem worth it to me. Have looked at them at Harbor Freight, flea markets & etc., and the cheap ones I found we so sloppy I could do it by hand better than with the vice.
Maybe someone makes a good one that is cheap but I can't find it.
:results:
Maybe someone makes a good one that is cheap but I can't find it.
:results:
I've been reading the posts, and now that I think about it, I rarely use my drill press for drilling, anymore. More often than not, I use it as a lathe for turning screw heads, etc. I made a tool for drilling between centers that works fine. For vent holes, I just punch the location of the hole, drill, and cone from the inside with a Dremel tool and round bur.
It also works well for sanding if you chuck a 1 1/4 ir a 2 1/2 inch diameter expanding rubber sanding arbor in it.
You can buy several different grit sanding drums for the arbor and they work well for everything from roughing to finishing.
I would suggest screwing a 1/4 inch thick piece of plywood with a 2 3/4 dia hole in it on the drill presses table.
This allows you to lower the drum into the hole so that the end of it is just below the surface of the wood.
The wood provides a nice surface (which is square with the axis of the chuck) to slide your part around on.
Although this would be somewhat awkward when dealing with rifle stocks, it works very well for rough shaping pistol stocks which were sawn out of a block of Maple.
You can buy several different grit sanding drums for the arbor and they work well for everything from roughing to finishing.
I would suggest screwing a 1/4 inch thick piece of plywood with a 2 3/4 dia hole in it on the drill presses table.
This allows you to lower the drum into the hole so that the end of it is just below the surface of the wood.
The wood provides a nice surface (which is square with the axis of the chuck) to slide your part around on.
Although this would be somewhat awkward when dealing with rifle stocks, it works very well for rough shaping pistol stocks which were sawn out of a block of Maple.
Chronos,
The vent hole is the hole in the barrel on a flintlock where the fire from the pan enters the barrel and ignites the main powder charge.
These vent holes range from a simple 1/16 hole drilled through one side of the barrel, to a hole with the inside chamfered or ground out to allow more powder access to the spark. To the screw in ventliner which is preshaped to allow excellent ignition. Or they should be but all are not created equal.
The Chambers White Lightning is one of the best. If not the best.
The vent hole is the hole in the barrel on a flintlock where the fire from the pan enters the barrel and ignites the main powder charge.
These vent holes range from a simple 1/16 hole drilled through one side of the barrel, to a hole with the inside chamfered or ground out to allow more powder access to the spark. To the screw in ventliner which is preshaped to allow excellent ignition. Or they should be but all are not created equal.
The Chambers White Lightning is one of the best. If not the best.
"
While I know how to drill metals, What is a vent hole?"
They are talking about the "vent" in the side of the barrel of a Flintlock.
This is the hole that the pan flash goes thru to set off the main charge in the barrel.
Most (OK, all) of the commercial Flintlock rifles seem to have real little tiny vent holes when they are new.
These slow down the ignition to the point that you can really notice it. They also often keep the main charge from firing, giving you the often heard of "flash in the pan".
If the hole is enlarged to 1/16 or 5/64 of an inch in diameter,
A properly loaded and primed Flintlock will fire much faster.
So fast, in fact, that by the time you hear the flint hit the frizzen, the gun has fired.
While I know how to drill metals, What is a vent hole?"
They are talking about the "vent" in the side of the barrel of a Flintlock.
This is the hole that the pan flash goes thru to set off the main charge in the barrel.
Most (OK, all) of the commercial Flintlock rifles seem to have real little tiny vent holes when they are new.
These slow down the ignition to the point that you can really notice it. They also often keep the main charge from firing, giving you the often heard of "flash in the pan".
If the hole is enlarged to 1/16 or 5/64 of an inch in diameter,
A properly loaded and primed Flintlock will fire much faster.
So fast, in fact, that by the time you hear the flint hit the frizzen, the gun has fired.
