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Dry Patches

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bads1buell

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I made a batch of "Moose Snot" yesterday and tried it out earlier today. My question is do you lube both sides of the patch or just the side going down the bore? I only put it on the bore side but then thought that it may need lubed on both sides.
 
The lube has to be on the bore side to work. I guess it doesn't matter if it's on the ball side or not. I lube both sides so I don't have to pay attention to whether the patch is right side up or not.

HD
 
If I ever use up all the bore butter I have, I will be using Moose snot. When I lube patches, I lube one side, then stick another patch on the lubed one, and lube the other side of that next patch. I continue doing this until I have a stack of a dozen or more patches. They then go into the microwave oven and I zap them in 5 second bursts until I see the lube coming through that top side that I didn't lube. Then I check the bottom patch, and if the lube has not yet come through that patch, I put the stack back in the oven and zap it again a time or two.

You will find that getting the lube to penetrate completely through the cotton fibers of the patch makes for a more consistent patch/ball load. By heating the patches up( you can put them out in direct sunlight to achieve the same thing as I do with the microwave) you evenly distribute the lube, and any excess is either shared with patching that has too little, or melts in to the plate on which you put the stack. The melted lube can be used to grease a few more patches( Boy, am I CHEAP! :rotf: :surrender: :thumbsup: )

This does require you to do all that greasing of patching material a day or so before you go out to the range.

When I began shooting, I had Hoppe's #9 Black Solve and cleaner, or SPIT. Since I was mostly shooting club matches, I put the pre-cut patches in my mouth to wet them with spit. The Hoppes was only use in the field, and I found that a more solid lube was much less likely to spoil my powder charge over hours of hunting without shooting, than does a liquid lube. I also found that a spit patch, left in the barrel too long, would cause rust to form where it contacted the bore.

I still use spit on the range when I know I am going to shoot the shot soon,-- within a minute or two-- but I don't use spit any more when hunting. Bore butter does a much better job. Moose snot will do just as well, and its cheaper! :blah: :hatsoff:
 
I myself have found the best results using a thick loading block loading the ball and patch dry, then putting a mixture of 80% lard 20% beeswax on the patch side of the block filling the cavity. This way the patch side against the ball remains dry and the side against the barrel is lubed at loading. This allows me to get every thing ready in advance and lube the patch at loading with out messing with the lube every shot. Remember you want the patch to grip the ball and slide smoothly up the barrel.
 
You will find many target shooter shoot dry patches. The Texas Patching is a teflon coated patch. You wipe the bore each time before loading this type of patch. They will with the right loads provide outstanding accuracy.
In very dry areas with very low moisture you may need to lube the patch. This is done by rubbing water on the inside of the patch with your thumb.
Yes on the inside ball side then the ball pressure going down will soak thru the teflon to the bore. These are made from sail cloth and have a thin coating of teflon. I shoot the .024 and you can not burn thru these patches. :thumbsup:
 
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