Duck Hunting with an Original Fowler

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I have a few original fowlers/shotguns (both single and double barrel) and was thinking of trying them on duck. I'm thinking steel shot would be hard on those old barrels, but what have any of you done in this situation. I know bismuth may be an option, but it is expensive. I do own a reproduction Navy Arms double with modern steel and chrome lined bores, but I would really like to try my luck with one of my originals if possible. Any advice of suggestions would be appreciated.
 
A little off topic,but still consistent with OP .

How does bismuth act with jug choke ? I've never shot Bismuth,I bought some week or two ago thinking I just might try to shoot a duck or goose this year.

I don't even have a jug choke,but seriously considering having it done.

I believe it's roughly 10 % lighter so my thinking was a fella could go to a larger size shot and just add a little more by volume of bismuth to keep good pellet count.

As expensive as bismuth is I'd like a idea what to expect,before I start trying to find a load .

Thanks in advance for any info.
 
I have a few original fowlers/shotguns (both single and double barrel) and was thinking of trying them on duck. I'm thinking steel shot would be hard on those old barrels, but what have any of you done in this situation. I know bismuth may be an option, but it is expensive. I do own a reproduction Navy Arms double with modern steel and chrome lined bores, but I would really like to try my luck with one of my originals if possible. Any advice of suggestions would be appreciated.
I use Rotometals Bismuth/tin in my Pedersoli SxS 12ga. It smacks ducks and geese just fine out to 40 yards or so.

RotoMetals Bismuth Non Toxic alternative to lead
 
A little off topic,but still consistent with OP .

How does bismuth act with jug choke ? I've never shot Bismuth,I bought some week or two ago thinking I just might try to shoot a duck or goose this year.

I don't even have a jug choke,but seriously considering having it done.

I believe it's roughly 10 % lighter so my thinking was a fella could go to a larger size shot and just add a little more by volume of bismuth to keep good pellet count.

As expensive as bismuth is I'd like a idea what to expect,before I start trying to find a load .

Thanks in advance for any info.
Why would it act any differently than other shot?
As long as whatever you have around the shot, if anything, let's the pellets open up inside the jug I can't see any reason why one material would be different than another.
 
Early on the problem with Bismuth was that it was brittle and the pellets would break apart. I believe that this problem has been solved. I have bagged several waterfowl with Bismuth and can attest to it's effectiveness. I have also used Kent Matrix ammo which is Tungsten/Polymer in #1 shot with success on big geese. I have no idea if this shot is available commercially, Steel has been improved but still sucks compared to pure lead.
 
you can always use a modern shot cup with the steel with an over card/wad. this will protect the barrel from the steel and help with patterns somewhat. You do leave a bit of plastic residue in the barrel as others will jump on me for - but it cleans up just fine when you clean the gun properly. This is what I do in a fowler for ducks/geese. Defiantly don't risk is with Ole'Mr. Green Jeans.
 
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ill bet they are on to that and could have you pull your load. they wont be happy after being lied to. :oops:
Right? I may try the plastic shot cup. I've used them before in my black powder cartridge shotguns and they do leave residue, but for the amount of shots I'd get off, it shouldn't be too bad. With my black powder cartridge shotguns, I'd cut the bottom plastic part off so I was left with just the cup. I load powder, over powder card, fiber wad, plastic cup followed by an over shot card. I would think that should work in my muzzle loading originals. The plastic shot cup should protect the softer barrels. What think ye?
 
I know with steel shot, you shouldn't use full choked barrels, but does that rule apply with Bismuth?
I believe that full chokes should not be used with large steel shot such as BB's and larger. I have a neighbor and friend who squirrel hunts on federal land with #3 steel shot and kills lots of squirrels with a full choke and no problems.
 
Early on the problem with Bismuth was that it was brittle and the pellets would break apart. I believe that this problem has been solved. I have bagged several waterfowl with Bismuth and can attest to it's effectiveness. I have also used Kent Matrix ammo which is Tungsten/Polymer in #1 shot with success on big geese. I have no idea if this shot is available commercially, Steel has been improved but still sucks compared to pure lead.
From what I've read, they now add about 6% tin to the bismuth to help solve the brittle pellet problem.
 
BPI sells SperoBismuth it is state of the art Bismuth that is really round. Original Bismuth had many odd shaped pellets so patterns were iffy. If you do decide to shoot steel use BPIs TPS wads as this will be your best bet to protect your barrel. I personally use bismuth 4 for ducks in South Florida and 2s and BBs for ducks and geese up north. Remember when the MAN catches you using lead it’s Federal not State and when the magnet comes out you better have your steel in your underwater!!!! Hope this helps, Reds
 
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