• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Dumb question?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Dumb questions are asked by the below:

1. Spouses
2 Children
3. Bosses

I keep a 3 or 5 ring binder.

In it, is pertinent information for shooting in general and specific to each rifle and pistol.

The first section contains information such as which way to move the front and rear sights. It contains information on each mold such as diameter of each and the number of grains for each mold. Wind drift and elevation to 100 yards.

Next section is specific to each rifle and pistol. Make and model number of each, serial number of each, ball size, cap size, nipple size and thread diameter, and number of grains of powder, (minimum and maximum), powder grains for 25, 50 and 100 yards, patch diameter and lube . The book leaves nothing to chance nor a failing memory.

Each shooting venture is written down with comments.
I also keep a detailed notebook of handloads,powder charges,lube recipes,patch diameters,etc. But most everything at work, I just "wing it". At least I have my priorities sorted out.
 
thank's for posting it. as I also forgot which way to move the rear & front sight?
 
Just put adjustable sights on it and be done. My CVA Bobcat was C R A P to shoot until I had TC adjustable sights put on. Then it was a different rifle I could actually hit with.

As to sight adjustment: rear sights moves as you think it would, front sight is opposite.
 
Sorry, as a high school teacher, I beg to differ that there are no dumb questions! LOL


There are no dumb questions. There are, however many dumb answers; fortunately none have appeared in this thread. I hope you have learned what you needed.
 
I just visualize a pair of cross sticks pinned together in the middle. with one stick being the sighting plane and the other being the bore direction. Works for both windage and elevation.
 
Move the rear sight in the direction you want to move the bullet strike. The front sight - just the opposite. It ain't deffi ... difi ... hard.
 
Thanks everyone for the help. I have learned that I need to move both and I need to make notes and leave the notes in the gun safe where I can find them.
 
This chart is from Marble. It takes the mystery out of moving iron sights. The columns are the distances between the front and rear sights. The measurements indicate the amount needed to move the point of impact at 100 yards. Double the figure for 50 yards, etc.

Sight Correction.jpg
 
Thanks dlidster

Marble is a great old company
They retooled and changed with the times

I have a cool Marble camp axe from the
30s
Got it from an old Eagle Scout

Jim in La Luz
😎
 
Rear sight moves in the direction you want the POI to be. Front sight moves from INEDNED POI to actual POI on the target (from aiming point to where the projectile hit)
 
I think the confusion comes from the fact there are two opposite ways of looking at this.

There's the gun and its Point Of Impact. And then there's the sight and the intended POI.

Either bring the gun and POI around to match the sights, or move the sights to match the POI.

You need to assign one of them as a stable, unmoving force, and adjust the other to match it.

Since the sights are movable, they need to be adjusted to match the POI. If the POI is to the left, the sights are obviously 'looking' to the right. They need to be adjusted to look more to the left where the bullet is actually hitting.

You can use the sights as the stable reference, but it's more confusing that way.
 
Back
Top