Dutch Schoultz and Blackpowder Accuracy

[necchi]

So has everyone now gone to Ballistol now that the orginal cutting oil is no longer avaiable??

Don't know if everyone has, I started with the Napa cutting oil and it worked in application but as another poster said the Napa affected storage, it seemed my treated patch didn't work well after just a few months storage.

Is there one ratio between ballistol and water that gives the best results?

Not really, the thickness of the fabric you use is a variable.
Start with short sections of fabric (enough for 5 shots) your testing for group anyway's.
For the experiment;
I'll mix with a tablespoon measure something like 1 oil - 5 water,, dip/saturate the cloth and lightly run it through your fingers,,
Then add 1 more water to make 1-6,, repeat
Then add 1 more water to make 1-7,, repeat

The most common error I've seen guy's do is squeezing too much of the lube/water mix out of the fabric before drying,, if it's all squeezed out not enough of the lube is left on the fabric.
Run a strip lightly through your fingers and leave the fabric saturated.
I'll lay out aluminum foil on a flat board for the evaporation phase. Overnight to 24hrs is usually enough, I'll flip'm once during the process too.

 

[Rifleman1776]

it seemed my treated patch didn't work well after just a few months storage.

Ditto on that experience. And, it can't be successfully remoistened then dried again.
Make enough only for use over, maybe, two months.

 

[Dr5x]

Dear Rat Trapper..
I told you along with the material to NOT HESITATE toast me any questions.
Yes there is an exact ratio of Ballistol to Water But it will be exact for that one rifle. A different barrel might require slightly adjusted mix.
ReRead the material. It is all there.

Dutch

 

[Dr5x]

The Old time Water soluble oil looked (to me at least) the same as 20 or 30 weight motor oil.
It smelled like motor oil and in all ways except one I could see no difference.
That one way was that when you mixed a shot or two in water it turned to a milky white color.
A peculiarly picky correspondent of mine said that he found that Mobile had a very good water soluble oil that worked perfectly.
What it name or designation was I can't remember.

What happened was that the wizards who work with such stuff developed a substitute (Undoubtedly called an improvement) that did not use petroleum as a base but something on the order of Glycol (a guess) . Some was green, blue or even a fetching pink. I am certain these would work marvelously well as a grinding and cutting lubricant.
They do not work well as a shooting patch lubricant.
One Minnesotan made up some patching with this new formula and did startling ly well on day one before they had completely dried apparently but on day two the patches were dry as toast, accuracy went to pieces and two fires were started halfway down range.

If you can find the real stuff that would be great, I bought mine at a an Specialty Oil company that I have come to think might have been Org Crime money laundering spin off.

However, as the Gentleman who wrote the very lengthy Must Read letter on my web site Ballistol if used in the same way works as well.

I have been told that I waited too long for a cataract operation so my spelling should continue to be creative and occasionally amusing. Apologies.

Dutch S.

 

[Dr5x]

Necchi has given you the entire Dry Lube System.
I must send him a bill.
My description takes 3 and part of 4 pages to explain.

Good luck with his version.

I used to tell people to store their dry lubed strips in thereat black plastic container that Photo film came in.

They no longer exist and, if Necchi agrees, would suggest that you find some old people if you are not one and collect those empty orang plastic pill bottles that there expensive medicine comes in. I pitch a few out every day. They have twist tops that close tightly to prevent moisture affecting the pills and they should do equally feel in keeping your shooting strips pretty much in good shape.
The ones I prepared with the WS Oil would last about a year plus a few months. I always ran out before much longer so I don;t know their actual shelf life.

Dutch and Necchi

 

[necchi]

The cover letter I got with the System said I was #283 if I remember proper,
Been using it quite successfully for years Dutch,
I Thank you,

Many Trophies and and Blanket shoot picks have come my way because of the knowledge and understanding I received from you.
It moved me from being a so-so shooter into that top percentage, you know the guy's the other shooters who are using the sytem or some variation of it.
It's all much more than just the lube mix, it's the method of evaluating the rifles likes,,

Back in the day when I was trying to figure it all out and swaping emails with you we'd talk about Big Stone lake.
Your successfull student,
John in Minnesota

 

[cynthialee]

If you were to type the following into a search engine: film canister for sale
you will find plenty of folks that will sell them to you.

on ebay, 100 for 15$ seems to be the average price.

 

[Rat Trapper]

For those old film cans all ya need to do is go to one of those places that devolp film and ask for them they are free.

 

[cynthialee]

I haven't seen a film development shop in a long time.

 

[izzyjoe]

man that stuff went out with casette tape's, i used to get mine at wal-mart, but everything's gone digatal now. pill bottles are the best. when you go to pick up a scrip just ask the pharmasist, and they will give you an extra bottle. tell them you want big one!

 

[plinker]

Both Fuji and Kodak package their 35mm color film in transparent or translucent plastic containers. Because of the differences in lid design the Kodak containers will hold a little bit wider strip. Wal-Mart and Costco both have on-site film processing (as so some camera stores) and you should be able to get containers from them.

The mentor I had before I read Dutch's writeup had a slightly different formula. 1.5 oz of water soluble oil + 1.5 oz of Murphy's Oil Soap + 13 oz of water. This has worked well for me but I will try different dilutions of the Ballistol when I run out of the batch I made back then. I got the NAPA Soluble Cutting and Grinding Oil 765-1526 which is a dark amber in color and turns white when diluted. It is manufactured for them by AGS Company of Muskegon WI. It has worked well for me and has lasted for well over a year without drying out when the strips are stored in the above film containers. I soak my strips in a container of the above, Squegee it between my fingers and let it dry on a flat surface. Then I do it again for a double dip.

 

[Stumpkiller]

I haven't seen a film development shop in a long time.

I've got a couple screw top aluminum 35mm film canisters I carry cottonball/Vaseline firestarter fixins in. ;-) They go back to the 60's & earlier.

I used to work at Anitec (Was GAF, was Ansco, was Scoville - that supplied Mathew Brady in the Civil War) and Ilford.

 

[Dphar]

So has everyone now gone to Ballistol now that the orginal cutting oil is no longer avaiable?? Is there one ratio between ballistol and water that gives the best results? I do have copy of Dutch's system, but still have a few questions.

Bought this to make flood coolant for a barrel I was profiling. What's left works good at 7:1 for patches.
Pretty blue color too.

Dan

 

[Rat Trapper]

Well we still have film being devolped around here. I have several big bags of the things out in the garage. I use them on my trap line every fall to put lure in. I use them for my SD cards when running the trail cams as well.

Dan I also remember the alum film cans from back when I was in Vietnam.

 

[cynthialee]

you can still get the aluminum cans if you look online for them

 

[Dr5x]

Moose Milk Recipe I got from an old fellow in 1972 or 3.
I used a shot glass as my unit of measure.
1 Shot of Water Soluble Oil or Ballistol
1 Shot of Pinesol or Lestoil, (an amber detergent smells like
turpentine available everywhere in US , Different names in
Overseas venues
2 Shots of 3 % Hydrogen Peroxide available in drug and
grocery stores.
22 Shots of water.

I would mix all this stuff and store in a former gallon milk container.

In my desire to keep water out of any and all gun barrels I suggest that this an any Moose Milk be used ver sparingly, only dampening the wiping patch.

I keep reading of people wiping with first a wet patch and then a dry patch, Maybe several dry patches.

The hazard with that practice is that excess water will run into the breech from the wet patch that the following dry wiping patches can't completely absorb. Particularly in rifles with a patent breech.

 

[Dphar]

Moose Milk Recipe I got from an old fellow in 1972 or 3.
I used a shot glass as my unit of measure.
1 Shot of Water Soluble Oil or Ballistol
1 Shot of Pinesol or Lestoil, (an amber detergent smells like
turpentine available everywhere in US , Different names in
Overseas venues
2 Shots of 3 % Hydrogen Peroxide available in drug and
grocery stores.
22 Shots of water.

I would mix all this stuff and store in a former gallon milk container.

In my desire to keep water out of any and all gun barrels I suggest that this an any Moose Milk be used ver sparingly, only dampening the wiping patch.

I keep reading of people wiping with first a wet patch and then a dry patch, Maybe several dry patches.

The hazard with that practice is that excess water will run into the breech from the wet patch that the following dry wiping patches can't completely absorb. Particularly in rifles with a patent breech.

I keep the wet patches in a sealed container, a small wide mouth plastic jar, so they are equally soaked, not really all that wet. Certainly not dripping, "heavily damp" I suppose. As you say a little too much water can cause problems.
I use heavy diaper flannel for patches. Its more absorbent than the store bought stuff which is often like old GI stuff. This dries the bore better.
If I get too much water in the patches I squeeze it out with the jar inverted. I always do this the day or several days before the shooting so the patches are all the same or as close as possible.
Applying the water or what ever as the patches are used is a recipe for problems since they will invariably be some that are too wet. Water exiting the vent is a bad sign...
Having uniformly wet (damp) patches then wiping uniformly leaves a uniform bore.
I do not use a really tight jag for this either.
Dan

 

[Stumpkiller]

I load with a beeswax based lube, wipe occasionally with a spit damp patch and clean with a Moose Milk type solvent (link below) - or more often just a bit of Murphy's Oil Soap or Pine-Sol in water followed by a good wipe down with Sheath (Barricade).
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/203261/

 

[ihuntsnook]

I generally wipe between shots with 1 and 1/2 inch squares of dry paper towel. Seems to work. The paper towel seems to absorb any moisture, and I believe it's hard to beat for being consistent. I adhere to Dutch's method of patch lubrication, and so far for me, it has exceeded expectations. It really is all about consistency.

 

[screamin]

Well I have to admit that Dutch's system got me thinking in a completely different direction and everything just fell together. After two afternoons on the range I'm shooting 5 shots groups with all holes touching at 50 yards. I still have a couple of other things I want to try out, but this is the best this gun has ever shot. I'm glad I came across this thread and got the system, otherwise I'm sure I'd still be struggling to figure this muzzy out. Thanks guys!