Dutch's waterless cleaning method

[Jarikeen]

Came across an interesting link on this forum. Does anyone use Dutch's waterless cleaning method with success, that is, not using water to clean the barrel at the end of the day, but swab clean with moose snot and then lube with WD40. What about the ignition port in the breech and drum?

 

[jan buck]

i use this method of cleaning. i can run a patch down any of my blackpowder guns and clean white patches come out. it works! i take out the nipples and spray them down then clean with a tooth brush. i don't use any water. imo, water is the enemy of steel. i use a patch rolled on a .30 cal cleaning brush for the nipple channel. about twice a week i'll run another wd40 patch down the barrels. dutch has some good shooting info too. made a believer out of me. chopper

 

[roundball]

"...about twice a week i'll run another wd40 patch down the barrels..."

How long do you have to do this?

 

[John Meeker]

Short of a moose -- rare on the Western End of Lake Erie -- where/how do I obtain/make the snot stuff?

TIA

 

[jan buck]

rb, about four times. i cleaned my hawken on oct. 18th after shooting. since then have run 5 patches down the bore including the one i just did to more or less confirm it would come out clean. it did. i mainly run the patch down the bore after cleaning out of curiosity to see if it 'works'. because i was sceptical. don't want that new gm barrel rusting :grin: i'm not against anyone using the water method. all i know is i'd pull orange patches, now white ones. dutches idea is that water got into the microscopic pores in the bore and started the rusting. wd40 now fills the pores preventing it. when i bought my hawken or won it off gun broker the description said 'bright shiny bore'. when i received the gun it had a rusty barrel. i had the gm barrel already, and i did email the seller but never heard back from him. my point is, i began to clean the old tc barrel, preQLA, and really had to work it over with a brush and wd40. in fact i doused it and let it sit for awhile. i now pull white patches from it. i haven't shot with this barrel yet. but i will just to see how it shoots. chopper.

 

[tom hargrove]

what is moose snot and what is the procedure for this cleaning method

 

[Greenmtnboy]

At rondys I don't use water to clean between comps.
But I am a ferm belever that if you want your gun completly clean, expecally if you have a paten breach, you must give her the the hot water treatment for a complete clean. :hatsoff:

 

[Slamfire]

I used to use very hot water, then one day I couldn't find my gloves, and couldn't hang on to the barrel. Now I use hot tap water and flush with 91% alcohol. A leetle more trouble but it works. :winking:

Moose snot, milk or juice, pretty much alike. Here's one recipe:
Stumpy's Moose Juice

 

[Stumpkiller]

The Snot is a lube. You're diluting the fouling but not removing it except through mechanically sloughing it off the barrel. The Moose Juice is a better choice for removing fouling. I "formulated" it so wiping with Moose Juice followed by hot soapy water would clear the barrel. Then dry and oil the barrel, or slather it up good with the Snot. But if it's working for you, have at it.

The recepies:

Stumpy's Moose Juice

A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using

Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.

I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry between. Makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is.


Stumpy's Moose Snot

A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block

Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.


Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.

Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.

 

[Old Charlie]

I got the Lancaster out today and did some shooting. I finally got one of those flush tube things to clean it with. I started cleaning and got some yellow stuff out of the barrel. I thought flash rust, this has never happened before. I cleaned and cleaned but was still getting the yellow stuff. I finally realized it was the EEOX I was using to lube after the water bath that I was seeing .After dry patching a number of times it came out white.
Old Charlie