Your forearm is very slab sided as well, it should have a gentle arc about it.
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early virginia update
- Thread starter mike garner
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hanshi
Cannon
Follow the good advice from these guys. I'll be looking forward to viewing the finished rifle.
mike garner
40 Cal.
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hanshi, you are right there has been good advice and great help here. and I am looking forward to the finished rifle to, I am in the home stretch now,,,,,,
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Hi,
Here are some examples of lock panels. The earlier the style of gun, the thinner the panels.
dave
Here are some examples of lock panels. The earlier the style of gun, the thinner the panels.
dave
I have found one of these contour gages from Lowe's to be invaluable to getting a perfect arc from side to side while shaping a stock.
In the picture I am using it to shape the handle of an osage bow. I have everything just about even side to side.
In the picture I am using it to shape the handle of an osage bow. I have everything just about even side to side.
Col. Batguano
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The fore end still looks pretty chunky. Can you still pull off that nose cap? Your sidewall margins still look like around 3/16"-7/32" Until you are getting down to around 1/16"-3/32" of thickness it's still going to look "cheeky". Did you put a bit of an "S" bend in the transition from the buried RR to where it "floats" above the wood and MC?
Dave P. and 54 ball already covered lock plate margins / lock panel size. How are you doing the transition curve? A lot of people start out with half round files, put in a preliminary curve, and then adjust it with rounded scrapers to make it more abrupt in certain areas, and more gentle in others.
Dave P. and 54 ball already covered lock plate margins / lock panel size. How are you doing the transition curve? A lot of people start out with half round files, put in a preliminary curve, and then adjust it with rounded scrapers to make it more abrupt in certain areas, and more gentle in others.
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