Easiest finish to apply

[LME]

90% technique , and 10 % materials. Would never take more than a week to put a good finish on a rifle stock.

If that long!

 

[James Kibler]

I agree with above comment. Technique far outweighs the product. Lots of finishes can give good results.

 

[BadDaditood]

Like any quality paint job it’s 90 percent prep 10 percent finish.
I’ve used a lot of different clear wood finishes in the past 50 years- from spar varnish to lacquer to hand rubbed oil to thick resin.
My current favorite for a satin finish is Tried and True Varnish Oil. Used according to directions I get a very good look in 4 or 5 thin coats with a foam brush. (I can’t seem to find a “lint free” cloth anywhere on my property.)
Directions say you can get a gloss with more coats, but I’d go with less coats of another product.

 

[fiddler]

I have had success with Linspeed. Truoil seemed a bit too glossy for my taste.

 

[James Kibler]

One bit of advice with the Tried and True varnish is to spread or “stretch” it as far as possible. You really want each coat to be about as thin as humanly possible.

 

[Coinneach]

Use a rag, put it on in even coats, wait for it to dry, apply 3 coats. Hand rub it in.
1-2 more coats for what sheen you wish.
Been using Matco Tung oil for decades. Makes my stocks look like furniture.

Tru Oil sux. I used it on a M1 stock and it was not matte it was butt shiney.
One of my winter projects is to take it down and re do the finish.

This is a matte finish with Tung Oil

Yep, I gave up Tru Oil for the same reason, went to Feast Watson Tung oil and will stick with it.

 

[FlinterNick]

Use a rag, put it on in even coats, wait for it to dry, apply 3 coats. Hand rub it in.
1-2 more coats for what sheen you wish.
Been using Matco Tung oil for decades. Makes my stocks look like furniture.

Tru Oil sux. I used it on a M1 stock and it was not matte it was butt shiney.
One of my winter projects is to take it down and re do the finish.

This is a matte finish with Tung Oil

Sounds like you put too much on.

I use very thin coats of tru oil and work it back with steel wool for blending.

On a stock that has been finished or a refinish, i woudl cut the oil with spirits by half and apply with a magic eraser, let each coat dry for 1 hour in a heated location, the results are very nice.

 

[FlinterNick]

One bit of advice with the Tried and True varnish is to spread or “stretch” it as far as possible. You really want each coat to be about as thin as humanly possible.

I found that tried and true varnish works best on a surface with a raised grain and i stop sanding at 150 grit, apply my first coat then subsequent coats after. The mistake many make with tried and true is that the wood is over sanded and the grain is too closed, it will take much much longer to dry and the results are mediocre.

It really does not work very as a refinish or stock that already has been sealed up.

 

[FlinterNick]

View attachment 257541
This is 1-1-1 finish, spar varnish is from Ace hardware, a gloss.

1-1-1 sealer and finish 0r, try 1-1-1/2 finish

If you are still having trouble with the true oil or anyone else looking for a faster finish, try this. This is probably the easiest and one of the most beautiful finishes there is.

Mix equal parts marine grade spar varnish (semi gloss), Tried & True Varnish Oil, and pure gum turpentine.

Sand bow down to at least 220 grit then wipe a heavy coat of the mix on with a cloth. Leave it until it gets almost to sticky to wipe (45min.-1.25hr depending on temp.) (Tried & True may (will) be less time ) then rub vigorously with clean cloth until all the excess is gone and you can touch the bow or gun without sticking.

Let this first coat dry 24hrs, after that you can do a coat every couple hours or less. When the first 24 is up lightly sand with 400 grit then rub with 0000 steel wool [may not need sanding], just to get the little bumps that raise up from the wet finish. All other coats are rubbed in with a cloth and ready to wipe after 20-40min. no other sanding is needed after the first coat, just rub the bow hard with a clean cloth just before putting a new coat on.

Because you wipe off the excess on each coat you don't have to worry about dust or runs, and you get the look of linseed oil with the protection of marine spar varnish. 4 coats will do but 7-10 is better, then just rub in a few coats of your choice of wax.

A couple of warnings- linseed oil will spontaneously combust on cloths as it dries, when you are done with a coat put all soiled cloths in water and put them outside, also if you wait too long before you rub off the excess you will have an almost impossible time getting it even, just rub it off as soon as it feels sticky. You get a fast build up, flexible, water proof finish with minimal work, and it looks awesome.

Original formula was using boiled linseed oil. Tried & True is a polymerized linseed oil.

*What is Polymerized Linseed Oil?

Polymerized Linseed Oil is created by heating raw linseed oil in the absence of oxygen to about 300°C (572°F) over the course of several days. During this process, a polymerization reaction occurs, which increases the oil’s viscosity and decreases the drying time.

Tru Oil is a polymerizing linseed oil varnish. If applied correctly its very a good and durable finish.

I cut my tru oil with 50/50 spirts or use the sealer.

My wood is finished at 150-180 grit and i raise the grain before i seal it. I use a rubber glove and rub in the sealer.

Dries within 3 hours and i repeat until i get the desired finish.

Work it back with steel wool and 220 and 320 paper until its white and scruffy, lubricating it with water.

Then I apply tru oil with a magic eraser in very small amounts very thin coats until i get the desired finish.

If you use Genuine oil, you’ll get a nice satin finish.

You can achieve very good results with most finishes or varnishes, such as Waterloo, Antique oil, or Polymerizing Tung Oil varnishes by Old Masters.

Using linseed oil or pure tung oil is a very time consuming process that is step critical and relies a lot of adequate drying conditions more than how it’s applied. It’s a process that demand patience and can easily go bad if too many coats are applied over undried coats.