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Effects of BP Load Compression

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My Pedersoli frontier rifle 45 Cal flint is shooting 1270 fps over the chronograph with 30 gr. of Goex FFFg that's why I was curious which rifle you're using. I know Swiss is a little hotter than Goex and if you're shooting a frontier rifle that was confirmed.
 
Intresten experment ther.I have a gauge that i used to use that fit over the ramrod so i could consistanly put the same amount of pressure on the ball and powder load.I didnt have anyway of knowing how fast the ball shot out but it seemed that the more i compressed the load the higher on the target it would shoot.I was mainly going for a consitant seat of the ball on the powder.Dont know if really helped or not but made me feel better.Anymore i just load the old fashion way and really cant tell much if any difference.Guess im geting a fairly close seat of the ball now days. :)
 
HighRocker: Have You read the articles written by Sam Fadala on the effects of compression of black powder?He found that it did make considerble differece in FPS,But that a ramrod preasure of 40lbs. seemed to work well with most brands of B.P. Just remember that B.P. and the subs are percussion sensitive,and could detonate when extreme preasure is applied.Applying the right amount of preasure becomes second nature after You shove the balls downbore enough times! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
Too much compression has another effect on your point of aim, it deforms the projectile...

Be it round ball or bullet, all can be deformed and accuracy suffers, the trick is to find a sweet shooting load and then mark your ramrod, so you load to the same spot (depth) and thus, the same compression...

What good is a compressed load if you have to mar and distroy the projectile's meplat and ogive to get it?

Weed out the variables and you will end up with a tack driver...
 
You're absolutely right, musketman. I've suggested this very same thing (marking the ramrod) to many a folks along with cautioning them about repeatedly using their ramrod as a jackhammer during the loading process and seating their load. Once started, your load should be seated with the ramrod never leaving the face of your load until you have reached the loading mark on your ramrod. One continuous stroke after the the "short start" of the load. You gain nothing by improper loading techniques except self inherent
poor accuracy, and the possibility of breaking your ramrod and running it into your hand, or maybe something worse. This is where muzzleloading clubs that have monthly organized matches with the emphasis on safety is so valuable and helpful to the new and veteran shooter alike.
 
Don't know if anyone read it, but there was a detailed article by "The Bevel Brothers" in a recent issue of Muzzleblasts on this subject.

They reported results of exhaustive tests trying to get a reaction from blackpowder using major compression techniques, including hammering it with a sledge hammer on an anvil, etc, etc, etc.

Hard as they tried with some very extreme attempts, it was impossible for them to get any igniton, combustion, explosion, etc.

Not for a minute should we fail to respect black powder of course, but the stuff is not 'mysterious'...it really is pretty stable...remember, every day of the year, simple cardboard cases containing 25 Lbs of it are routinely being thrown around in and out of trucks, airplanes, etc, being shipped all over the country...I think if it was all that volitile, shipping would be severely restricted if not prohibited all together.
 
I agree a ramrod should not be pounded on any projectile, and projectiles should be seated in one smooth stroke.
My compression technique is not scientifically calibrated, but it's consistent and produces excellent results...I just seat & compress the load to it's maximum amount that I can. ::
 
I was using a Pedersoli "Alamo", which I think is the sake as the "Frontier" - just a different lockplate and patchbox.
 
Just wondering what some of you might think of the practice of seating your bullet and then drawing the ramrod almost out of the bore and then hurling it down the bore about 8 or 10 times and watching it bounce out with the idea that it's not properly seated until the ramrod bounces about halfway back up the bore. This is with no ramrod guide.
This,I believe, gets compression but also deforms the bullet as well as wears the rifling at the muzzle. In this area this seems to have been passed down from generation to generation and many are convinced this is the only way. I've about given up trying to change them. Anybody here do it that way?
 
Guess I should have read Highrockers test before posting because whanging was what I was talking about and it gave the highest velocity the lowest deviation and the best accuracy. Still, I feel the same compression can be achieved in a better way than whanging.
 
Me too, Deadeye! Well, I guess it's back to the drawing board? However, I'll still stick with my method of the marked ramrod, and feel. I also agree with you on your first post here, but I guess we can't take the test results to task until we've done the test ourselves. Another good reason to burn some powder! :)
 
I agree with you Deadeye....I see lots of guys doing what you described and all I can see coming from the practice is a muzzle worn early and a beat up ball. I've always seated the ball, then I usually place my pouch strap between the palm of my hand and the ramrod and give it a really good press. I don't believe I can shoot as good as my rifles seem to be able to using that method. I've never put anything on a scale but it appears to be and "feels" consistent....

Vic
 
my rod and short starter looks like this.....

155227.jpg


the hole in the short starter was drilled to fit my rod so when i load i can put the same compression i need on the powder the same every time i load.....so far i have had no problems.....

155228.jpg


and the threaded stud is an extra ball puller used to pull balls or bullets.............................bob
 
For target shooting, I made a steel ramrod from a piece of 5/16 mild steel and put an old door knob on the end. I also cut a concave depression in the jag so the nose of the ball is not deformed too badly. I seat the ball against the powder, then raise and lower the rod smartly one time to compress the charge. It makes for a very consistent method so each shot is loaded in similar fashion. I am also one of those knuckleheads that wipes between every shot so I don't have too much problem beating the ball into submission.
 
I just put maximum muscle into every ball that's seated...can hear/feel the powder 'crunch'
 
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