English Rifle Finish

[longcruise]

I'm wondering what would have been the finish used by the English builders of the mid 18th century up to as late as 1770? Given the guild structure, was there a finish that was considered " appropriate"?

I'm going to do a build of that period and want to do a correct, or as near correct, as possible finish.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
The finish would most likely be a linseed oil based varnish. I've built many 18th century styled British guns and have examined scores of originals. You can achieve good authentic looking results with several modern finishes. Mixing artist grade linseed oil with spar or polyurethane varnish is one good mix. Another is Tried and True linseed oil varnish. I use Sutherland Welles polymerized tung oil, which sets up like a varnish. The finish should have a satin or slightly glossy sheen, the dull "oil in the wood" look is not appropriate for the time and place. However, shiny and glassy smooth finishes are a 19th century feature often found on late flint and percussion era British sporting guns. Here are some examples of both original guns and my own work.

The photos are original and contemporary guns representing the period 1740 through 1775.

dave

 

[rich pierce]

I’d search posts by dave_person on the subject. Here’s one: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/building-the-kings-muskets-and-a-bit-more.167825/page-3

Oops he beat me to it!

 

[longcruise]

Thanks, Dave and Rich!

I see that the Sutherland Welles is readily available.

Regarding sealing? My first experience with walnut and Tru Oil resulted in about 6 coats and still showing the little divots where the oil was sucked into the pores of the stock. I had not used a sealer.

What should I do as a sealer? My usual is to sand in clear bullseye and then sand smooth. Would this be a good approach here, or??

 

[Phil Coffins]

A very good filled finish on walnut that can be done rather quickly is a sanded in finish. The wood is sanded completely then a generous coating of tung oil or your choice of a thin oil that doesn’t set too quickly. After a few minutes wipe it ALL off and allow to dry for 24 hours. Then use 320 wet/dry paper dipped in the same type finish and sand in tiny circles in small areas till the whole stock looks like it’s covered in mud. Allow this to dry then do the same treatment again without removing any of this mud. Allow to dry completely then do it once more but wipe it off as you go. The next day look at the finish in good light for any areas that has mud remaining. Wet sand with oil again and wipe clean. The pores will be filled and one or two top coats of thinned Tru-Oil will look good and smooth. With very little build up.
IMG_0498 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
IMG_0500 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[Robin101]

One fellow I heard of would spray the stock with black Rustoleum, let dry, sand off, pores filled and sealed.
Robin

 

[rich pierce]

A very good filled finish on walnut that can be done rather quickly is a sanded in finish. The wood is sanded completely then a generous coating of tung oil or your choice of a thin oil that doesn’t set too quickly. After a few minutes wipe it ALL off and allow to dry for 24 hours. Then use 320 wet/dry paper dipped in the same type finish and sand in tiny circles in small areas till the whole stock looks like it’s covered in mud. Allow this to dry then do the same treatment again without removing any of this mud. Allow to dry completely then do it once more but wipe it off as you go. The next day look at the finish in good light for any areas that has mud remaining. Wet sand with oil again and wipe clean. The pores will be filled and one or two top coats of thinned Tru-Oil will look good and smooth. With very little build up.
IMG_0498 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
IMG_0500 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

That looks great.

 

[longcruise]

One fellow I heard of would spray the stock with black Rustoleum, let dry, sand off, pores filled and sealed.
Robin

I think Mike brooks does that but probably not to walnut.

 

[James Kibler]

Spray paint will work fine to fill open grain. Also a good product is Constantines wood filler. We may start selling it or something similar. Black looks good in walnut as would more of a brown hue.

 

[longcruise]

@Phil Coffins That looks really nice Phil. You always do nice work. That is pretty much the method I have used since my first experience with a walnut stock except I sanded in clear bullseye shellac and then put on the tru oil. Not as many coats sanded in as you did. I think your method would be a better way.

@James Kibler I know you are a fully trustworthy source, Jim but I just don't think I could bring myself to spray it down with black paint!!

The Constantines looks good.

 

[Stykbow]

Disclaimer: I am not a gun builder and do not claim to be! Now, I refinished the stock on my GPR using the spray paint trick and it worked great. Pours filled and the grain much more pronounced.

 

[Felix the Cat]

In UK there is a material known as "grain filler" sold by wood finish suppliers such as Rustin. It comes in various shades and is basically a thick suspension in a drying base such as BLO.

Do you not have an equivalent in the US?