British style match rifle with side hammer lock is starting to take shape. The lock is an L&R side hammer. Colerain .45 caliber barrel 32" long and 15/16" diameter, Dual action single set trigger.
Thank you for the input and I absolutely agree. Will be trimmed down quite a bit, just in the shaping stage right now. I usually fit a contrasting wood such as Ebony but would like to try horn one day.I have built some in the style of the Gibbs or Rigby rifles. Mostly flintlocks, but my next one is going to have the L&R Mule Ear just like the one above. They are a joy to handle and shoot.
Mulemauler, if I may - bring that panel around the lock down to about 1/8" wide - it will look better. Also, I recommend that the pistol grip handle be a little more refined and defined. I know you are not finished, so I may be out of line and I truly don't mean to be. If you will do a search for Gibbs or Rigby on this site, you will see some examples. Something as simple as a brass cap on the grip butt will really help protect it and it will look fantastic.
It is an L&R flint hooked breech. I shorten and reshape the tang. They are available in most sizes. I don't see any reason you couldn't use a musket nipple but might have to open the recessed area in the hammer a bit.Mulemauler it is only fitting that you use a Mule Ear!
Nice Rifles!
2 questions
What hooked breech do you use?
and
Will the L&R work with a Musket Cap?
That’s a dandy! Did pecatonica supply the wood? Can’t wait to see the end result!British style match rifle with side hammer lock is starting to take shape. The lock is an L&R side hammer. Colerain .45 caliber barrel 32" long and 15/16" diameter, Dual action single set trigger.
It’s where Mauser and others got their inspiration!It's like a Hawken and Mauser love child.
Love that pistol grip and non-impaling butt plate.
Something to consider down the road.
That's a great idea and will give it a try! I always pull the lock after a match to clean it and even though lock is tight against the barrel it is amazing how much residue still gets behind it.Mulemauler, have you thought about opening up the lock to fit a flash cup?
It would help keep the 'crud' from trying to get under the lock, and keep the flash area cleaner.
Just a thought.
I had a rifle with a similar attachment years ago. It didn’t have the cup so I installed a stainless steel pillar. I’ve also installed stainless and aluminum pillars for the lock bolt on TC side locks.Thought some might be interested in how barrel is attached. On rifles that customer wants a ramrod, I use a slotted lug, silver soldered to the barrel and a traditional key through the side of the stock, but on a strictly match rifle that does not need a ramrod mounted the barrel is attached by a 1/4-28 Allen head bolt through the underside of the stock into a steel lug soldered and screwed to the underside of the barrel. A steel cup is made to accept the head of the bolt and bedded into the underside of the stock to keep the bolt from pulling into the wood. Barrel channel and breech area are fully glass bedded as well as the barrel lug so nothing can go anywhere. Probably overkill on a roundball gun but on a fast twist long range rifle shooting 80-90 grains FFg and a long 530 paper patched bullet felt it is needed for the recoil. Plus a competition rifle likely gets more rounds put through it in a couple of seasons than a hunting rifle in a lifetime. This combination using the hooked breech is very solid yet simple and easy to pull the barrel for cleaning.
Lots of ways to skin a cat, I sure can't make any claim to this as I've seen rifles from the 1850's with similar setups. As long as it is solid it should work.I had a rifle with a similar attachment years ago. It didn’t have the cup so I installed a stainless steel pillar. I’ve also installed stainless and aluminum pillars for the lock bolt on TC side locks.
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