Entering the world of flintlocks

[SgtErv]

Hi All,

This Christmas I'll be the newest flintlock shooter. (I'd imagine a few others will be as well.) Got an Investarms .50 cal Hawken Rifle.

I've been shooting percussion rifles for a good while but this will be my first flinter. I've been reading a ton and figured I'd compare notes with you fellas. If I write something wrong or leave something out, do feel free to correct me. Learning as much as I can before I even start.

Going to start by just getting used to the pan going off - good training I figure. The gent that sold me the rifle gave me a good bit of 4F Goex. I know to keep the flint sharp, the frizzen and pan clean, the touch hole clear, and to fill the pan about halfway. And to wear some safe glasses. (And to keep everyone away, or at least well to my left haha)

Then I'll move on to manufacturer recommended load of 70 gr Goex FFFG, .490 ball, and 0.15 lubed patch. I'll adjust it up or down to see how what the rifle likes the best.

I do know it's an entirely different animal shooting this compared to anything else, and have my ears and eyes open. Been reading on the forum a lot. Any of your thoughts are welcome.

Merry Christmas!

 

[jethro224]

Sounds like you've done your homework, Sarge.

There is just one EXTREME DANGER that I have to give you warning about.
Flintlocks are one of the most addictive things on earth!
You are treading on a slippery slope that can only lead to the desire for even more flintlock rifles. And then, next thing you know, you'll be wanting even more. Smoothbores, pistols, muskets... Where will it end???
You might even wind up wearing funny clothes and sleeping under canvas! :shocked2:
I know! It happened to me!

:haha: You're gonna love it!

 

[Twisted_1in66]

Sounds like you've done your homework, Sarge.

There is just one EXTREME DANGER that I have to give you warning about.
Flintlocks are one of the most addictive things on earth!
You are treading on a slippery slope that can only lead to the desire for even more flintlock rifles. And then, next thing you know, you'll be wanting even more. Smoothbores, pistols, muskets... Where will it end???
You might even wind up wearing funny clothes and sleeping under canvas! :shocked2:
I know! It happened to me!

:haha: You're gonna love it!

Jethro, you make it sound like there might be something wrong with dressing in funny clothes and sleeping under canvas? Heck, that's a whole 'nother layer of fun!

Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:
Dan

 

[Don Steele]

Merry Christmas SgtErv and welcome to the asylum filled with people who depend on ROCKS to shoot their rifles.
I spent 30-some years shooting blackpowder and patched roundballs out of Caplock rifles before putting them all back in the closet and deciding to make my life more difficult by picking up a flintlock.
There's a whole set of new skills you'll be developing that I refer to as "Rock Maintenance".
Within that set are several subsets:
1. Choosing the best rocks for your lock.
2. Proper mounting of the rock in your lock, both initially and as it wears.
3. Keeping the rock clean and knowing when AND how to sharpen the edge.
4. Knowing when to say "when" and replace the rock.
I haven't even touched on PRIMING issues..
Another whole set of "Stuff" to master.
At the end of the day..when you have everything working like it should...sending a ball to the X-ring with a flintlock provides more shooting pleasure than just about any other firearm related activity I have experienced.

If you don't already have it, you might ask Santa Claus for a copy of Eric Bye's most excellent book on Flintlocks...("Flintlocks...A Practical Guide for their Use and Appreciation")


ENJOY the ride Partner....this is gonna be FUN. :thumbsup:

 

[Grenadier1758]

Congratulations on joining the ranks of those that shoot the rock locks. Flintlock use represents the art of traditional muzzleloading.

It sounds as is you will be receiving a previously owned rifle. For all of the newest inductees to rock locks or any form of muzzleloading, be sure that the bore is cleaned from any grease or oils before firing. Use a solvent dampened patch. The cleaning does a bit more than just removing some oil from the bore and touch hole. You get a feel for the bore. Are there any tight spots? Did you pull up any discoloration such as old oil or grease?
The color of the patch may be black or old dried brown grease. Look down the bore and look at the crown and the rifling. If the crown is sharp, patches can be cut on loading. A couple of twists with 400 wet or dry sandpaper should take the sharp corners off. Finally use a cleaning patch dampened with rubbing alcohol to take the last of the grease and oil out.

You should then be ready to load powder, patch and ball.

 

[jethro224]

Jethro, you make it sound like there might be something wrong with dressing in funny clothes and sleeping under canvas? Heck, that's a whole 'nother layer of fun!

Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:
Dan

Well, according to my wife, there MUST be something wrong with me... :haha:

 

[SgtErv]

I don't reckon that's a bad thing to re-enact. It serves a valuable purpose. There is a recreated 18th Century fort about 20 minutes away. (Prickett's Fort State Park in WV). They take school children there all the time to teach them about our heritage. There is no better way to learn it. Great place to visit. There's also an extremely talented blacksmith there who makes some beautiful tomahawks.

 

[jethro224]

Not a bad thing at all. I've done a couple of those kid's day things. It's fun and most of the kids seemed really interested. A few were downright fascinated.
School days are mainly just show and tell. When the parents are there you sometimes get to interact a bit more one-on-one. Kids absolutely love it when you show them how to light a fire with flint and steel or give them a roundball to keep. I won't do that kind of stuff without the parents permission.

I don't do a lot of re-enacting tho. More just rendezvousing. That's where I get to have the most fun. :wink:

 

[SgtErv]

And thus you have discovered where my fascination truly began. Some gentlemen at the Mary Ingle's Trail near Charleston, WV in 3rd grade had me in awe haha. Then Colonial Williamsburg in 5th with a Civil War re-enactment in between, I was fairly my girlfriend thinks it's be good for me to do. I have to agree with her. But man oh man if it thought muzzeloading was expensive, good grief!

 

[SgtErv]

Good info everyone. Yes, it's previously owned, although one can hardly tell. Before purchasing I dropped a bore light down there and it looked great. I'll he disassembling and cleaning before doing anything else, taking a picture of the current flint placement for reference, as the gentleman has had it in the ideal spot apparently.

I have a brass range rod for that barrel length as well as a muzzle protector. (The synthetic one I use for another rifle is frustratingly bendy, which makes it difficult to load after several shots even after swabbing). I've found a tight spot in that rifle, too, and it shredded a few patches.

I've learned more in the past couple of weeks on this forum than I've ever known. Much appreciated gents

 

[SgtErv]

Any special tricks for removing the lock on this rifle? (Investarms .50 cal Hawken). I took out the single screw but didn't want to damage anything by pulling on the lock. It's in there good. I'm guessing age. Wanted to give it a thorough cleaning before shooting.

 

[SgtErv]

Good advice, Grenadier. There was some slight discoloration from some old grease or oil that's gone now. There were no rough spots, variation in size along the length of the barrel, or sharp edges on the crown. Further inspection with a bore light revealed a very well maintained bore.

There is a little bit of brown on the main spring of the lock. (Above post in seeing if you gents know any magic tricks on said lock's removal for a deep cleaning.) However, it's sparks nicely with an English flint. Very much looking forward to a dry day for some shooting!

 

[krshade]

Put the lock screw back in, a turn or two, and use it push the lock out. You also might need to half **** the lock. Enjoy your new rifle.

 

[Zonie]

Like kr54 said, screw in the lockbolt and lightly tap the head with a screwdriver handle or something similar.

This usually will loosen the lock from its mortise and allow it to be tapped out.
After the lock is loosened, removing the lockscrew and using the **** or hammer to give something to grip on, lightly rock the lock back and forth while applying a light outward pressure to remove the lock the rest of the way.

Don't go hog wild with this rocking. You don't want to enlarge the pocket that the lock fits into.

Putting the **** or hammer at half **** probably isn't necessary on your gun but on many custom made guns it is required.

Some of the locks have a mainspring that hangs down slightly below the bottom of the lock and a builder will cut a small pocket for it.

Because a good builder wants the mortise for the lock to exactly fit the outside of the lockplate, a small area of the mortise will be smaller than the clearance pocket for the mainspring.
By putting the lock at halfcock, the end of the mainspring is raised up above the smaller mortise cut.

 

[SgtErv]

Thank you, gentlemen.

 

[MSW]

welcome to the wonderful world of flinters. to paraphrase the little green Star Wars fellow: "Once rocks banged have you, forever will the dominate your range time."

no twelve step program here, folks!

you may want to check out Dutch Schoultz' method - here's a link:
http://www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com/

if you follow these instructions, you'll save a boatload of powder and shot, and your groups will shrink.

good luck, and

Make Good Smoke!

 

[SgtErv]

It came right out when I tapped lightly on the lock screw, so I got the innards cleaned up and oiled.

Everything is ship shape and ready to go, but I can't do too much in the rain. It's not supposed to clear up until about Thursday.

Thanks for the help everyone. I'm looking forward to giving you all a range report

 

[AZbpBurner]

Pan about half filled may be way too much, depending on the pan configuration. I have an Ampco Pan primer that dispenses 3 gr. 4F, and that amount is perfect. Too much priming powder not only fouls the pan quicker, but takes more time to burn.

 

[Many Klatch]

If the gun is new and unused, it is possible that it may be subject to wood in the lock mortise expanding due to humidity changes. If you have any problems with the lock, you may want to pull the lock, hold it over a smoking oil lamp and then reinstall the lock. When you pull it out again you will be able to see black marks where metal is touching wood. A few minutes with knife and chisel should fix that kind of problem.

 

[SgtErv]

I don't think the lock had ever been removed. It was a very tight fit, tight to the point that reinstalling it and performing a function check revealed that a sliver of wood was hindering the spring (I believe). I took it down a little and it seems to perform fine now. Good advice, as this is exactly what I had to do. I'll do the oil lamp method, because I'd hate to have to do the same procedure I did on shooting day.

As for priming, I'm going to see how she likes one application of a spring loaded primer.

Thanks everyone