http://www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com/
I will start by mentioning a friend's system for learning a lot about MuzzleLoading:
I will also try to supply my own information for you with a lot of links to Track of the Wolf because their pictures are so good at showing what is being discussed.
1. Which equipment is used especially for loading?
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http://www.trackofthewolf.com/(S(vh10whahyzaq2tjj4r540z45))/categories/catList.aspx?catID=1[/url]
Powder flask of some sort.
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http://www.trackofthewolf.com...ies/partList.aspx?catID=1&subID=13&styleID=49[/url]
Powder measures can be either fixed or adjustable. I would use adjustable until I had a very good load selected and then I would make a fixed measure of bone, horn, antler or other material.
Your choice in powder measure is limited only by your imagination; materials available and your skill at making things.
Patches are cloth (generally thick and tight weave) needed to act as a gasket for a lead round ball. I use a sharp knife to cut mine after the ball is started into the muzzle. Others buy or make pre-cut patches. You will need thinner cleaning patches to be pushed down the bore with a cleaning and loading jag. Thick T shirts are good cleaning patch material.
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http://www.trackofthewolf.com...s/partList.aspx?catID=6&subID=48&styleID=1047[/url]
I use a device known as a short starter and a small hammer to get the ball loaded into the bore. A short starter is generally a wooden ball with a bit of brass rod inserted into it to push the ball the first few inches into the bore. It may have a much shorter rod to just get the ball a half inch into the bore. The brass rods will be cupped on the end so as to minimize damage to the ball.
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http://www.trackofthewolf.com...s/tableList.aspx?catID=6&subID=48&styleID=136[/url]
I use a range rod which is a metal rod for loading rather than the wooden ramrod which is in the rifle. This has a cone shaped item which slides down to keep the rod from scraping the rifling at the muzzle.
You do not mention whether you intend to shoot flint or caplock. They each have special tools.
Caplocks need a nipple wrench and flintlocks needs flints, a bit of leather to hold the flint securely and a screwdriver. Other items may be needed, but this is the simple list.
2. How is loaded(flask, horn, glas tubes)?
Your main supply of powder for the day can be kept in some form of flask -- horn, copper, brass or even the can that you purchased it in. You need to load from a separate powder measure and close or cover that main powder supply so that no spark from your gun can set off the powder in your main supply and act as a hand grenade in your hand.
3. how is unloaded?
I have used 3 methods:
a. Shoot it out at a safe location. This allows me to learn how the gun shoots when clean and cold.
b. Ball puller also known as a ball screw can be attached to a good ram rod and the ball can be pulled out. This is somewhat dangerous since part of you will be in front of the muzzle at this time. A range rod with a "T" type handle can be hooked over something else so the gun can be pulled to remove the ball. A large ball handle on a range rod can be placed into the fork of a tree or similar structure to do the same.
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http://www.auctionarms.com/search/displayitem.cfm?itemnum=6430750[/url]
c.I also have a couple of the C O2 (carbon dioxide) devices known as silent ball dischargers.
There are other similar products avaiable which also use C O2 or other compressed gasses and can work with flint or caplocks.
4. Are there safety regulations by law?
There are many regulations in various states. Generally muzzleloaders are considered loaded when there is powder and a projectile in the bore AND the cap or prime is in place. However, you should be aware that StumpKiller's item number three is very good advice because flintlocks can prime themselves through leakage of the main charge into the pan. Also sparks from a well made flintlock can get into the vent without a prime charge. A oothpick or feature is suggested to keep sparks and moisture from your main charge for very different reasons. It is illegal in most areas to transport a loaded and primed or capped muzzleloader in a auto. It is just not safe.
Note. Remember that the first step in doing anything with a muzzleloader is to learn what the current condition is. Use your rod to see if it is loaded and how. You should mark your rod for unloaded and loaded situations so that you can check these by simply putting the rod into the bore of the barrel. This s an important safety check.
I hope that some of this helps. Ask any further questions before buying a lot of things since the shooters here have a lot of experience and may be able to assist.
CS