Escutcheons, yes or no?

[longcruise]

For a pre rev rifle. I m thinking of using small keys instead of pins. Any thoughts on this?

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

For a pre rev rifle. I m thinking of using small keys instead of pins. Any thoughts on this?

I like keys better than pins! Are they period correct? Have no clue! Who cares, it is your rifle.
Larry

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Barrel keys with no escutcheon plates are seen on some Rev War period guns. Notably, J. P. Beck used them but he also used hooked tang and breeches with them. Barrel keys were common on better quality English guns from the 1730s-1740s. However, again, they were used in conjunction with a hooked breech.

dave

 

[Black Powder Guy]

That is good to know for us history buffs dave.

 

[Col. Batguano]

Barrel keys are a lot more work than pins, but you will thank yourself later for them.

 

[HighUintas]

I have done mine up with keys and it is a standard breech and long tang. But, it is an 1820ish gun and my own creation. Anyway, if you want to do keys, they're certainly nice to have even if you don't do a hooked breech

 

[longcruise]

Hi,
Barrel keys with no escutcheon plates are seen on some Rev War period guns.

Thanks, Dave. I posed my question poorly. I was referring to the escutcheons but it was easily interpreted to being about the keys. You have answered my question.

 

[dave_person]

Hi Longcruise,
The surrounding plates seem to be a later fashion although I have seen a few mid-18th century English guns with decorative plates around the rear barrel key but usually not the others. On long rifles, they seem to become popular after the Rev War period and into the 19th century.

dave

 

[longcruise]

Thank

 

[Col. Batguano]

From the "cool factor" perspective, they don't add a lot to the visual looks of the gun, but they certainly add to the usability. Sort of like having a big engine under the hood of a parked car.

I've only done keys with estrucheons in the past rather than keys over bare wood (pins both with and without plates too). As I alluded to earlier, keys make disassembly / assembly a ton easier, which is certainly welcome. But along with that, it's also easier (than with pins) to have the keys come out and get lost when you're not looking. For that reason, cutting in a groove to them and installing a capturing pin for the slot is a really really good idea. It's certainly harder to cut a long rectangular slot that holds the key tight than it is to drill a hole for a pin.

It's also a good idea to keep a spare key (or pin) inside your patch box for those "ya never know" times. A magnet for looking for them when they fall out can be useful too, unless you are going to do all your gun handling shooting over a clean white linoleum floor.

Some of the pre-made keys from places like MBS have slots in them already, but the slots may be too long for your build and a portion of them may have to be welded up, and then re-opened.

 

[hanshi]

It's also a good idea to keep a spare key (or pin) inside your patch box for those "ya never know" times. A magnet

The pins I have are stainless I think, at least they don't respond to a magnet. So a magnet at the range wouldn't help very much. But I do carry spares (of almost everything actually) when going to the range.

 

[Col. Batguano]

You know how it works. If it's possible to lose it, it will probably happen. If it's not possible, then it's probably lost already, or, you just forgot where you put it.

 

[tallPercshooter]

I have a nice custom rifle where the pins are slightly too small, in fact one fell out in my living room. Any way to "fatten" them up a few thousandths?
Thinking about whacking middle of pin with a steel ball peen hammer on a steel surface, maybe that would spread the middle slightly and make it tight?

 

[BoomStick]

I have a nice custom rifle where the pins are slightly too small, in fact one fell out in my living room. Any way to "fatten" them up a few thousandths?
Thinking about whacking middle of pin with a steel ball peen hammer on a steel surface, maybe that would spread the middle slightly and make it tight?

May be easier to fashion a larger pin using a finish nail. File off the point and trim to the right length. If a little too large diameter, run it in your drill with a fine grit sandpaper -which will also polish the surface. You can also fill the hole/area around the pin with wax, that will help retain the pin and may help cosmetics if the pin has wiggled loose and opened the hole up some.

 

[Greg_E]

I would look for larger pins and drill bigger if needed.

You could try a small dent where it goes through a Tenon, or if possible a light knocking will increase diameter.

 

[tallPercshooter]

I made one with a finish nail and a lot of filing. I'll try the drill polishing method for the other two. Thanks

 

[Col. Batguano]

If you know the size of the hole, you can pick the size pin you need. If you don't, then try using numbered wire gauge drill bits going up one size at a time to find the right size (use the shank end to test it). When it fits snug, voilla, that's your size. Since they're only a buck or two, just cut off the bit / cutting part and use the shank as your pin. (You may need to drill out your barrel lug hole though.) I've done that on other parts. like trigger assemblies when the hole was bigger than the pin.

You should anneal the pin though. Drill bits are hardened steel, meaning, they can be somewhat brittle. Heat it to cherry red or orange and let it cool slowly.

Plan B would be to fill in the hole and re-drill. Wood is better than a synthetic, like a gorilla glue or epoxy.

 

[TDM]

Up until a week ago I would have said pins only on a American long rifle. Then last Sunday at the Camp Moore museum there was an original Kentucky SMR flintlock that had 3 silver escutcheons with small silver keys/wedges. The rifle was over the top with silver inlay, really beautiful. Of course, didn't get any photos of the complete rifle but I plan to return and do so. The rifle was dated 1800 and said to have been locally owned.