Can you experienced MLrs help me with a basic list of items that are necessary to be able to shoot/maintain a BP firearm? I have to drive 3 hrs. one way to get components and don't know enough yet of what I need to order thru catalog or online. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. :hatsoff:
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Essential ML items
- Thread starter John Camp
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
cleaning jag
worm
extra flints
powder measure / container for flashpan powder and load
patches / bore butter (or equivilent)
ball starter
appropriate sized balls
pick
I am sure I am forgetting something and someone will chime in
worm
extra flints
powder measure / container for flashpan powder and load
patches / bore butter (or equivilent)
ball starter
appropriate sized balls
pick
I am sure I am forgetting something and someone will chime in
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Assuming that you have such things (needed by any gun owner, not just BP) as cleaning patches, oil, & correctly sized screwdrivers etc, you should add a ball puller & range rod to the list.
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The most essential terms I have found are those that help me buy another. It's variable, but in general I can't use the same terms twice, and each new muzzleloader requires more inventive terms than the last. :rotf:
Patches and balls, conicals maybe, powder, powder flask or something to pour powder into your powder measure, powder measure, caps, lube, range rod, felt over powder wads, solvent, cleaning patches, ear and eye protection, starter, take screw drivers to adjust sights, nipple extras, nipple wrench, ball remover, capper, and I know I forgot something.
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I'd recommend an adjustable powder measure. Once you determine your favorite loads you'll make lots of neat little measures out of river cane, bamboo, antler, bone etc. Spout for Goex can. I use Linen Tow for cleaning. A good gun oil for storage protection if you're not going to be shooting for a while (removed completely prior to shooting).
longcruise
70 Cal.
I once put together a list for a friend who was just starting out and found it still saved on my hard drive. Here it is:
What does a new ML shooter need? (geared to a .50 caliber rifle)
There are probably a few things that you need that are specific to your firearm, caliber, shooting activity or your style, but I think you will find the following general list helpful.
1. Propellant, Real BP or a substitute. ( the more real the better!)
2. You do NEED a range rod! It's invaluable for a day at the range and for cleaning. Get a steel rod (treso is good) and also a brass bore guide that fits it to prevent muzzle wear. Fiberglass is popular, but it also works your muzzle like fine sandpaper.
3. A good patch jag. The jag should have a tapered section behind the patch holding portion that allows a place for the patch to bunch up behind the jag when you pull it out of the bore.
4. Some kinda cleaning patches. Actually, cutting up an old cotton flannel shirt works pretty good. Lately I use cotton flannel from wal mart sold for making baby diapers.
5. You need a pour spout to put on your propellant container that you can cover while shooting or better yet that has an automatic open/close feature as you use it. That way a spark won't fly into the can and set the whole thing off!
6. A volumetric powder measure unless you plan to use pellets (as a new shooter, you might find that loose measured powder will make it easier to establish a good load for your gun. Besides, it's a lot cheaper to use loose powder.)
7. A lost patch retriever. This screws onto your rod like the jag only it has a couple twisted wire dealies on the end. If you lose a patch down the bore, you can attach it to your rod and drop it down to the patch. Give it a few turns and pull the patch out. Sure, you can tear the gun apart or quit for the day and get it out at cleaning time, but the retriever will solve the problem in minutes and not ruin your day at the range! You should also get a caliber specific ball pulling fitting.
8. Course, you gotta have primers!
9. Projectiles. There's a ton of these for sale along with related sabots and of course power belts with the plastic thingie attached. They all seem to work pretty good, but, if you don't want to use round balls, nothing takes an animal down like a 350 to 450 grain pure lead conical that you cast yourself for pennies apiece.
10. Some lube if you decide to use the lead conicals. TC 1000+ (also sold as bore butter) is an excellent lube and also works well as a round ball patch lube.
11. A short starter to get the projectile started down the bore the first few inches.
12. Some .490 or .495 round balls. Cheap to shoot and with light loads dandy for small game and fine for deer etc with heavier loads. Even cheaper if you cast your own using a $20 Lee round ball mold!
13. Some patching material if you decide to use the round balls. You can buy it at the sports stores or get yourself some 8 or 10 oz duck, denim or pillow ticking. Use the same lube you would use for the conicals.
14. A very sharp knife to cut the patch material once the ball is started down the bore about a 1/4 inch with the short starter. Or, you can use precut patches either round or square.
15. How about some targets?
16. Some speed loaders if you plan to hunt. Butler Creek loaders are nice and they're cheap too!
17. Bore solvent. Go to a NAPA parts store and buy a bottle of cutting oil, part #765-1526. Remember the part number cause if you just ask for cutting oil they will probably look at you like you have two heads. Mix the cutting oil and water at 1 part oil to 10 parts water for an excellent bore solvent. Mixed at 1 to 5, you can use it for a patch lube for round balls too, either when still wet or as a dry lube after the patching drys out. Don't use it for a patch lube while hunting since the water content will promote a rust ring in the bore. A grease lube is better for hunting.
18. Some alcohol to dry the bore after cleaning (not really necessary but conveniant).
19. Safety rated glasses to be worn while you shoot.
20. A sight adjustment tool (hey it's easy to forget, I've done it many times!!).
21. Two pieces of old carpet. One to put under the butt of the gun on the ground while loading. The other to put on the bench or whatever you lean the gun on while reloading.
22. A rag to wipe your hands off occasionally.
23. A plastic fishing tackle box to put all this stuff in!
24. Patience. It takes a while to get into the rhythm and flow of shooting bp guns. It seems like the big grails sought by most bp shooters is the powder that cleans easily and is the least like real BP and the magic lube/projectile/powder/secret potion that allows the shooter to shoot XXXXX times without wiping the bore. Avoid that trap!
25. Dedication. Shoot a lot. If shooting bp a lot is not fun, then get rid of the ml gun and go back to cartridge! You will not arrive at the best load combo for your gun by going to the range and shooting 4 or 5 three shot groups. You will probably burn two or three pounds of powder before you really get to know what your gun likes. One good accidental 3 shot group means nothing. Try shooting 10 shot groups for a true picture.
I probably missed a few things. Once you make a few trips to the range, you will be adding to and subtracting from this list!
Good luck and good shooting!!
What does a new ML shooter need? (geared to a .50 caliber rifle)
There are probably a few things that you need that are specific to your firearm, caliber, shooting activity or your style, but I think you will find the following general list helpful.
1. Propellant, Real BP or a substitute. ( the more real the better!)
2. You do NEED a range rod! It's invaluable for a day at the range and for cleaning. Get a steel rod (treso is good) and also a brass bore guide that fits it to prevent muzzle wear. Fiberglass is popular, but it also works your muzzle like fine sandpaper.
3. A good patch jag. The jag should have a tapered section behind the patch holding portion that allows a place for the patch to bunch up behind the jag when you pull it out of the bore.
4. Some kinda cleaning patches. Actually, cutting up an old cotton flannel shirt works pretty good. Lately I use cotton flannel from wal mart sold for making baby diapers.
5. You need a pour spout to put on your propellant container that you can cover while shooting or better yet that has an automatic open/close feature as you use it. That way a spark won't fly into the can and set the whole thing off!
6. A volumetric powder measure unless you plan to use pellets (as a new shooter, you might find that loose measured powder will make it easier to establish a good load for your gun. Besides, it's a lot cheaper to use loose powder.)
7. A lost patch retriever. This screws onto your rod like the jag only it has a couple twisted wire dealies on the end. If you lose a patch down the bore, you can attach it to your rod and drop it down to the patch. Give it a few turns and pull the patch out. Sure, you can tear the gun apart or quit for the day and get it out at cleaning time, but the retriever will solve the problem in minutes and not ruin your day at the range! You should also get a caliber specific ball pulling fitting.
8. Course, you gotta have primers!
9. Projectiles. There's a ton of these for sale along with related sabots and of course power belts with the plastic thingie attached. They all seem to work pretty good, but, if you don't want to use round balls, nothing takes an animal down like a 350 to 450 grain pure lead conical that you cast yourself for pennies apiece.
10. Some lube if you decide to use the lead conicals. TC 1000+ (also sold as bore butter) is an excellent lube and also works well as a round ball patch lube.
11. A short starter to get the projectile started down the bore the first few inches.
12. Some .490 or .495 round balls. Cheap to shoot and with light loads dandy for small game and fine for deer etc with heavier loads. Even cheaper if you cast your own using a $20 Lee round ball mold!
13. Some patching material if you decide to use the round balls. You can buy it at the sports stores or get yourself some 8 or 10 oz duck, denim or pillow ticking. Use the same lube you would use for the conicals.
14. A very sharp knife to cut the patch material once the ball is started down the bore about a 1/4 inch with the short starter. Or, you can use precut patches either round or square.
15. How about some targets?
16. Some speed loaders if you plan to hunt. Butler Creek loaders are nice and they're cheap too!
17. Bore solvent. Go to a NAPA parts store and buy a bottle of cutting oil, part #765-1526. Remember the part number cause if you just ask for cutting oil they will probably look at you like you have two heads. Mix the cutting oil and water at 1 part oil to 10 parts water for an excellent bore solvent. Mixed at 1 to 5, you can use it for a patch lube for round balls too, either when still wet or as a dry lube after the patching drys out. Don't use it for a patch lube while hunting since the water content will promote a rust ring in the bore. A grease lube is better for hunting.
18. Some alcohol to dry the bore after cleaning (not really necessary but conveniant).
19. Safety rated glasses to be worn while you shoot.
20. A sight adjustment tool (hey it's easy to forget, I've done it many times!!).
21. Two pieces of old carpet. One to put under the butt of the gun on the ground while loading. The other to put on the bench or whatever you lean the gun on while reloading.
22. A rag to wipe your hands off occasionally.
23. A plastic fishing tackle box to put all this stuff in!
24. Patience. It takes a while to get into the rhythm and flow of shooting bp guns. It seems like the big grails sought by most bp shooters is the powder that cleans easily and is the least like real BP and the magic lube/projectile/powder/secret potion that allows the shooter to shoot XXXXX times without wiping the bore. Avoid that trap!
25. Dedication. Shoot a lot. If shooting bp a lot is not fun, then get rid of the ml gun and go back to cartridge! You will not arrive at the best load combo for your gun by going to the range and shooting 4 or 5 three shot groups. You will probably burn two or three pounds of powder before you really get to know what your gun likes. One good accidental 3 shot group means nothing. Try shooting 10 shot groups for a true picture.
I probably missed a few things. Once you make a few trips to the range, you will be adding to and subtracting from this list!
Good luck and good shooting!!
Thanks for the good info. Do you or anyone else know of a good BP loading/cleaning ramrod kit (includes jag, ball and patch pullers, etc) that is long enough for a .50 cal/39" barrel? I am reluctant to purchase individually because of the different threads from different manufacturers. Thank you.
T.O.T.W. [www.trackofthewolf.com] sells full length 48" hickory rammers with either 10-32 or 8-32 threaded tips (or plain). You can pick the cleaning attachments as needed.
For the most part I use the rod that rides in the gun's thimbles. You did ask for "essential" items. A seperate cleaning rod is a non-essential.
For the most part I use the rod that rides in the gun's thimbles. You did ask for "essential" items. A seperate cleaning rod is a non-essential.
The best way to do that is to use all one size attachment or split them at 40 cal. I use 10/32 on everything over 40 cal & under 40 cal I use 8-32.
Also, on all of your attachments I suggest you use ones with Steel thread shafts, not shafts of threaded brass or bronze. I have seen allot of the brass ones broken & then you have a delima, as if it breaks it will break down IN the bore & ya just made yerself a problem to deal with.
On the ones with the steel shafts, soon as I get them I remove the shafts, clean the shaft & hole with electrical or brake drum cleaner to remove any oils, then put red Locktite in the hole & on the shaft & screw them back in Tight, wipe off the excess Locktite, let it sit for a couple of hrs & you are good to go..
:thumbsup:
I will add to the list of necessities:
1) Barrel Flushing kit.
1) cleaning cradle to hold the rifle upside down while cleaning it. This keeps any water or cleaner from getting under the barrel while cleaning it.
Also, on all of your attachments I suggest you use ones with Steel thread shafts, not shafts of threaded brass or bronze. I have seen allot of the brass ones broken & then you have a delima, as if it breaks it will break down IN the bore & ya just made yerself a problem to deal with.
On the ones with the steel shafts, soon as I get them I remove the shafts, clean the shaft & hole with electrical or brake drum cleaner to remove any oils, then put red Locktite in the hole & on the shaft & screw them back in Tight, wipe off the excess Locktite, let it sit for a couple of hrs & you are good to go..
:thumbsup:
I will add to the list of necessities:
1) Barrel Flushing kit.
1) cleaning cradle to hold the rifle upside down while cleaning it. This keeps any water or cleaner from getting under the barrel while cleaning it.
