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FAB. ARMI F.LLI PIETTA GUSSAGO BS ITALY

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Just because it was asked previously, the bores of both barrels are .7265" or 18.45 mm.

I think Paul V. mentioned waxing the stock. What sort of wax does one use? I admit I am totally new at this and have no clues.

Finally, the butt of the gun has a farb type plastic. Any suggestions for replacement? I thought about just wrapping it in a thin piece of leather.
 
I use Pledge, furniture wax on the gunstocks. Wax doesn't stay on in layers, or stay on for very long regardless. you can buy a good paste wax like you might use on a car, but I don't see the point.

Buttplate is an individual preference. A leather piece has been done. Sometimes a true boot is done. If you look at the fancy doubles, they often have a leather pad that is about 1/2 thick, and is fitted over the butt of the stock. I don't know what is in the middle of the pad. Check Brownell's Catalogue for something like that. Or contact Briley's which seems to specialize in making fancy shotguns with expensive leather recoil pads. They do look nice, and they do work. But leather has to be maintained, almost as much as the rubber, and synthetic pads do. Keep them away from heat, and follow instructions on treating the leather regularly with a preservative.

I used a modern recoil pad not because I could not handle the recoil, but because the factory stock is so short, I needed to add length to it to be able to use it. The pad I found just Just long enough to make do. You can look at the TOTW catalogue on line, and they have steel, or brass, or German silver buttplates that might also be considered. Pecatonica is another source, as I suspect other suppliers, like Cains, Dixon's, and even Dixie GWs.

Is that measurement of the bore made at the muzzle, or further down the barrels? If it represents the true bore diameter, its a little on the tight side for a 12 gauge, but that is okay. The 12 gauge wads will all work properly for you. Is there any indication that either barrel is choked at the muzzle? Often markings on the barrels, either top, side, or bottom, near the breech. Or sometimes you can tell putting a good light down the barrel shining back to the muzzles, by the rings of light you see about an inch back of the muzzle.
 
paulvallandigham said:
... Is that measurement of the bore made at the muzzle, or further down the barrels? If it represents the true bore diameter, its a little on the tight side for a 12 gauge, but that is okay. The 12 gauge wads will all work properly for you. Is there any indication that either barrel is choked at the muzzle? Often markings on the barrels, either top, side, or bottom, near the breech. Or sometimes you can tell putting a good light down the barrel shining back to the muzzles, by the rings of light you see about an inch back of the muzzle.

Thank you again for all your advice and knowledge. :bow:

The measurement of the bore was made at the muzzle.

I can see no indications of a choke marking on the barrel. Doesn't mean they aren't there, just means I cannot see any.

I am getting dizzy shining a light down the muzzle. Sometimes it looks like it's straight down to me, other times it looks a like it could be more constricted to about two inches down the barrel from the muzzle. I know you were talking only an inch, but it's difficult to judge the distance. It's very possibly choked. I was just expecting there to be a more dramatic difference in thickness if it were, like a 1/4 - 1/8 inch instead of perhaps mm.
 
If it is .7265 at the muzzle i would think it would be cylinder bore with no choke. Thats how mine was and i shot more game with that gun than any other shotgun i have owned, both BP and centerfires.
 
I agree with Rebel. I think the gun is cylinder bore, and just load it as such. Most of the early Navy Arms guns were made and sold without chokes. Its only been during the last 20 years that choked barrels have been offered by the better Italian gun makers. Enjoy.
 
I purchased mine new in 1988 for $285.00. I still have the box. It is a fine SXS and fun to shoot. It is not choked (Cylinder x Cylinder). I have shot it with the plastic shot cup wads greased with Crisco or Vasaline and also using the fiber cusion wads. The plastic shot cup wads gave me a better patteren but you had to scrub the plastic streaks from the bore once in a while. Mine is still in like new condition :hatsoff: .
 
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