Failed attempts at a rubbed back / French grey finish

[DillyJamba]

I've been trying to finish this fowler barrel and after multiple attempts I'm just not happy with the results. It seems when I rub black the bluing, I keep overshooting the look I want chasing down areas of inconsistency. included pictures of the barrel blued and after my final attempt at rubbing back. Anyone done a finish like this? I used 44/40 in my attempts. Pretty frustrated as I had it to a nice bright mirror finish after filing/sanding before my attempts and wondering if I should have just left it.

Maybe I've looked at it too long at this point, any tips or opinions on my current outcome?

I don't think it looks terrible, but it has a somewhat splotchy appearance in some areas.

I'm opposed to bluing or browning as I want it to appear period correct but bright white, I'm afraid would cause an unpleasant glare.

 

[RiverRat]

I don’t think it looks bad at all. I would assemble it am shoot the heck out of it and try rubbing some dirty cleaning patches on it to speed up the “used look”.

 

[Adam in WI]

It's this sorta what you're looking for?

 

[SDSmlf]

I used 44/40 in my attempts.

Well, you asked for opinions, so…. 44/40 is just a top coat, not actually converting the top coat of steel like a traditional rust/bluing, and a I find it not very durable or long lasting if handled much.

Personally prefer a light rust bluing that has been carded back to the so-called ‘French Grey’ finish, much more permanent once you get the look you want. Now if you are looking for a finish on a display piece that won’t be handled much, any of the cold bluing formulas like 44/40 will give the look you want if you fiddle with it enough.

Again, just my opinion.

 

[Phil Coffins]

I’ve often wondered what French gray finish is so did a little search.

French Gray - An acid etched or phosphate finish, applied typically to shotgun actions, forming a gray-colored, non-relective matte finish which also provides some protection from rust. Also called, gray-etched. Not brightly polished like Coin Finished

So it’s not just a worn bluing but a coating. It can be done by a hobbyist with care.

 

[Tumbledown]

I’ve often wondered what French gray finish is so did a little search.

French Gray - An acid etched or phosphate finish, applied typically to shotgun actions, forming a gray-colored, non-relective matte finish which also provides some protection from rust. Also called, gray-etched. Not brightly polished like Coin Finished

So it’s not just a worn bluing but a coating. It can be done by a hobbyist with care.

Not a coating, but a treatment. Naval jelly is phosphoric acid.

 

[Tumbledown]

I've been trying to finish this fowler barrel and after multiple attempts I'm just not happy with the results. It seems when I rub black the bluing, I keep overshooting the look I want chasing down areas of inconsistency. included pictures of the barrel blued and after my final attempt at rubbing back. Anyone done a finish like this? I used 44/40 in my attempts. Pretty frustrated as I had it to a nice bright mirror finish after filing/sanding before my attempts and wondering if I should have just left it.

Maybe I've looked at it too long at this point, any tips or opinions on my current outcome?

I don't think it looks terrible, but it has a somewhat splotchy appearance in some areas.

I'm opposed to bluing or browning as I want it to appear period correct but bright white, I'm afraid would cause an unpleasant glare.

Sand the metal bright using 220 grit paper, then apply naval jelly, let sit 15 minutes, rinse off and dry. Repeat the naval jelly if you want it grayer.

 

[rich pierce]

Probably you’re going for the look of a gun that was finished bright but has some patina on it now and is not so shiny. I’m guessing you’re using the term French gray for the look you’re wanting. I agree any natural patina will be a little blotchy. I like that the barrel band crevices are darker. There are a million ways to do this but the more mirror the surface preparation, the harder it will be to get the look you want. I’d take it back to 320 grit which is at least as fine as originals. Or rub it with pumice powder on a wet rag. Then decide if you want to re-blue and then rub most of that off. Again, I’d use pumice powder on a wet rag. Lee Valley sells a big container. Mine has lasted decades.
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/supplies/finishing/115291-pumice-stone

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

I've use a greying solution or as I call it "Patania" on my last few builds. I like the look of it. Like any other finish, a coating of light, rubbed in oil after cleaning keeps the barrel from rusting.

 

[Tumbledown]

If you want blotchy, use the naval jelly then apply a solution of salt and vinegar. I brushed it on, thoroughly wetting the metal and letting undissolved salt crystals cling to the barrel. I let it sit a couple of days, then wiped with a dry cloth to take the crusty stuff off. This was the result (on the barrel, I kept the lock bright.)

 

[French Colonial]

Personally I used Birchwood Casey cold blue, which I know is not very durable.

I then assembled the rifle and rubbed it down with some old material from some Levi jeans, the blueing stays where the Levi material cannot reach, where the barrel meets the wood around the sights etc. and gives it a nice "been around awhile but taken care of" look that I like.

YMMV