favorite cleaner
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Click Here For Butch's Blackpowder Bore Shine
Pretty simple! Start with an empty spray botlle filled with 1/2 Windex -- 1/2 Isoprphyll Alcohol. I use the round 3" Ox-Yoke patches with a bore brush... no cleaning jag! When the windex/alky patches come out clean, I use the Butchs Shine. For my copper sabots, I use Barnes CR-10 Copper Solvent.
Click Here For Barnes CR-10 Copper Solvent
Pretty simple! Start with an empty spray botlle filled with 1/2 Windex -- 1/2 Isoprphyll Alcohol. I use the round 3" Ox-Yoke patches with a bore brush... no cleaning jag! When the windex/alky patches come out clean, I use the Butchs Shine. For my copper sabots, I use Barnes CR-10 Copper Solvent.
Click Here For Barnes CR-10 Copper Solvent
On the Traditional rifles, they always get a soap and water bath in real hot water. I then run a Birchwood Casey Bore scrubber patch or two through them. Then a brass bore brush. Then back into the water bath. I then take the barrel and dump clean scalding hot water through it to heat the barrel and wash all traces of stuff out. After that a few more solvent patches of Bore Scrubber. These will 99% of the time be clean and remove any moisture. My final patch has Birchwood Casey Sheath.
On the inlines, I put a plastic funnel in the breech and pour very hot soapy water through the barrel to wash all the crud out and away from the trigger area. Then I shake it out and take patches with Birchwood Casey Bore scrubber and run through the barrel and back striker area from the breech end to the muzzle until they come clean. Then I brass brush that. After, a few more Bore Scrubber patches which will usually come out clean. Then to protect the barrel, a patch with Birchwood Casey Sheath. After I scrub the striker and plugs, nipples, etc. I wipe all of that down and reassemble the rifles.
While I shoot I swab with denatured alcohol which keeps a lot of the crud and stuff out of the barrel.
On the inlines, I put a plastic funnel in the breech and pour very hot soapy water through the barrel to wash all the crud out and away from the trigger area. Then I shake it out and take patches with Birchwood Casey Bore scrubber and run through the barrel and back striker area from the breech end to the muzzle until they come clean. Then I brass brush that. After, a few more Bore Scrubber patches which will usually come out clean. Then to protect the barrel, a patch with Birchwood Casey Sheath. After I scrub the striker and plugs, nipples, etc. I wipe all of that down and reassemble the rifles.
While I shoot I swab with denatured alcohol which keeps a lot of the crud and stuff out of the barrel.
Triple Se7en... I just bought some Butch's Black powder bore shine. I have not had a chance to try it, but I heard some good things about it. Hope it works as good as the Bore Scrubber. After every so many shootings, I like to take and use JB Bore Paste in the rifles.
50/50 mix of either Simple Green and water or Murphy's Oil Soap and water.............whichever spray bottle is closest at hand while I'm cleaning.
After shooting sabots, I also use a couple patches of either CVA's Sabot Shooter's Solvent or Acetone to remove any plastic residue that might have survived the brushing with the soap solutions.
Once that is patched dry - I hit it with a patch of denatured alcohol to dry everything well, then follow up with a patch of CLP for rust prevention.
After shooting sabots, I also use a couple patches of either CVA's Sabot Shooter's Solvent or Acetone to remove any plastic residue that might have survived the brushing with the soap solutions.
Once that is patched dry - I hit it with a patch of denatured alcohol to dry everything well, then follow up with a patch of CLP for rust prevention.
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First I pull the nipple and the clean out screw. Then I place breech end in piping hot water, mixed with Joy dishsoap. Jersey gloves are very helpful, as the barrel tends to get quite hot. The heat helps to evaporate moisture and prevent rusting. I run a double folded wet muslin patch up and down about six times. Next I wrap a muslin patch around a brass bore brush. Changing back to a patch, I drain the bore and squirt a little joy down the bore. Then, I run the new patch up and down another six or so times. Now I change the soapy water to clear. Another fresh patch, once more run the patch up and down another dozen or so times. Drain the bore, scrub and wipe down the bolster area. Run a couple of dry patches up and down the bore. I run a pipe cleaner through the nipple and clean out openings. Now I pull out the Thompson Center Bore Butter, heavily grease the patch and run it up and down the bore a dozen or so times. After that, I take the buttered patch and wipe down the exterior of the barrel. Then I turn my attention to the stock and lock. I rub beeswax into the wood and butter the exterior of the lock and lube the workings. Put it all back together. 
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boiling water.....then some more boiling water with a few more patches.....then some more boiling water with a bore brush and patches, then a little more boiling water and patch until dry....then soak her down good with bore butter. Did I mention that I prefer things that work effectively with simplicity and don't require chemical engineering degrees to understand?
Vic
Vic
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"Did I mention that I prefer things that work effectively "
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I have read numerous heartbreaking threads/posts about the "ineffectiveness" of Bore Butter as an interior bore rust protector. Even the makers of Bore Butter only offer rust-preventing guarantees on the barrel exterior... not interior. They only offer the word "inhibitor" for inside the bore. That simply means "discourage" (or)"No Guarantee"
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I have read numerous heartbreaking threads/posts about the "ineffectiveness" of Bore Butter as an interior bore rust protector. Even the makers of Bore Butter only offer rust-preventing guarantees on the barrel exterior... not interior. They only offer the word "inhibitor" for inside the bore. That simply means "discourage" (or)"No Guarantee"
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I love controversy. There is absolutely NO reason in the world to use boiling water to clean your front stuffer.
Unless of course you want to then that's the only reason you need.
Using boiling water will speed the evaporation of the water, but that's all it does. Boiling water does NOT break down fouling any better than cold water. Soap helps make water "wetter" and for that reason it makes water a little better solvent.
There are so many "home brewed" solvents and they all work well. The trick is to get the barrel clean then DRY , then oil the bore to prevent rust. In other words what ever slovent you're using has to come out. Dry the barrel of solvent, then use an alcohol patch to absorb any remaining moisture, dry again then oil.
Incidently when I was boiling my barrels (I don't anymore) I would dry them well then run Bore Butter, lots of it, down the hot barrel and NEVER , not once, had any corrosion. This is just my personal observation, but I believe Bore Butter does "season" the bore and makes clean up easier.
If the barrel is cleaned well, dried completely, Bore Butter will prevent rust as good as anything else.
Unless of course you want to then that's the only reason you need.
Using boiling water will speed the evaporation of the water, but that's all it does. Boiling water does NOT break down fouling any better than cold water. Soap helps make water "wetter" and for that reason it makes water a little better solvent.
There are so many "home brewed" solvents and they all work well. The trick is to get the barrel clean then DRY , then oil the bore to prevent rust. In other words what ever slovent you're using has to come out. Dry the barrel of solvent, then use an alcohol patch to absorb any remaining moisture, dry again then oil.
Incidently when I was boiling my barrels (I don't anymore) I would dry them well then run Bore Butter, lots of it, down the hot barrel and NEVER , not once, had any corrosion. This is just my personal observation, but I believe Bore Butter does "season" the bore and makes clean up easier.
If the barrel is cleaned well, dried completely, Bore Butter will prevent rust as good as anything else.
I was just curoius what everyone used and it seems that water is the most favorite method of cleaning. I just can not get to the point that water and firearms is a good mix and I can not bring myself to use water on my firearms. I have been using Lehigh Valley for a patch lube for years and I use T/C #13 cleaner after shooting. I plug the touch hole with a toothpick and squirt a good amount in the bore, then I put my thumb on the end and tilt the rifle back and forth till it has washed over the entire bore, then I set it aside and let it soak the breech. while that is brewing I clean my lock with the same thing, I squirt some on and use my wifes tooth brush and clean the lock off, dry it, and spray Rem-Oil on it. I then take the barrel and a patch on a jag and start it in the barrel, pull the tooth pick and push the gunk out the touch hole by ramming the patched rod down rather fast. Generally no more than 9 wet patches and another 5 or so dry ones and it is clean and dry, Spray Rem-Oil down the bore and a couple patches with oil and I have never had a rust problem, at all. The only reason I asked was to hear other ways, we never stop learning and some one may have a better way than what may work for me and I like easier I enjoy the posts. Thanks
I enjoy the posts. Thanks
That's the only reason I do it. To evaporate the water quickly. That, and to thin out the oils held in the metal's pores and nooks so they can be removed. Oils hold acids and can trap moisture underneath. Same principle as running your car's engine before changing the oil. Gets it to flow easier. I want everything out of a barrel when I clean it. I mix in Ivory Soap or Murphy's Oil Soap when I heat the water to help bind up the fouling and dirty oils.
I don't trust Natural Lube for extended (over a month) storage. I haven't had problems with Lehigh Valley Lube as a longer term anti-corrosion coating. For real protection I use CLP Breakfree.
As I've said before, the reason you never see anything written about how they cleaned their guns in the olden days is everyone did it their own way just as they do now. I have my own way which is completely different than all these different answers and after many many yrs. my bores are bright and shiney and I've never had any corrosion or
rust inside or outside. I clean the bore with windex(cheapest brand I can find)5 or 6 patches,dry it( 3 or 4 patches) then run a patch with wd40 down the bore then use that patch to wipe the outside metal parts. Done, only takes a few minutes. And actually a spray bottle of plain water works just about as good as the windex.
rust inside or outside. I clean the bore with windex(cheapest brand I can find)5 or 6 patches,dry it( 3 or 4 patches) then run a patch with wd40 down the bore then use that patch to wipe the outside metal parts. Done, only takes a few minutes. And actually a spray bottle of plain water works just about as good as the windex.
That's really strange...all I've EVER used is TC's Natural Lube 1000 for 15 years now in many, many muzzleloaders...inlines, sidelock percussions, and now flintlocks...and every one of them continues to be in as perfect condition as the day I got them.
Ever since I first saw a post like yours a few years ago, I got worried and immediately uncased every muzzleloader I had to check-wipe all the bores but they were fine...then relubed & recased them...
Ever since I first saw a post like yours a few years ago, I got worried and immediately uncased every muzzleloader I had to check-wipe all the bores but they were fine...then relubed & recased them...
Deadeye,
Here's a homebrew Windex type cleaner.
5 cups water
1 cup alcohol (Stove, solvent or isopropyl 91%. NOT rubbing)
1/2 cup ammonia (Parson's sudsy household)
2 tsp detergent (All)
I use this for cleaning the castor oil (and mud, grass stains, bark, blood, etc.) off my radio cotrol airplanes, bore cleaner where I can't boil water, spraying down before applying decals on cars, boats, etc. so it can be positioned and then the air bubbles squeegied out with a credit card, and basically for cleaning everything. I mix the above in a two liter plastic soda bottle. Costs about two bucks a gallon.
Here's a homebrew Windex type cleaner.
5 cups water
1 cup alcohol (Stove, solvent or isopropyl 91%. NOT rubbing)
1/2 cup ammonia (Parson's sudsy household)
2 tsp detergent (All)
I use this for cleaning the castor oil (and mud, grass stains, bark, blood, etc.) off my radio cotrol airplanes, bore cleaner where I can't boil water, spraying down before applying decals on cars, boats, etc. so it can be positioned and then the air bubbles squeegied out with a credit card, and basically for cleaning everything. I mix the above in a two liter plastic soda bottle. Costs about two bucks a gallon.
i use a hot water rinse so to say....with a patch on the ramrod untill all of the black is not coming out of the touch hole anymore in the water....dry the outside of the barrel with a paper towel....then use some brake cleaner in the touch hole till it drips out the muzzle real good to get the water evaporated out as the brake cleaner dries....then run a good gun oil on some patches down the bore....so far no problems with anything like rust or pitting....last time i did this was in jan after the last day of hunting and all the while working on my new stock and such....just looked in the bore after my rifle was done and put back together to make sure it clean for my pic i posted and there was no sign of anything but brightness with the flashlight....so i think anybodys way to do this that will work for them....well you know what i'm talking bout..............................bob
Well here goes. I will start out by saying I hope I do not offend any one. When I started shootin' BP a gun shop owner told me to use TC bore butter and I did and it work alright for a little while. The bore was always rusty every time I took it out unless I kept after it every couple of days. One day I went shootin' and everything was going ok when I noticed that my pattern was gettin' bigger. I cleaned it out and went home. The next time I shot, the pattern picked up where it left off and kept getting bigger until at 50 yds. I could not keep it on the paper. Then it went off paper at 25yds. I called T/C and they said to send them the rifle and they would look at it. In the mean time UPS lost my rifle for a month and could not find it. Finally it got to T/C they went over the whole rifle and sent it back to me stating that the rifle was fine. I called there repair shop and got to talk to the guy that worked on my rifle. When he asked me what I was using to lube patches and so on he told me to never put bore butter in any rifle again, he said that it will build up in the bore and that is what threw my accuracy off. T/C cleaned my rifle with some electric devise and when I got it back it shot and still shoots great. I always go to extremes to make sure my rifles are clean and I thought I was getting all of the foulings out but I must have been missing some that did not show up on a patch. Thats why I do not use any thing like that product. I have had really good success from my combination I am presently using and to any one who use's the natural lube, if it works for you thats great. Some of the guys I shoot with swear by it and will not use anything but that and I am glad it works for them.I am only going off my own experience with it. I hope that I did not offend anyone, that is just my experience with Bore Butter.
But you were only cleaning with T/C #13 at the end of the day. Maybe if you'd run some near-boiling soapy water down the bore it would have sluced out the lube build-up.
