Favorite lock lubes?

[tree]

since I recently acquired a flintlock I thought I would ask
the foum members what their favorite lubes for the lock
internals were. I'm thinking a good grease as opposed
to oil.

 

[Vaino]

I've used auto high temp front bearing grease for many years and the locks have functioned well w/ a minimum of wear. It's very "clingy" which is important for metal on metal surfaces.....Fred

 

[rafterob]

I just use oil because I clean my lock after each shooting session.

 

[Alden]

Oil with teflon.

 

[Billnpatti]

I used a high dollar gun grease (Pro-Gold) for many years but in the last several years and lots of reading, I have decided that grease of any kind is not good in a lock. The reasoning is that grease will more readily catch and hold fouling. While an oil will catch fouling, if it is applied lightly, the amount of fouling it will catch will be minimal. I am of the opinion that a lock should be cleaned every time the gun is cleaned. As long as the lock is kept clean, any good machine oil such even 3 in 1 will do a fine job. Break Free CLP is another good one. Just apply it sparingly to the working parts and a very light film on the non-working parts will keep it looking and working good.

Another product I am trying is Frog Lube. It is somewhere between a grease and an oil in consistency. It has worked wonderfully on my 1911 and other modern weapons and is showing promise as a lubricant for my muzzleloaders. But that is still in the trial stage but looking really good. I would not use Frog Lube in my muzzleloading bore simply because so far it is an outstanding lubricant and will make your bore too slick. Being too slick will make your bullet or patched ball start to move forward before the powder has built up a good breach pressure. The result is variation in some muzzle velocities. My present preference is to use the Frog Lube on the exterior of my rifles and as a lubricant on moving parts.

I have tried dry graphite in the working parts of the lock on one of my rifles and I am just not convinced that it is a good lubricant for a lock. The jury is out on that one, too.

 

[Trench]

I've been using 3-in-1 Oil.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Any good lube. I have used WD-40, CLP Break Free and Ballistol.
Greases are not generally reccomended because they hold bp fouling and are hard to clean out.

 

[wattlebuster]

Bear oil.

 

[larry wv]

3-in-1 Oil. Larry

 

[Ft. Jefferson]

I use a product called Tri-flow. Found at any auto parts outlet, it's basicly vaseline in a can. Spray a very light coat on and it penetrates every nook and cranny. Then the "carrier" evaporates leaving behind the vaseline. Wipe away the excess and your good to go.

 

[Snakebite]

WD-40 been good for me for a very long time.

 

[hanshi]

I've had (and used occasionally) for many years a spray can and small squeeze bottle of something called "TRI-FLON" which is teflon in a volatile carrier. It sprays or squeezes on and the carrier evaporates leaving behind a coating of teflon. I've used it on flint locks and it appears to be as good as anything else plus it is dry and won't collect fouling. Anyone use this?

 

[Stubert]

I used to use Triflon in my store, great stuff. That was alot of years ago, We're showing our age. I don't if if it's still made. I havn't seen it in years.

 

[jamesthomas]

I use a small squeeze bottle of oil made for fishing reels. I give the lock a spray with brake cleaner first, then hit it with the fishing reel oil.

 

[zerb]

I use Wilson Combat Ultima Lube II. Its low viscosity, stays where you put it, and is slicker than snot on a door knob.

 

[Dphar]

I use a grease, Amsoil water resistant boat trailer wheel bearing grease for high wear areas like the mainspring contact on a plain tumbler and non-roller frizzens. The rest gets 0w30 Amsoil motor oil, just a drop at the tumbler bearing points on the lockplate and bridle and the sear making sure the sear nose and full cock are lightly coated. This is free being dregs from the bottles when I do oil changes. Grease on sears and tumblers can gum up flys and such.
The next lube in line for sears and flys is G-96. Its mostly silicone and will work at even lower temps than the 0w30 will.
So far as getting fouling into the lock internals? If this is happening the gun is not properly assembled. Also BP fouling if cut off from the air is pretty much non-corrosive. So short term having some fouling in the oil/grease is not a big deal.

Dan

 

[Rifleman1776]

I used to use Triflon in my store, great stuff. That was alot of years ago, We're showing our age. I don't if if it's still made. I havn't seen it in years.

I haven't seen it in a long time either. Suspect off the market. But, CLP Break-Free seems to be very similar. I use that quite a bit.

 

[Rifleman1776]

G-96. Its mostly silicone and will work at even lower temps

That is wat the Rev. soldiers and original mountain men used. :wink: :rotf:

Sorry. Sometimes I can't help myself. :surrender:

 

[Dphar]

G-96. Its mostly silicone and will work at even lower temps

That is wat the Rev. soldiers and original mountain men used. :wink: :rotf:

Sorry. Sometimes I can't help myself. :surrender:

Ain't it heck?
If you find a good place to buy Sperm Whale oil for 10 bucks a gallon let me know. Its the best of the period for lubing fine mechanisms and for accurate loads as a patch lube. But hard to find. So I use what I can get.
I would also point out that the rifles I make don't have J. Dickert's name on them either.

Nor is the powder I shoot the same as for the 18th c. So we do what we can.

Dan

 

[hanshi]

Me neither. A shame, too.